Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2
12-13-2009, 12:29 AM
#1816
Tech Rookie
evo 2 wc build
Finished my evo2 wc build a week ago, had it out this wkd, went good. Putting the diff in the front tho, not a fan of the one way.
tips for the build...
Don't glue anything in the diff on step 1. and be very careful with the oring that seals the diff case, 1st of mine leaked.
I did locktite any of the grab screws on the pulley or 2nd gear clutch till it was alll together and was happy with the spacing.
Be careful when bolting 1st gear spur gear on housing, mine had a wobble 1st time round.
Had a little play between the spur gears, which got shimed
Get the ally servo horn from rcmushroom, no grinding needed
Everything else went together pretty smoothly. Hope this helps with your build
tips for the build...
Don't glue anything in the diff on step 1. and be very careful with the oring that seals the diff case, 1st of mine leaked.
I did locktite any of the grab screws on the pulley or 2nd gear clutch till it was alll together and was happy with the spacing.
Be careful when bolting 1st gear spur gear on housing, mine had a wobble 1st time round.
Had a little play between the spur gears, which got shimed
Get the ally servo horn from rcmushroom, no grinding needed
Everything else went together pretty smoothly. Hope this helps with your build
12-13-2009, 12:58 AM
#1817
Welcome to this forum and congrats over a good buy.. just carefully follow the setup sheet when building it. It gives you a good starting point. Otherwise there shouldn't be any surprises or concerns. Many guys run a front spool instead of the kit supplied front oneway so you might consider that right from the start.. but it's no problem to go for one later on, and of course this depends on your local track. If it's a long fast track oneway maybe a good choice though.
e: Like said in the message above, no glueing. Regarding the rear diff make sure to tighten the screws well so it won't leak. Regarding the belts leave them slightly loose and adjustments on the "middle" position.
e: Like said in the message above, no glueing. Regarding the rear diff make sure to tighten the screws well so it won't leak. Regarding the belts leave them slightly loose and adjustments on the "middle" position.
Last edited by MikaR; 12-13-2009 at 01:36 AM.
12-14-2009, 04:15 PM
#1818
Tech Addict
Need some thing to protect my eyes whilst driving from wind etc...
I need to find some sort of specs that can prtotect my eyes from dirt, wind etc... they make my eyes water like a tap
Last summer my team went to race at the HPI Baja Endurance Race in Spain and i saw this guy wearing skieng goggles, at first i laughed at him but when i was up their driving in the wind he surely laughed at us as it was really bad.
Is their some sort of eye wear that can seal around the eye with good vision or will i have to get Skiing goggles?
Thanks and all the best
SP33D6 out
Last summer my team went to race at the HPI Baja Endurance Race in Spain and i saw this guy wearing skieng goggles, at first i laughed at him but when i was up their driving in the wind he surely laughed at us as it was really bad.
Is their some sort of eye wear that can seal around the eye with good vision or will i have to get Skiing goggles?
Thanks and all the best
SP33D6 out
12-15-2009, 07:40 AM
#1819
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Get your self a pair of $11 work-shop glasses
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/phot...473759,00.html
throw on a scarf with these $9 goggles and you'll really look the part
http://www.gemplers.com/product/1440...les-Clear-Lens
If you want to go all out.....$16 bucks
http://www.gemplers.com/product/450T...es-Tinted-Lens
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/phot...473759,00.html
throw on a scarf with these $9 goggles and you'll really look the part
http://www.gemplers.com/product/1440...les-Clear-Lens
If you want to go all out.....$16 bucks
http://www.gemplers.com/product/450T...es-Tinted-Lens
Last edited by Kyo83; 12-15-2009 at 07:50 AM.
12-15-2009, 08:09 AM
#1820
Could you give me a link to that servo horn?
Finished my evo2 wc build a week ago, had it out this wkd, went good. Putting the diff in the front tho, not a fan of the one way.
tips for the build...
Don't glue anything in the diff on step 1. and be very careful with the oring that seals the diff case, 1st of mine leaked.
I did locktite any of the grab screws on the pulley or 2nd gear clutch till it was alll together and was happy with the spacing.
Be careful when bolting 1st gear spur gear on housing, mine had a wobble 1st time round.
Had a little play between the spur gears, which got shimed
Get the ally servo horn from rcmushroom, no grinding needed
Everything else went together pretty smoothly. Hope this helps with your build
tips for the build...
Don't glue anything in the diff on step 1. and be very careful with the oring that seals the diff case, 1st of mine leaked.
I did locktite any of the grab screws on the pulley or 2nd gear clutch till it was alll together and was happy with the spacing.
