Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I went through the manuals and their are a few new parts, but they are all minor revisions. The rear arms seem to just be a new material (B part #) and the tank now has a C part #, maybe to stop us from having to change the gaskets all the time. The rear tower is thicker, and then they cut the chassis giving the car a bit more flex I'm not sure why they cut a new top deck really after measuring the old one compared to the evo2, certainly not for the new tank and it seems expensive for something that didn't change anything real obvious.

I honestly still run the old car entirely with the laydown throttle servo for cg, and I'm still going through the aluminum 2nd gears so I won't be swapping over to the evolva steel gear setup until I run out. I personally like the 2mm offset wheels over the 0mm so I have no interest in the longer rear dogbones either but it does allow you to have a wider tire selection with 0mm offset but you can just buy the 2mm spaced axles too. Twister kyosho style comes in 0 and 2mm rear so I'm good either way.

So end of story, I would really only recommend the thicker rear shock tower because the evo wc's can break and then replace your 2 speed holder and shoe when that becomes a wear item as well as the fuel tank when you have problems with yours. The new chassis is nice, but I've machined an old chassis to the same dimensions and I've always cut out of the front brace in the chassis so this isn't really new to me.

I would recommend the kawahara aluminum ackerman where you can adjust it front/rear and the width with inserts because this is where a lot of steering feel comes from. I would also recommend a front spool (3racing, kyosho, whoever) over the oneway or a diff.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Longer rear arms should give you more rear grip. I believe they made the change to 0 offset to balance out the revised front end which should give you more steering. We're only talking tiny margins here but I think that was the motivation behing the "longer rear arm geometry". Gotta love the marketing spin though

Did you guys have any issues with the brake cam binding in the bulkhead? I sanded mine down a while ago but it still gets caught from time to time (i.e. my brakes get stuck on). I'm gonna pull it back out and coat it in grease, it's a massive PITA to get out though

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

Craig, I just rebuilt my entire car, no issues at all with the brake cam binding at all.

Regarding the adjustable rear anti-roll bar hitting the rear belt, I had this issue as well. Setting the rear belt to the tightest tension and putting 2mm shims under the rear anti roll bar head fixed it, it clears it now no problems.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I would do other things aside from setting the belt to the tightest tension. I always run the belts as loose as possible. Keeps the drivetrain more free. You would be amazed at how much difference it can make. Try it out for yourself.

You can grind a bit off the bottom of the sway bar to help clear the belt.

impalabob64

iTrader: (2)

Sup Scott Bobby Watson here .

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I agree with the belt theory, the more slack the better. they seem to last longer too. Just grind the blue mount on the bottom so it clears with plenty of room to spare. you can also lengthen the sway bar mounts so it puts the bar in a higher position initially.

The new arms are not longer, the pivot balls are just screwed out and they supplied a longer dog bone to compensate instead of putting the 2mm in the hex as you can do to run 0mm wheels with the old v1rrr parts before they went to 2mm wheels. This could be described as a roll center change, and I believe most chassis want the pivot points as far out as possible but I don't really know the reason for it. I prefer the 2mm wheels on almost every track I run at but I have tried 0mm with the hex spacer, and also the new dogbone and it's about the same to me except I get a bit less camber gain in the corners.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

Hey Bobby:

When are you coming to race out here in region 12. I can say one thing. The weather is usually better than where we just came from.

rojasl

Anybody can tell me.
How many distance do you have in the 2d clutch in clearence and adj nut?
With the stock spring

Thanks a lot

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I haven't run the 2d clutch in a while so this could be slightly off, but 0.5mm on the nut and clutch gap should be around 0.3mm for moderate traction. Back off the nut first to 0.3 if it his too hard and you have low traction, add more gap if it bogs the engine from having so much traction available.

rposey

I talked to Tommy Porfirio who participated at the Sedan Nationals and told me almost everyone with a Kyosho was running a gear diff in the front. He also mentioned that he and Chris both tried a spool in the front but lost too much steering and had to what on the cars to much. Tommy was running the new EVO 2 and told me the car was really balanced. (A Litttle more than the standard EVO). Chris ended up winning and Tommy had issues in his main.


-RPM Racing

Speyederjedi

iTrader: (1)

The manual calls for a 5x.5mm shim and 5x.1mm shim between the inner clutch bearing and clutch spring nut. This can differ just be sure the bell is not catching on the shoe, it needs to be free spinning. Another thing to look out for is making sure your spring nut does not back out. On my EVO 2 kit the flywheel nut/shaft did not have enough thread lock from the factory. My clutch spring nut backed out twice and in both instances caused failure of the thrust bearing. I put some thread lock on it and let it dry before placing the nut back on and since then have not had a re-occurance of the problem.

Regards,
Speyederjedi

MHarrison

iTrader: (6)

Rposey,
A Few Of Us Ran Spools in the front. My Car was Very Stable With Loads Of steering to Spare with the spool. I did Talk to Chris T. On Sat .I asked if he Liked the Diff or the Spool Better on these Track Conditions. His comment was, He wasn't sure .. the spool felt good But he felt the Diff was giving him the Braking he was looking for. But with Talent Like that .. He notices Alot more then Most do.

Speyederjedi

iTrader: (1)

I've had my Evo 2 for a bit over a month now and must say that it is much more balanced than the 1st RRR Evo. The rear of the car seems to follow the front much better and creates much more stability on and off power. I ran at the SWCS race in Houston a couple weeks ago and the car was great with the front spool. It was my first event with the kit and also the first time running with a spool. Won the B-Main by 3 or 4 laps and took the bump up to the A-main where I placed 7th. The car didn't seem to give up much steering and I was able to get on-throttle much sooner out of turns as compared to the front differential. The track here in San Antonio is much tighter and the spool still seems to work well inspite of this. I was surprised and initially thought I would need to go back to the diff but that hasn't been the case.
All in all I've been very pleased with the kit.

Regards,
Speyederjedi

jelayne

iTrader: (4)

Which version of the RRR did Chris T run with at the Nats?

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

That is interesting about the front diffs, I have never actually tried one but everyone that I know of that has says its basically a big track thing. ft. meyers is an 8th scale track with big sweeping corners and high speed braking sections that are not in a straight line which would hurt a spool car. The worlds track was the exact same story, numerous corners that you would be trailing the brakes through a slight bend going into a corner.

http://www.fmrccc.com/