Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2
02-17-2010, 07:58 AM
#1906
Tech Apprentice
does anyone have a problem with me asking about the track in fort myers,Mr bosley seems to think so.....
02-17-2010, 11:33 AM
#1908
02-20-2010, 06:19 AM
#1909
I've seen some notes on weight before in this thread, but i'd like to ask one more time 
.
I've gotten my car to a good point reliability and maintenance wise and i was thinking of now going after weight. What would be your suggestions as the first place to go on a diet? I already have stainless screws and i don't know if i want to spend the $$$ for titanium screws ...
. I've gotten my car to a good point reliability and maintenance wise and i was thinking of now going after weight. What would be your suggestions as the first place to go on a diet? I already have stainless screws and i don't know if i want to spend the $$$ for titanium screws ...
02-20-2010, 10:44 AM
#1910
I've seen some notes on weight before in this thread, but i'd like to ask one more time .
I've gotten my car to a good point reliability and maintenance wise and i was thinking of now going after weight. What would be your suggestions as the first place to go on a diet? I already have stainless screws and i don't know if i want to spend the $$$ for titanium screws ...
. I've gotten my car to a good point reliability and maintenance wise and i was thinking of now going after weight. What would be your suggestions as the first place to go on a diet? I already have stainless screws and i don't know if i want to spend the $$$ for titanium screws ...
Titanium pivot balls (kyosho)
Titanium 2sp shaft (YBSLOW)
Titanium front shaft (YBSLOW)
Titanium screws (kyosho)
Smaller servox (Orion)
Titanium bevel shafts for the diff(s) (Kyosho)
Aluminum front spool if you run a spool (YBSLOW)
Titanium ball studs and ball ends (3-racing)
Titanium turnbuckles (Kyosho and 3-racing)
02-20-2010, 08:53 PM
#1911
There are lots of places you can substitute pieces to lower weight.
Titanium pivot balls (kyosho)
Titanium 2sp shaft (YBSLOW)
Titanium front shaft (YBSLOW)
Titanium screws (kyosho)
Smaller servox (Orion)
Titanium bevel shafts for the diff(s) (Kyosho)
Aluminum front spool if you run a spool (YBSLOW)
Titanium ball studs and ball ends (3-racing)
Titanium turnbuckles (Kyosho and 3-racing)
Titanium pivot balls (kyosho)
Titanium 2sp shaft (YBSLOW)
Titanium front shaft (YBSLOW)
Titanium screws (kyosho)
Smaller servox (Orion)
Titanium bevel shafts for the diff(s) (Kyosho)
Aluminum front spool if you run a spool (YBSLOW)
Titanium ball studs and ball ends (3-racing)
Titanium turnbuckles (Kyosho and 3-racing)
02-21-2010, 08:08 PM
#1912
a lot of that titanium can come from the hong kong sites that stock 3racing primarily. i personally wouldn't use the main drive shafts though. just use the hollow steel ones from kyosho.
the screw kits from 3racing are like $45 for the entire car, last i checked i had to buy a NT1 kit and it was pretty close. might want two to have a complete set plus a ton of spares.
be careful where you use titanium though, all bulkheads/shocks/camber links should be secured with steel and if you crash much at all then you should run the steel fronts (plus it gives the car more weight/steering so I run steel anyway)
i have trouble making 1725g with the brass ybslow plate (58g I believe) with nimh. 20g of that is from the servos and then some is from Twisters crazy light wheels, the rest is more complicated like the old brake system is way lighter and ditches that main metal pulley and small things like the internal titanium diff shafts.
the screw kits from 3racing are like $45 for the entire car, last i checked i had to buy a NT1 kit and it was pretty close. might want two to have a complete set plus a ton of spares.
be careful where you use titanium though, all bulkheads/shocks/camber links should be secured with steel and if you crash much at all then you should run the steel fronts (plus it gives the car more weight/steering so I run steel anyway)
i have trouble making 1725g with the brass ybslow plate (58g I believe) with nimh. 20g of that is from the servos and then some is from Twisters crazy light wheels, the rest is more complicated like the old brake system is way lighter and ditches that main metal pulley and small things like the internal titanium diff shafts.
02-22-2010, 11:28 AM
#1913
Another question, this may be a bit elementary but i figured i'd ask anyway.
Should i be using throttle to get the car to rotate in a corner or should the car rotate off throttle?
I ask because i have an evo and an evo 2, the evo 2 is stuck to the track like glue i mean tiny steering input and the car is turning already. The evo is more well balanced (imo) a little more mellow. I know this is all due to setup but I want to know how i should be setting up my evo 2 to handle and then how i should drive the car through the corner.
I'm getting a bit faster adn a bit better understanding the car and what i'm supposed to be doing. I've been watching some videos and i remember tossolini blipping the throttle through the corners, and watching shimo do the same. I usually just roll on and off the throttle like an electric car.
Should i be using throttle to get the car to rotate in a corner or should the car rotate off throttle?
