hi guys, anyone here have issues with the stock brake disc and pad?
i for one really need a drastic improvement in the braking zone. loose some precious timing during races due to failure to brake in the last possible moment. saw few guys replacing with optional disc and pad. any comments .thanks in advance
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SANWA-40.435mHz , 2.4G .
idm evo4 , 2617
O ' DONNEL 16%
KYOSHO RRR EVO2 , ALTIS
BLacK cRoW RaCiNg TeaM
hi guys, anyone here have issues with the stock brake disc and pad?
i for one really need a drastic improvement in the braking zone. loose some precious timing during races due to failure to brake in the last possible moment. saw few guys replacing with optional disc and pad. any comments .thanks in advance
I am with you on this one!
Stock brakes feel a bit inconsistant, could be the wheels size wearing down to a smaller diameter. kindly confirm.
hi guys, anyone here have issues with the stock brake disc and pad?
i for one really need a drastic improvement in the braking zone. loose some precious timing during races due to failure to brake in the last possible moment. saw few guys replacing with optional disc and pad. any comments .thanks in advance
Most of the higher level drivers run a steel disc and then either the 777 offroad brake pads, or app pad. I think the 777's are better personally. Both are more like a real cars brake pad and you don't have to glue them.
There are some vented, thick discs.. but I don't really think you need them because the heat goes into the pad, not the spinning disc as much.
3racing has the cheapest from the usual hongkong stores, I think you can get a kit for the RRR (or NT1, its about the same) for like $35-40.
Titanium is soft though, no matter who makes it. All of the brands strip unless you have a new tip and are careful. Don't install it on any of the major impact/stress areas like the shocks, the shock towers, motor mounts, and key mounting points for the top deck or they can sheer off.
Stock brakes feel a bit inconsistant, could be the wheels size wearing down to a smaller diameter. kindly confirm.
Thanks
well, about time we start to make some changes to these parts.,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley
Most of the higher level drivers run a steel disc and then either the 777 offroad brake pads, or app pad. I think the 777's are better personally. Both are more like a real cars brake pad and you don't have to glue them.
There are some vented, thick discs.. but I don't really think you need them because the heat goes into the pad, not the spinning disc as much.
thanks fyi.
__________________
SANWA-40.435mHz , 2.4G .
idm evo4 , 2617
O ' DONNEL 16%
KYOSHO RRR EVO2 , ALTIS
BLacK cRoW RaCiNg TeaM
3racing has the cheapest from the usual hongkong stores, I think you can get a kit for the RRR (or NT1, its about the same) for like $35-40.
Titanium is soft though, no matter who makes it. All of the brands strip unless you have a new tip and are careful. Don't install it on any of the major impact/stress areas like the shocks, the shock towers, motor mounts, and key mounting points for the top deck or they can sheer off.
I thought of buying Luntsford titanium screws. any reviews??
I thought of buying Luntsford titanium screws. any reviews??
the lunsford ti-screwz that they used to sell were second to none. the current ones look the same but they're way cheaper. the old ones used to be like $4 each but maybe titanium is getting easier in the market. the 3racing ones will do fine for $40 total, and the entire car worth of steel vs titanium was something like 20g, quite noticeable.
?just wonderin, when u go down to the track, in which order do most of u guys do or think would be best in getting your final setups.
these r not in order
?1. engine tuning and runtime
?2. car setups ( alignment,droop, shock, width, tyres, etc )
?3. 2 speeds engangement
?4. gearing selection
?5. cluth and centax adjustment
?6. practice your racing lines
please add if i miss out anything., thanks
__________________
SANWA-40.435mHz , 2.4G .
idm evo4 , 2617
O ' DONNEL 16%
KYOSHO RRR EVO2 , ALTIS
BLacK cRoW RaCiNg TeaM
anyone got a good basic/start setup point that i can use?
have no idea where to start?
the manual setup is really good, I barely tweak it
600 front/rear oil with middle blue springs
middle top shock positions front/rear
camber to match tire wear (-1 in the tire on the back and near flat on the front)
3 degrees of rear toe-in
0 to 0.5 degrees of toe-out in the front
lowest and longest rear camber link with 2mm shim under the upright side
front RC in the top hole
rear RC in the 2nd from bottom hole (down for more rear traction)
silver sway bar, not the blade type.
flat front blade bar
?just wonderin, when u go down to the track, in which order do most of u guys do or think would be best in getting your final setups.
these r not in order
?1. engine tuning and runtime
?2. car setups ( alignment,droop, shock, width, tyres, etc )
?3. 2 speeds engangement
?4. gearing selection
?5. cluth and centax adjustment
?6. practice your racing lines
please add if i miss out anything., thanks
#1 engine tune to at least something usable
#2 tires
#3 gearing, shift points and engine tune, they kind of go together
#4 clutch to get off the corner
#5 roll centers
#6 droop
#7 shock fluid or spring, very rarely changed for me.
I will usually play with the brakes a bit, not much though.
would running 0mm offset on the rear make a difference??
cos i got a rrr wc and i think its recommended to run 2mm offset on the rear.. but 0mm offset are easier to get and alot cheaper for me.
is there a adaptor that i can use so i can use 0mm offset rather than converting the whole rear
All you have to do to "convert" the rear end is unscrew the pillow balls and change the rear CVD's to the Evo 2 CVD.
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