30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

My prayers are with the Japanese people,it's time like these we should unite for a common cause.
Thank you very much Mika and good luck to you too.

I know I shouldn't say this but was considering another tourer,an NT1...but after analizing the battle of Chris Tosolini and Martin Hudy in the 2008 WC in Lisbon I concluded that both cars perform pretty much the same even with different engines so I'll build an Evo2+R4 hybrid or a LAB C-01 depending on available budget.

pelico

Hey guys, can someone give me the part # for the front universals that work with the diff and spool? Thanks.

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

hey curt hows it going? vzw219 for the front

pelico

Thanks Peter. Everything's good for the most part. Hoping to get in some racing this season.

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

i hope you do idon't know if i could go without it for too long, qualified 3 at the state race but pitted for too many people and should have worked on the car more, my shock end broke in a turn was going to change it but no time for all the help. oh well, will have to put it down next race to finish no 2 in the series talk to you soon peterb

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys let me warn you,during last weeks I went almost completely through RRR,RRR evo1 and 2,MTX4,NT1,LAB C-01,HK-1 and 733 threads looking for valuable information so I can make my RRR better.My personal (lenghty)view and mainly food for though so don't take this as the ultimate truth.
Part 1
Chassis/Upper deck:

Remember the impulse,the original R and the mtx-2?Well,they had skinny chassis with a opening around the front bulkhead just like nowadays,so why the RRR deviated from that concept?From my POV it was for precision on high traction situations.That precision had a flaw,it wasn't adjustable thats why the RRR saw 2 different chassis plates and 3 upper decks throughout it's live.2008 WC D. Ielasi was a surprise for me because he was using a RRR evo with a different upper deck with smaller openings around the servo saver post against the 2008 NT1 with all that grip built into the chassis and upper deck and it won with another RRR in second place!2010 WC the RRR evo2 team went with a 2 piece upper deck(or a upper deck plus a bulkhead brace) and now the R4's upper deck doesn't reach that far in the bulkhead so what conclusion do we come to?In my POV flex is good around the imaginary line crosses the axles but no good in a lengthwise manner,and btw why there's good flex?The suspension can't work that fast at the speeds our cars race!I'm looking at a Motonica P81 and it's Progressive Hardening System and comparing to the RRR I see some similarities,at the front the bulkhead is joined at the upper bumper assembly,bellow the front bulkhead there's a brace connecting both sides,the RRR's frontend has rigid written all over.On the back there's a bigger opening bellow the rear bulkhead and a normal chassis center.That's why I theorize the R4 is designed with todays medium traction/average speeds tracks with a tendency to be on the flexible side while the RRR needs more traction to show it's true colours,the evos 1 and 2 just slightly redefined that average traction.I mod my RRR upper bumper assembly so it doesn't reach the bulkhead,when weather permits i'll test and post the outcome of that mod.
(pheeeeeeew)

rcabj

iTrader: (1)

hello guys..need some responses/feedback...the track layout as seen in the attchment, long straight 170 ft - 180 ft. , mid to high traction and smooth flat surface....this are the setups i am thinking to start with..

-diff oil > fr 50k, rear 30 k
-shock oil > 550 fr & rear
-shock spring > medium fr & rear
-shock position > 2nd hole from bottom fr & rear
-droop> fr 1, rear 4
-track width > 199 fr, 200 rear
-roll center > top hole front, 2nd lowest for rear
-pinion 16/22
-spur 59/55
- considering either stratus or altis bodyshell

thanks...

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

RCabj looks a good starting setup,looks neutral to me.

Conclusion of part 1 Chassis:
After puting the chassis w/o fuel,body and PT it weights 1600gr,700gr at front axle and 900gr at the rear axle so it's a 43,75% f : 56,25% r.Seems rear heavy to me,will try to lighten the whole car and move weight around trying new weight bias.Will try also a full width front bumper.Stopped raining today tomorrow might go for a spin and post results.

Part 2 Drivetrain:
-Just focusing on the bad side,the weight.Rotational mass matters the most.So where's the culprit(s)?For me the front and rear diffs.While the front is just big the rear is not as small as it could be.R4 diffs are small but aren't interchangeable,they use a different bearing on the outside,a BRG014 (10x12x4 if not mistaken) and the RRR uses BRG008(12x18x4 again if not mistaken).

With those two handicaps i prefer on running the RRR stock as a training car until I can afford a new generation car.

GREGORY!

iTrader: (1)

you can use the rear diff.it sit on 12/18/4 bearings.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much for your reply Gregory,I have seen Pietsch MTX4 at the Euros and it had NT1's diffs at front,being the MTX4 uses the same bearings the RRR uses there's a good chance they'll fit into RRR too.
But then the RRR won't have the lowered diffs the R4 has and so on...But Shimo's car at the Worlds was very fast with the RRR diffs so I'm still undecided,should I go with the hollow shafts, lightweight crosspins and lightweight clutch bell or run stock 'till I can afford a R4?I can get those Kyosho option parts at a good price(VZW213 LW CB,VZW056 for the midlle shaft,VZW211 for the crosspins).Does Kyosho make a LW main shaft?I can't find...
Don't get me wrong,the RRR still is very competitive but the newer cars are much more hardcore.
Good racing to you all.
EDIT:Found VZW209 but it's titanium,i prefer a hollow one.

GREGORY!

iTrader: (1)

look,my car has titanium 3racing rear shaft,and kyosho hollow middle,i hadn't any problem with them.they are a lot lighter.also a km light bell and plate.the next step will be a rear R4 diff.i will go for the R4 car when the wc edition will be out.or maybe when the evo will be out.just my thought!

B.C.Ninja

For the front why not just buy some 10x18x4 bearings, 10mm for the R4 diff and the 18mm fits the RRR ring adjusters, just googled the bearing size and you can get them.

GREGORY!

iTrader: (1)

you can do this.but i think these bearings are expensive.
btw.front diff bearings in r4 are 10/15/4mm.

8lackflagracing

is the shimo tires o offset?

B.C.Ninja

just had my mate turn me up some flanged spacers since yes the price for a 10x18x4 bearing is exspensive, its a 10x12x4 spacer with a flange so that it will fit the R4 diffs but slip inside the RRR bearings, and has a slight flange on one end so they dont come out. Now all I have to do is wait till my country gets the spares available and I'm away laughing.