Be careful when bolting 1st gear spur gear on housing, mine had a wobble 1st time round.
Had a little play between the spur gears, which got shimed
Get the ally servo horn from rcmushroom, no grinding needed
Everything else went together pretty smoothly. Hope this helps with your build
12-15-2009, 03:29 PM
#1821
Not saying you don't want the ally because I haven't used it and the site hes talking about is http://www.rc-mushroom.com
I run the longest servo horn I can and grind the top deck for leverage. it makes the steering feel more precise to me, but I like to use about 1/4 of the wheel travel in either direction for most of the track although my end points are set to full travel and not beyond so this is a setup related thing for rotation as well.
I run the longest servo horn I can and grind the top deck for leverage. it makes the steering feel more precise to me, but I like to use about 1/4 of the wheel travel in either direction for most of the track although my end points are set to full travel and not beyond so this is a setup related thing for rotation as well.
12-16-2009, 02:41 AM
#1822
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I run the longest servo horn I can and grind the top deck for leverage. it makes the steering feel more precise to me, but I like to use about 1/4 of the wheel travel in either direction for most of the track although my end points are set to full travel and not beyond so this is a setup related thing for rotation as well.
Regards!
m.
12-16-2009, 02:53 AM
#1823
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ไกล, 遠, jauh, 먼, ver, 遠い, lontano, بعيدا, xa
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Do yourself a favour go down to ur local hobby shop and get urself XRAY 336200 Steering Servo Horn Set. It is fit perfect and correct in height no marlakia grinding or sanding. XRAY part is light year ahead and strong. If you get alu servo horn u will end up kill the spile either from the horn or servo as both are alum.
12-16-2009, 07:21 AM
#1824
I run the KO horn on the highest hole possible, you have to grind the top deck for the forward motion of the servo arm from the under side (probably with it off)
The xray ones are good, but the plastic horns with the aluminium ring around the base are better for strength like the ones from ko, associated and others.
We have servo savers with a spring already, so there isn't much absorbed by the horn itself.
The xray ones are good, but the plastic horns with the aluminium ring around the base are better for strength like the ones from ko, associated and others.
We have servo savers with a spring already, so there isn't much absorbed by the horn itself.
12-16-2009, 05:21 PM
#1825
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ไกล, 遠, jauh, 먼, ver, 遠い, lontano, بعيدا, xa
Posts: 1,224
Trader Rating: 9 (91%+)
I run the KO horn on the highest hole possible, you have to grind the top deck for the forward motion of the servo arm from the under side (probably with it off)
The xray ones are good, but the plastic horns with the aluminium ring around the base are better for strength like the ones from ko, associated and others.
We have servo savers with a spring already, so there isn't much absorbed by the horn itself.
The xray ones are good, but the plastic horns with the aluminium ring around the base are better for strength like the ones from ko, associated and others.
We have servo savers with a spring already, so there isn't much absorbed by the horn itself.
12-17-2009, 02:40 AM
#1826
Hi guys,
I'm trying to build a front diff.
My LHS doesn't have the required VZ218, so he gave me the VZ219 instead. Will this fit on the RRR Evo WC?
Been looking for the info on this thread, but I can't find it.
Many thanks in advance for your reply.
I'm trying to build a front diff.
My LHS doesn't have the required VZ218, so he gave me the VZ219 instead. Will this fit on the RRR Evo WC?
Been looking for the info on this thread, but I can't find it.
Many thanks in advance for your reply.
12-17-2009, 02:53 AM
#1827
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ไกล, 遠, jauh, 먼, ver, 遠い, lontano, بعيدا, xa
Posts: 1,224
Trader Rating: 9 (91%+)
VZ219 is a lot shorter than VZ218, VZ219 is for real diff. So it wont fit.
12-17-2009, 07:22 AM
#1828
12-19-2009, 01:58 PM
#1829
Tx alot for the feedback guys!
So I have to return the part to my LHS then.
I had a race this weekend and had to run the oneway diff on a small technical track. That's the main reason I wanted to run a diff.
Luckyly, coming from electric on road, I manage to get a decent run although I had to be very carefull with the throttle and brake.
I think a diff would make the drive much easier.
And really curious on the difference in lap time it will make, comparing with one way diff.
So I have to return the part to my LHS then.
I had a race this weekend and had to run the oneway diff on a small technical track. That's the main reason I wanted to run a diff.
Luckyly, coming from electric on road, I manage to get a decent run although I had to be very carefull with the throttle and brake.
I think a diff would make the drive much easier.
And really curious on the difference in lap time it will make, comparing with one way diff.
12-19-2009, 02:58 PM
#1830