Kyosho Evolva M3
06-21-2009, 03:11 PM
#556
just measured the chassis thicknesses
5.0mm thickest area frontward
3.5mm are the left and right sides closer to rear on the edge
3.0mm very edge centerline/rear
so if I were to gauge height at these specific areas i would just need to subtract mm accordingly.
I assuming that the left/right/front left/right/rear height should all be the same and not just on centerline?
06-21-2009, 03:28 PM
#557
have true your tires?
have you make the general adjustment.camper.toe,track etc?
have you make the general adjustment.camper.toe,track etc?
06-21-2009, 05:26 PM
#558
I am in the middle of dialing in the chassis and this is what I have finished so far (using Scott Kimbrow's 301 setup as a starting point):
Downstops, Ride height, skipped Droop, Track-Width and the rest will follow.
Did not true tires...they are all new Twister tires
06-21-2009, 08:03 PM
#559
I enjoyed your post - very detailed.
I do have some questions.
Q1) When you mention bottles...are you saying like a 500cc or greater fuel bottle?
Q2) 2-3 bottles on the bench...and then continue breaking-in in the car?
Q3) So is this the complete process of yours excluding all of Josh Cyrul's tutorial...or do I use a combination of both (yours and Josh Cyrul's) mixed together?
I just need to be sure thanks!
I do have some questions.
Q1) When you mention bottles...are you saying like a 500cc or greater fuel bottle?
Q2) 2-3 bottles on the bench...and then continue breaking-in in the car?
Q3) So is this the complete process of yours excluding all of Josh Cyrul's tutorial...or do I use a combination of both (yours and Josh Cyrul's) mixed together?
I just need to be sure thanks!
1) Yes 500cc plus 7 oz castor, ect, ect
2) Yes
3)I simply gave you some safety guidelines as you sound like you are sceptical or new. Josh's process is what I use as I said. These eight points are to compliment Josh's original break-in proceedure for a nice, safe, break-in.
Note that the use of castor will create a nice dark carmel color around your piston. This is a good thing. DO NOT POLISH THIS OFF YOUR PISTON. This carmel build0up will actually increase compression in the motor over time as it continues to build-up. Maxy's Fuel is famous for this. Most of us Maxy's Fuel guys love our black pistons.
Remember to use after-run at the end of use and burn off all the fuel in the motor... 5-10 drops in carb and on top of piston. Crank the motor over, put the plug back and kiss the car goodnight till next time.
Enjoy!
06-23-2009, 01:58 PM
#560
Hey JT:
1) Yes 500cc plus 7 oz castor, ect, ect
2) Yes
3)I simply gave you some safety guidelines as you sound like you are sceptical or new. Josh's process is what I use as I said. These eight points are to compliment Josh's original break-in proceedure for a nice, safe, break-in.
Note that the use of castor will create a nice dark carmel color around your piston. This is a good thing. DO NOT POLISH THIS OFF YOUR PISTON. This carmel build0up will actually increase compression in the motor over time as it continues to build-up. Maxy's Fuel is famous for this. Most of us Maxy's Fuel guys love our black pistons.
Remember to use after-run at the end of use and burn off all the fuel in the motor... 5-10 drops in carb and on top of piston. Crank the motor over, put the plug back and kiss the car goodnight till next time.
Enjoy!
1) Yes 500cc plus 7 oz castor, ect, ect
2) Yes
3)I simply gave you some safety guidelines as you sound like you are sceptical or new. Josh's process is what I use as I said. These eight points are to compliment Josh's original break-in proceedure for a nice, safe, break-in.
Note that the use of castor will create a nice dark carmel color around your piston. This is a good thing. DO NOT POLISH THIS OFF YOUR PISTON. This carmel build0up will actually increase compression in the motor over time as it continues to build-up. Maxy's Fuel is famous for this. Most of us Maxy's Fuel guys love our black pistons.
Remember to use after-run at the end of use and burn off all the fuel in the motor... 5-10 drops in carb and on top of piston. Crank the motor over, put the plug back and kiss the car goodnight till next time.
Enjoy!
