Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2
03-11-2009, 08:26 AM
#856
Scott, I noticed that you and Walter are both running the 3 weight flywheel. What are the benefits over the 2 weight (WC) setup? I just rebuilt my clutch with 4 weights to try out, but I'm going to Kyosho tomorrow to pick up some parts, was thinking of getting the Sirio clutch to try out as well..
! I never really liked the new 2D clutch 
and had gone back to the 3D set-up prior to getting the Sirio/Capricorn power clutch for my Evo II. Can't see ever going back to the factory clutch at all. It simply allows my motor to spool up so much quicker no matter what motor I put it on. Regards,
Speyederjedi
03-11-2009, 09:47 AM
#857
On the setup sheet it lists the adjuster nut at 1.2mm, another novice question, but what is that?
The only thing I'm questioning now is if I should try a front diff, or leave the spool in. I'm making a few changes to the car that should help get the steering I'm looking for with the spool, but with all the tight corners on this layout I still think a diff might be needed.
03-11-2009, 10:02 AM
#858
The only thing I'm questioning now is if I should try a front diff, or leave the spool in. I'm making a few changes to the car that should help get the steering I'm looking for with the spool, but with all the tight corners on this layout I still think a diff might be needed.
that is the best way to figure it out...and go from there plus you need to have multiple front differential in your parts case, I have a one way, spool, and a diff in my case and I've race with all three...
03-11-2009, 10:08 AM
#860
The Sirio Power Clutch set-up Rocks! I never really liked the new 2D clutch and had gone back to the 3D set-up prior to getting the Sirio/Capricorn power clutch for my Evo II. Can't see ever going back to the factory clutch at all. It simply allows my motor to spool up so much quicker no matter what motor I put it on.
Regards,
Speyederjedi
! I never really liked the new 2D clutch and had gone back to the 3D set-up prior to getting the Sirio/Capricorn power clutch for my Evo II. Can't see ever going back to the factory clutch at all. It simply allows my motor to spool up so much quicker no matter what motor I put it on. Regards,
Speyederjedi
I also own a sirio power clutch and the clutch setup I use works just as well.
03-11-2009, 10:24 AM
#862
Hey Randy you should try out both spool & diff just too see how it feels that is the best way to figure it out...and go from there plus you need to have multiple front differential in your parts case, I have a one way, spool, and a diff in my case and I've race with all three...
that is the best way to figure it out...and go from there plus you need to have multiple front differential in your parts case, I have a one way, spool, and a diff in my case and I've race with all three...
My problem is that my car felt pretty good, but watching Mike Suager run, he had to be at least a second a lap faster out there, so I've still got a lot of work to do to figure out where all of that time is coming from.
03-11-2009, 10:45 AM
#864
FYI: Mike Swaugers speed comes from a lot more than just his car. There are a few reasons why he is champion.
03-11-2009, 04:05 PM
#865
Now I'm a bit more confused, lol.
I have tightened the centax nut to where the distance between the flywheel nut and the centax nut is roughly .4mm. Is this what you're referring to as the .4mm gap that you're suggesting? If so, then I'm lost again on what the 1.2mm gap is.
For the endplay, this is in reference to the assembled clutch assembly, correct? I'm thinking this is basically the "slack" in the clutchbell between the shoe and the thrust bearing? Right now I have mine set just to where it doesn't bind on the shoe.
I know Mike has a ton of experience, probably the best engine on the track, and so on, but I'd still like to figure out my car good enough to where I will at least have a shot at a win up there... Tons of novice questions, but I'm learning
I have tightened the centax nut to where the distance between the flywheel nut and the centax nut is roughly .4mm. Is this what you're referring to as the .4mm gap that you're suggesting? If so, then I'm lost again on what the 1.2mm gap is.
For the endplay, this is in reference to the assembled clutch assembly, correct? I'm thinking this is basically the "slack" in the clutchbell between the shoe and the thrust bearing? Right now I have mine set just to where it doesn't bind on the shoe.
I know Mike has a ton of experience, probably the best engine on the track, and so on, but I'd still like to figure out my car good enough to where I will at least have a shot at a win up there... Tons of novice questions, but I'm learning
03-11-2009, 04:24 PM
#866
Now I'm a bit more confused, lol.
I have tightened the centax nut to where the distance between the flywheel nut and the centax nut is roughly .4mm. Is this what you're referring to as the .4mm gap that you're suggesting? If so, then I'm lost again on what the 1.2mm gap is.
For the endplay, this is in reference to the assembled clutch assembly, correct? I'm thinking this is basically the "slack" in the clutchbell between the shoe and the thrust bearing? Right now I have mine set just to where it doesn't bind on the shoe.