I ask because i have an evo and an evo 2, the evo 2 is stuck to the track like glue i mean tiny steering input and the car is turning already. The evo is more well balanced (imo) a little more mellow. I know this is all due to setup but I want to know how i should be setting up my evo 2 to handle and then how i should drive the car through the corner.
I'm getting a bit faster adn a bit better understanding the car and what i'm supposed to be doing. I've been watching some videos and i remember tossolini blipping the throttle through the corners, and watching shimo do the same. I usually just roll on and off the throttle like an electric car.
02-22-2010, 01:01 PM
#1914
Another question, this may be a bit elementary but i figured i'd ask anyway.
Should i be using throttle to get the car to rotate in a corner or should the car rotate off throttle?
I ask because i have an evo and an evo 2, the evo 2 is stuck to the track like glue i mean tiny steering input and the car is turning already. The evo is more well balanced (imo) a little more mellow. I know this is all due to setup but I want to know how i should be setting up my evo 2 to handle and then how i should drive the car through the corner.
I'm getting a bit faster adn a bit better understanding the car and what i'm supposed to be doing. I've been watching some videos and i remember tossolini blipping the throttle through the corners, and watching shimo do the same. I usually just roll on and off the throttle like an electric car.
Should i be using throttle to get the car to rotate in a corner or should the car rotate off throttle?
I ask because i have an evo and an evo 2, the evo 2 is stuck to the track like glue i mean tiny steering input and the car is turning already. The evo is more well balanced (imo) a little more mellow. I know this is all due to setup but I want to know how i should be setting up my evo 2 to handle and then how i should drive the car through the corner.
I'm getting a bit faster adn a bit better understanding the car and what i'm supposed to be doing. I've been watching some videos and i remember tossolini blipping the throttle through the corners, and watching shimo do the same. I usually just roll on and off the throttle like an electric car.
Throttle blipping is something you have to do on larger corners, the engines just don't stay at a certain rpm easily like in electric and the clutches work differently. My local track is mostly 180's so it is almost always brake, late turn in, accelerate before the apex and let the car push out on the exit except for two corners where you have to keep the engine revved up for the next set of corners so it stays crisp so the clutch setup has to be right.
02-22-2010, 05:06 PM
#1915
Just like in a real car, a blend of both. Off throttle turn-in initiates the corner and you should ideally be nearing full power by the apex heading toward the exit.
Throttle blipping is something you have to do on larger corners, the engines just don't stay at a certain rpm easily like in electric and the clutches work differently. My local track is mostly 180's so it is almost always brake, late turn in, accelerate before the apex and let the car push out on the exit except for two corners where you have to keep the engine revved up for the next set of corners so it stays crisp so the clutch setup has to be right.
Throttle blipping is something you have to do on larger corners, the engines just don't stay at a certain rpm easily like in electric and the clutches work differently. My local track is mostly 180's so it is almost always brake, late turn in, accelerate before the apex and let the car push out on the exit except for two corners where you have to keep the engine revved up for the next set of corners so it stays crisp so the clutch setup has to be right.
. On a related note i weighed my cars both are 100grams over weight!! Gotta go on a diet!
02-22-2010, 05:30 PM
#1916
Another question, this may be a bit elementary but i figured i'd ask anyway.
Should i be using throttle to get the car to rotate in a corner or should the car rotate off throttle?
I ask because i have an evo and an evo 2, the evo 2 is stuck to the track like glue i mean tiny steering input and the car is turning already. The evo is more well balanced (imo) a little more mellow. I know this is all due to setup but I want to know how i should be setting up my evo 2 to handle and then how i should drive the car through the corner.
I'm getting a bit faster adn a bit better understanding the car and what i'm supposed to be doing. I've been watching some videos and i remember tossolini blipping the throttle through the corners, and watching shimo do the same. I usually just roll on and off the throttle like an electric car.
Should i be using throttle to get the car to rotate in a corner or should the car rotate off throttle?
I ask because i have an evo and an evo 2, the evo 2 is stuck to the track like glue i mean tiny steering input and the car is turning already. The evo is more well balanced (imo) a little more mellow. I know this is all due to setup but I want to know how i should be setting up my evo 2 to handle and then how i should drive the car through the corner.
I'm getting a bit faster adn a bit better understanding the car and what i'm supposed to be doing. I've been watching some videos and i remember tossolini blipping the throttle through the corners, and watching shimo do the same. I usually just roll on and off the throttle like an electric car.
02-27-2010, 04:56 AM
#1919
No, drag brake means that on idle the brakes are slightly "on" so the car will slow down when letting off throttle.
02-27-2010, 05:52 PM
#1920
drag brakes
hope all is well with you and Donna,
obviously the brakes are meant to stop the car. drag brakes if use correctly can actually make you a more consistant driver. if your drag brake is set so that at a certain point before a turn you release the throttle to the neutral position and it slows the car so no further breaking is needed to carry the turn, then the rest is in your timing of you releasing the throttle. you should set your breaks so you do have more breaking if you need it incase of accidents or if you go a little harder to a corner for a pass, also be careful not to set the drag to hard this will cause you to come up short in the corner and is harder to drive.
try it but don't give up to quickly, it does take some time to get use to it.