Follow Up: somehow I was able to achieve equal ride height on both sides of the chassis. I had to really make sure that I adjusted each pair of shocks equally...I found that 1 360 degree turn on the shock adjuster would give me 1mm +/- of ride height. very cool.
Next question: As a note I am using Hudy's All-In-One Setup System.
To adjust Rear camber the setup-book suggests to use the setup stands, keep the rear shocks on and detach anti-roll bar...okay so I've done that...how in the world are you guys able to make any adjustments with that TYPE of turnbuckle with that little hole?? I am so used to the wrench style buckle...plus the springs and shocks really get in the way. I also read that any ride height and camber changes affect one another...how do you guys go about fighting that?
I know that was long etc., but thanks again for all the help and many more to come guys!
Asking questions is big factor when it comes to learning something new.
06-23-2009, 04:35 PM
#561
...cool thanks PaulieB....I'll remember not to freak out when I see a burned up piston lookalike
Follow Up: somehow I was able to achieve equal ride height on both sides of the chassis. I had to really make sure that I adjusted each pair of shocks equally...I found that 1 360 degree turn on the shock adjuster would give me 1mm +/- of ride height. very cool.
Next question: As a note I am using Hudy's All-In-One Setup System.
To adjust Rear camber the setup-book suggests to use the setup stands, keep the rear shocks on and detach anti-roll bar...okay so I've done that...how in the world are you guys able to make any adjustments with that TYPE of turnbuckle with that little hole?? I am so used to the wrench style buckle...plus the springs and shocks really get in the way. I also read that any ride height and camber changes affect one another...how do you guys go about fighting that?
I know that was long etc., but thanks again for all the help and many more to come guys!
Asking questions is big factor when it comes to learning something new.
Follow Up: somehow I was able to achieve equal ride height on both sides of the chassis. I had to really make sure that I adjusted each pair of shocks equally...I found that 1 360 degree turn on the shock adjuster would give me 1mm +/- of ride height. very cool.
Next question: As a note I am using Hudy's All-In-One Setup System.
To adjust Rear camber the setup-book suggests to use the setup stands, keep the rear shocks on and detach anti-roll bar...okay so I've done that...how in the world are you guys able to make any adjustments with that TYPE of turnbuckle with that little hole?? I am so used to the wrench style buckle...plus the springs and shocks really get in the way. I also read that any ride height and camber changes affect one another...how do you guys go about fighting that?
I know that was long etc., but thanks again for all the help and many more to come guys!
Asking questions is big factor when it comes to learning something new.
i will try to put a pic on . in the mean time try to use a thin body clip.
06-23-2009, 06:08 PM
#562
i made a tool for it ! used a muffler rod . bend the tip and sanded a tip on it. so it looks like a spring tool but not bend as much as the spring tool . and it work awesome with any hole type turn rods.
i will try to put a pic on . in the mean time try to use a thin body clip.
i will try to put a pic on . in the mean time try to use a thin body clip.
I had to freakin use a "L" shaped allen wrench, but it was hard to make adjustments because the shorter end was still too long to clear the shocks when rotating the buckles... I have never seen a tool sold for that particular turn buckle... is it even on the market? sure, i'd like to see pics if possible
any method to combat ride height vs camber conflicts respectively?
06-24-2009, 05:36 AM
#563
Tech Regular
[QUOTE=jt415gz;5976865]oh you made a tool for it, nice...
I had to freakin use a "L" shaped allen wrench, but it was hard to make adjustments because the shorter end was still too long to clear the shocks when rotating the buckles... I have never seen a tool sold for that particular turn buckle... is it even on the market? sure, i'd like to see pics if possible
Just wander down to your local hobby shop and grab some music wire from the K&S rack and bend your own adjust tool(s) - less than a buck
I had to freakin use a "L" shaped allen wrench, but it was hard to make adjustments because the shorter end was still too long to clear the shocks when rotating the buckles... I have never seen a tool sold for that particular turn buckle... is it even on the market? sure, i'd like to see pics if possible
Just wander down to your local hobby shop and grab some music wire from the K&S rack and bend your own adjust tool(s) - less than a buck
06-25-2009, 01:32 AM
#564
[QUOTE=Rick Davis;5979150]
haha never thought of that. I always learn something new!
I will take that "L" allen tool and cut off some of the tip until it works.