I know Mike has a ton of experience, probably the best engine on the track, and so on, but I'd still like to figure out my car good enough to where I will at least have a shot at a win up there... Tons of novice questions, but I'm learning
I have tightened the centax nut to where the distance between the flywheel nut and the centax nut is roughly .4mm. Is this what you're referring to as the .4mm gap that you're suggesting? If so, then I'm lost again on what the 1.2mm gap is.
For the endplay, this is in reference to the assembled clutch assembly, correct? I'm thinking this is basically the "slack" in the clutchbell between the shoe and the thrust bearing? Right now I have mine set just to where it doesn't bind on the shoe.
I know Mike has a ton of experience, probably the best engine on the track, and so on, but I'd still like to figure out my car good enough to where I will at least have a shot at a win up there... Tons of novice questions, but I'm learning
Last edited by nitrodude; 03-11-2009 at 04:55 PM.
03-11-2009, 04:54 PM
#867
This might be helpful.
http://www.rccompetitionmag.com/inde...tup&Itemid=134
The 1.2mm gap he's talking about is when you tighten down the spring collar, measure the threads that are showing from the end of the flywheel nut(the one with threads on it) to the top of the spring collar. This is 1.2mm.
The 0.4mm is the gap from the clutch shoe to the bell housing. This is measured by taking out the inner bearing and shims if there are any. Assemble the outer bearing, thrust assembly and cap screw. Now move the bell back and forth. You need to shim after the thrust bearing so that this movement is 0.4mm with the screw tightened down.
For end play, you install shims on the shaft before you put the inner bearing on. Shim this until you can barely move the clutch bell back and forth with the screw tight. Make sure the bell spins freely with the shaft pointed up and down.
http://www.rccompetitionmag.com/inde...tup&Itemid=134
The 1.2mm gap he's talking about is when you tighten down the spring collar, measure the threads that are showing from the end of the flywheel nut(the one with threads on it) to the top of the spring collar. This is 1.2mm.
The 0.4mm is the gap from the clutch shoe to the bell housing. This is measured by taking out the inner bearing and shims if there are any. Assemble the outer bearing, thrust assembly and cap screw. Now move the bell back and forth. You need to shim after the thrust bearing so that this movement is 0.4mm with the screw tightened down.
For end play, you install shims on the shaft before you put the inner bearing on. Shim this until you can barely move the clutch bell back and forth with the screw tight. Make sure the bell spins freely with the shaft pointed up and down.
03-11-2009, 05:06 PM
#869
This might be helpful.
http://www.rccompetitionmag.com/inde...tup&Itemid=134
The 1.2mm gap he's talking about is when you tighten down the spring collar, measure the threads that are showing from the end of the flywheel nut(the one with threads on it) to the top of the spring collar. This is 1.2mm.
The 0.4mm is the gap from the clutch shoe to the bell housing. This is measured by taking out the inner bearing and shims if there are any. Assemble the outer bearing, thrust assembly and cap screw. Now move the bell back and forth. You need to shim after the thrust bearing so that this movement is 0.4mm with the screw tightened down.
For end play, you install shims on the shaft before you put the inner bearing on. Shim this until you can barely move the clutch bell back and forth with the screw tight. Make sure the bell spins freely with the shaft pointed up and down.
http://www.rccompetitionmag.com/inde...tup&Itemid=134
The 1.2mm gap he's talking about is when you tighten down the spring collar, measure the threads that are showing from the end of the flywheel nut(the one with threads on it) to the top of the spring collar. This is 1.2mm.
The 0.4mm is the gap from the clutch shoe to the bell housing. This is measured by taking out the inner bearing and shims if there are any. Assemble the outer bearing, thrust assembly and cap screw. Now move the bell back and forth. You need to shim after the thrust bearing so that this movement is 0.4mm with the screw tightened down.
For end play, you install shims on the shaft before you put the inner bearing on. Shim this until you can barely move the clutch bell back and forth with the screw tight. Make sure the bell spins freely with the shaft pointed up and down.
03-11-2009, 05:14 PM
#870
One other thing I want to clairfy regarding my setup sheet. This is regarding the rear camber link. My rear camber link is mounted into the hole marked number 2 and there is a 1mm shim between the camber link and the rear hub carrier.
Nitrodude and I rarely agree, but this time we do. There is nothing wrong with shooting to beat Mike, but definitely walk before you run. That isn't meant as an insult.
FYI: Mike is in contention anywhere in the world, not just at CP.
Nitrodude and I rarely agree, but this time we do. There is nothing wrong with shooting to beat Mike, but definitely walk before you run. That isn't meant as an insult.
FYI: Mike is in contention anywhere in the world, not just at CP.