LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

i race at 2 tracks, first is

dusty.. small and tight and a few hair pins.

2nd is

is has fairly good track, big and sweepy.

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

for the big and sweepy you will like the solid but the small and tight you might do better with the diff with 80 or 100 thousand oil you can try the solid but the car can be unstable with heavy braking late in the turn.

blount

iTrader: (4)

+1

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

rear sway bar;

pulled the rear end apart, and im not sure if i have it on correct or not,

but when i lift one side up, the other side comes up with it (comes up same height).. and i cant push the other side down.. even with the shocks are attached, the other side comes up with it.. so its like they both move up at the same time?

while with the front, ill be able to hold the opposite side down while pulling it up.

Chickentrader

iTrader: (13)

That's the intention of the sway bar. You need to disconnect it if you want independent suspension. It is usually not a good idea to disconnect the front sway bar however; but there are many who run their cars without no rear sway bar; depending on which track and your own preferences. Rear sway bar disconnected is the preferred setup in my club, but not everyone agrees. Don't set the rear sway bar too stiff if you are trying it for the first time, it could make you loose rear grip.

Extract from HUDY Setup book: "Anti-roll bars are used to adjust the car’s side (lateral) traction. Anti-roll bars resist chassis roll and by doing so transfer wheel load from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. The stiffer the anti-roll bar, the more load is transferred from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. However, as the outside wheel is not able to convert all of the extra wheel load into extra grip, the sum of the grip of both wheels is actually reduced.
This changes the balance of the car to the other axle." As you can see, roll bars can make you loose grip.

Go to http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...2b8529ae6da15b, and download "HUDY Set-up Book" you will find more about setup options in there; click on "anti roll bar" on the left side menu. Or Google "radio control car swaybars" for more info. By the way; sway bar and anti roll bar is the same thing.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

anyone got a set up for a very dusty/tight track?

im installing a front diff, i cant seem to keep the rear end of the car to the ground... its like a slippery slide.

also went down from 30k to 20k in rear diff and seem to be getting heaps of understeer.. especially in the straight with a sweep.. always come out wide. so i might go back to 30k.

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

when asking for set suggestion please include complete set up info front and rear and shock oil and position, sway bar info and where the roll center is, shock springs etc. have to go race but will check back later

MikaR

remeber this; it's a very basic advice that works always: Shock positions: More laydown --> more side bite- Less laydown (more upwards) --> more forward bite

Also can try lifting the rear end slightly for increased weight transfer --> more traction at rear

Very basic stuff. Try 'em and let me know ok

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

i stuffed up the set up of my car. i thought each line on the setup station was 2deg, but it was 1deg. so everything was off. i resetted my car to;

was running a front one way, but installed a spool instead.. and will goto the diff once i get the output drives.

im running the RRR WC (laydown servo), with YBSLOW titanium drive chain parts, Titanium Pivot Balls, Titanium Screws, Evo.2 rear dogbones, Evo.2 shock internals, 3mm Rear Shock tower, Carbon Front Shock tower, Ceramic Bearings,

so i changed everything back to
front;
diff = front spool
shocks = 50wt (i think)
shock position = 3rd hole up
width = 200
downstop = 0
camber = 1deg in
toe = 1deg out
spring = gold
swaybar = soft
ride height = 5mm
tires = 40@60mm trued @ 0deg (flat)

rear;
diff = 20k
shocks = 50wt (i think)
shock position = middle
width = 200
downstop = 4
camber = 3deg in
toe = 2deg in
spring = black
sway bar = gold(2.3mm), but i might use the black(2.0mm) instead
ride height = 6mm
tires = 37@62mm trued @ 2deg.

Roll centre for front/rear is at B postion,

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I found the culprit so after dissembling the entire car down to bits adn checking everything i found that my chassis and motor mount are fine.

It was the stainless steel screws i used to mount the motor to the motor mount. They are not meant to be used there! They are too slippery and no amount of thread lock will keep them in when the car starts vibrating, there were so loose i could turn them with my fingers! It's a wonder I didn't strip both gears. They were also too long and backing out the mount screws from underneather when i tightened them down .

I changed to regular black steel and put shorter screws in it ... then of course it rained today so no racing for me .

G87z

iTrader: (7)

Good deal Tory! Now you will have no excuse when you get beat! lol Sure stinks there is no racing today!

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=7912

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

You aren't kidding ... on either front :-D.

I've been motor man all day. I finished checking out my Mule after about 5 tanks through it, i changed the head and am going to finish the break in in the car. I changed the rod in my nova and my picco today too. May actually change my servo out and finish up w/ switching to titanium pillow balls to cut the last 40 grams i'm over weight off the car. The down day actually came at a good time for me but i'd have much preferred to be on the track.

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

ran the rear setting and the car handled 1000x better, but still wish i had more grip around corners.

the spool also made a massive difference over the one way.

MikaR

great... what did you change? (other than the spool)

try softer tire compound, 35 shore maybe?