charlesd

I searched the forums but could not find an answer to this.
I have the 502288 rear bulk head with the bottom pin on the inner hole. This is extremely fragile as i've been hit twice on the rear left side and this has broken at literally nothing. the outer hole seems much more solid and i've moved my pins there.
Now the problem is that i cannot get the car to 200mm. With the adjustment screws in all the way, the car is 204mm wide. If the holes for the pins are there, logically there's a way to get the car at 200mm width. Are there special parts that i need? By the way - i had to modify my rear bracket. I've ordered 502290.
any comments welcome.
thanks

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

Kfactory makes narrower hexes. Is there any space between the rear hub and the arm or is the screw bottoming out? If the screw is bottoming out you could cut the screw to a shorer length and that might help you out. When I switched to the LW king pins I had to cut them down in length to get the set up I was after.

charlesd

Hi,
the rear hubs are actually touching the bottom rear table. I believe if the hexes are smaller, the inner plastic of the tire will rub on the hub. (i think).

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...18-1&pageNum=6

This shows how the hubs work. I just looked at the difference between the old arms and the flying wing arms. The old arms are shorter shorter in length and were meant to be used with the old bulkheads that had only one hole which is the out side hole on the new bulkheads. The new bulkheads and flying wing arms came out at the same time to be used with the top mounted rear sway bar. The new bulkheads have both holes but were never really meant to be used with the outside holes, as you have found out. You can try and cut the rear arms down where the screw holes are to give you a little more clearance. With the -.75 hubs and the shorter arms you should be good to go. Make sure that you do both arms the same or you will end up with a unbalanced car.

Nitro-Racer*

also watch out your dogbone because it might(mine did several times) come off during running.

nazwenhome

iTrader: (33)

i was thinking of this mod too but i might shift the weakness to rear bracket instead. new kingpin position have to be drill close to the existing hole with an angle,am i right?

charlesd

I have cvd's in the rear but it's very close to the edge.
Anyone know where to find k1418-1? I looked online and the only places i could find them where in europe. I live in Canada so the shipping cost was out of whack.

I'm beginning to wonder if i can't make the bulkheads more solid by trying to make a metal bracket - any idea's?

BLKNOTCH

iTrader: (10)

I have a good idea for you charlie, I will show you at the track.

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

You could always go with the KFactory WC rear end. Metal bulkheads with roll center adjustment as well.

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

wolf hobbies has both K1418B and K1418T listed on their site.

charlesd

I put the car temporarily back to the inside pin because if i race like this I'll be disqualified. Sean, can't wait to see what your idea is.
I'll be checking wolf hobbies.

nazwenhome

iTrader: (33)

totally forgot about this parts, thanks

Mr_Poo

I believe you have to shorten the amount of thread on the pivot balls so you can screw them in further to use outside hole. Maybe the drive bone might be too long then?

Blis does this on his boys car on G4+ Evo

Thanxs