bt

Has any one had trouble tuning the new s3 piston and sleeve in the s1(mr12) my troubles seem a little familiar with the thread that is on rctech about the mt12 just flaming outby compuatic the piston and sleeve had no troubles fitting but the thing is having idling and your constantly chasing it worring about the timing and ideas would be appreciated

bt

maybe the s1 crankshaft is not compatible(timing specs) with the s3 p&s because after aweek it is a pain in the ass and not getting anywhere fast.any feed back is appreciated.

rrgt_kid

no its all compatible!

jeremy.

rrgt_kid

set it to these settings

bottom end: 1 1/8 from in

top end: flush with outer brass tubing

mind: have it set flush with outer carby barrel, but my s3 wont run properly at all unless i run it a little leaner than usual, remember every carby could be made different and each needle require a different setting than any other.

use this info below it is very help full.


Hot glowplug guarantees a better adjusting of the engine at low RPM while the cold glowplug gives a better performance at high RPM. If you have a cold glowplug on your engine and have difficultes to keep it regular at low RPM, we advise you to make the base speed a little higher. In case the engine goes out again, we advise you to replace the above mentioned glowplug with a cold one; these difficulties in the carburation aren't due to a bad running-in of the engine but to anomalous climatic and meteorological conditions (see high degree of humidity, altitude, low pressure, etc...).

Technical specifications of turbo glowplugs
Turbo glowplug was conceived to give to the engine higher performance and it is available in 8 versions: 4 hot and 4 cold.You find here with a description schedule that gives to the drivers the possibility to choose the suitable glowplug according to the situation he is operating.

here is a recomended novarossi turbo glow plug chart for temps and correct plugs:


Type Features Nitro % Increase
performance Outside
temperature
C.5 TC Hot with hot
filament 10-20% + 10% from 5°
to 10°
C.6 TC Hot with average
filament 10-20% + 8% from 5°
to 20°
C.7 TC Hot with cold
filament 20-30% + 6% More than
20°
C.8 TC Hot with very
cold filament 20-30% + 5% More than
20°
C.5 TF Cold with hot
filament 20-30% + 15% from 10°
to 20°
C.6 TF Cold with average
filament 20-30% + 13% More than
20°
C.7 TF Cold with cold
filament More than
20% + 12% More than
20°
C.8 TF Cold with very
cold filament More than
20% + 10% More than
30


jeremy

bt

so if it is compatible why the compromise on the tune 1 and a bit turns seems to be to lean

bt

as the motor originally did not run this lean on the bottom end thanks for your input

rrgt_kid

explain properly what the motor is doin???

jeremy

bt

the motor is pretty muchhas allthe same symptom as compuatic just dies at idle wont idle consistantly take glow plug out it stalls overly rich regardless of settings

bt

anybody lol

chookgb

iTrader: (29)

i have the jp s1 crank in my s3 and had the same problem until i too set the bottom to between 1-1/8 and 1-1/2 and i also added a 0.1mm shim (0.4mm in total) to the head which helps the engine stay in tune for longer periods even when the weather changes

compuatic

bt, lean out your low end and screw in your idle adjust screw till you get the engine to idle. yes the rpms will be high. rich out the top end and keep running laps while checking the temp and adjustind the high end as appropriate to have a reasonable temp. once that is figured out start closing your idle opening to decrease your idle rpm. if needed you may need to richen the low end or lean it. play it by ear and get help from someone you trust if needed. avoid playing with the mid range, it has much more affect than what most people think. i needed to lean mine a little because i could clearly tell it was bogging (rich) in the mid range. just a hair took care of it. this is assuming you have the same problem i had. keep in mind, it is very hard to advice for engine trouble when you dont have it in front of you. wish you luck!

Corse-R

The main differences between S1 & S3 versions of Novarossi engines are:

- Piston made of solid billet (not cast and machined).
- Different crank intake timing (larger and longer on the S3 crank).

Just a word of caution: the larger timing crank was stock on the S5 engines, but S3 engines got on all the engines made after 12/02 (All the engines made at 03 came with the newer crank).

How to assure at 95% if I have the newer crank? Easy. If you have a little scoop on the counterweight of the crank much probably will be the larger timing crank.

bt

Thanks to rrgtkid for his info,compuatic,chookgb,corse-r for their input i seem to have finally tuned the motor and the needle settings are roughly as rrgtkid said icouldnt believe they needed to be that lean on the bottom but it made a big difference and using the top to control temp has worked well.The national nova distributor also said that needle settings like that could be expected, so thanks again for the imput ican stop pulling my hair out.

jason102276

so corse-r is the s3 sleeve compatible with a mr-12 crank mine has a turbo scoop in the crank?

Corse-R

Yes, MR12 uses the same piston/sleeve of the RS12 so spare parts are readily available.

Hint and interesting news: The forthcoming Novarrosi engine (previously called Hexagon - Hexagon is the name for the new .21 model who substitutes to the trusty R1) whose definitive name is NS12 uses the same piston/sleeve from the actual engines, all the major changes are on the crank and the crankcase (we will see if they changed the front bearing, sometimes is quite leaky and a fountain of problems).

Aproximated launch date: Ends of May, first days of June. Will try to post some photos of them as I receive one unit.