What is 'Epmire" Racing up to these days?
oh you made a tool for it, nice...
I had to freakin use a "L" shaped allen wrench, but it was hard to make adjustments because the shorter end was still too long to clear the shocks when rotating the buckles... I have never seen a tool sold for that particular turn buckle... is it even on the market? sure, i'd like to see pics if possible
Just wander down to your local hobby shop and grab some music wire from the K&S rack and bend your own adjust tool(s) - less than a buck
I had to freakin use a "L" shaped allen wrench, but it was hard to make adjustments because the shorter end was still too long to clear the shocks when rotating the buckles... I have never seen a tool sold for that particular turn buckle... is it even on the market? sure, i'd like to see pics if possible
Just wander down to your local hobby shop and grab some music wire from the K&S rack and bend your own adjust tool(s) - less than a buck
I will take that "L" allen tool and cut off some of the tip until it works.
What is 'Epmire" Racing up to these days?
06-25-2009, 06:03 AM
#565
Tech Master
[QUOTE=jt415gz;5983323]
Epmire Update:
Getting our new website ready to launch.
Looking forward to July 22nd TimeZone track race.
Working on ideas at NorCal Hobbies - lots of collaboration happening at that facility.
Corona consumption
Getting our new website ready to launch.
Looking forward to July 22nd TimeZone track race.
Working on ideas at NorCal Hobbies - lots of collaboration happening at that facility.
Corona consumption
06-26-2009, 03:12 PM
#566
clutch assembly
Regarding steps 38-39 in the M3 instruction manual, Nova Cordoba engine.
I tried the installation without the provided no. 208 washer and the flywheel was approx. 0.2mm-0.3mm away from making contact of the front engine bearing (very close) and was able to achieve up to 0.5mm clutchbell gap as recommended in the manual...would u say the flywheel is safe at that distance?
Then I thought the flywheel was too close for comfort, so I added the washer and now the flywheel has better clearance away from the front engine bearing... but with my luck I was no where able to achieve any clutchbell gap, thus having the entire clutchbell system bind up against the other parts without any free play.
How many of you ended up using that no. 208 washer that spaces between the collet and front engine bearing?
Note: I used no. 209, 200 and 199 each to achieve a gap of 0.5mm.
Anyone remember which combination of spacers you had to use?
http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...evolvaM3-m.pdf
ALSO anyone of you ended up grinding down some of the material off your engines' mounts to clear the rear belt?? Is this actually necessary.
I tried the installation without the provided no. 208 washer and the flywheel was approx. 0.2mm-0.3mm away from making contact of the front engine bearing (very close) and was able to achieve up to 0.5mm clutchbell gap as recommended in the manual...would u say the flywheel is safe at that distance?
Then I thought the flywheel was too close for comfort, so I added the washer and now the flywheel has better clearance away from the front engine bearing... but with my luck I was no where able to achieve any clutchbell gap, thus having the entire clutchbell system bind up against the other parts without any free play.
How many of you ended up using that no. 208 washer that spaces between the collet and front engine bearing?
Note: I used no. 209, 200 and 199 each to achieve a gap of 0.5mm.
Anyone remember which combination of spacers you had to use?
http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...evolvaM3-m.pdf
ALSO anyone of you ended up grinding down some of the material off your engines' mounts to clear the rear belt?? Is this actually necessary.
Last edited by jt415gz; 06-26-2009 at 03:14 PM. Reason: question
06-29-2009, 01:26 PM
#568
Tech Adept
06-29-2009, 06:14 PM
#569
Try this one. The 1/8 on/off road box.
http://www.rcdeal.com/modules/stores...wse.php?cat=13
http://www.rcdeal.com/modules/stores...wse.php?cat=13
06-29-2009, 07:38 PM
#570
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I've had nothing but good luck with this box. Its made by Kyosho, so you can't go wrong. Small flywheel means extra torque, car starts everytime. I even use it to start my inferno GT which has .28 motor on it. See if you can find someone other than direct from Kyosho though..those guys charge an arm and a leg.
http://www.shopkyosho.com/product/pa...R%20BOX%202.01
http://www.shopkyosho.com/product/pa...R%20BOX%202.01