occ

iTrader: (16)

Thanks Aaron, I will use your method to line up the Central body.

Also, has anyone played around with the front oneway & the front & rear axle heights?

In what situations would you use different heights?

aaron_buran

Both Toso and I moved our front axle from the middle position to high at the winter nats, it seemed to make it steer more. On that track the change was marginal.

NitroHead

Aaron,

With the front axles in the upper position, are you able to carry more speed through the tight and twisties? The car is great all around with superior high speed transitional ability with a basic setup. Time to start trying different setups...

'NOTHER QUESTION!

What is YOUR all around starting setup???

Thanks in advance.

aaron_buran

Have you tried my setup from the winternats? I don't think it get's any twistier than that. What track are you running at?

I used to have a starting setup, I really don't use one any more. When going to a new track I usually take my car to the track based on whatever I ran last. And considering that I have only raced my M3 once, I will likely take it just like it came off the track in Ft. Myer's. I will be at 301 in 2 weeks, based on what I saw there last year, I expect what I did at the winternats to have alot of oversteer. I expect to have to make it more driveable, longer wheelbase, heavier oil, different front shock position, longer upper links front and back, and probably change the front axle height back to normal (some combination of that).

The thing that makes 301 tough is that it has both high speed sweeping corners and 180's, which makes it difficult to get a perfect setup, you will have to give up some stability in the high speed stuff to get it trough the 180's, much like Toledo. Once I have a starting point for 301, that is where I will start again for the Capitol Classic.

2 more weeks!

NitroHead

A, I will be running the car at Floyd Bennet Field in Brooklyn first. Its a medium to small track like Ft. Myers except not so many 180's. It does have esses that need focusing on when going thru them. It's a really fun track.

Like you however, I'm trying to get an idea of a good starting point for 301 as well. In fact, I will see make it a point to be there when you are.
Giving it some thought it really makes sense to go with the longer wheelbase alla Rick Davis style. Im asking guys like Scott, Rick, Jim Adkins and you to get a good starting point

Here's my '07 achilles heel... At 301... After the sweeper... There's the right hander that goes into a left hand mini sweeper into a right hander bringing you right in front of the pits/drivers stand... WHEW! (got a chubby thinking about it) With my '05 I would NAIL that right hand section in front of the pits full throttle, but with my '07 I couldn't.

The other section I could nail with my '05 but not my '07 was just after that...
Once you negotiate the next right hander in front of the pits, there's the left hander that I would nail even with the little bump that would upset other manufacturers chassis's (is that even a word?) Any how, I know I had a bad setup with my '07 then because at the GLC Mr. Davis gave me some great advice that I didn't follow until after I got back home...

Here it is:
Short wheel base? You run a wide track width...
Long wheel base? You run a narrow track width...

I had the short WB with a narrow rear track width. (259) I changed it to 262 and what a difference! My '07 is super dialed now and very easy to drive fast.

BTW:Where is your winnernats setup? And what Empire bar are you running on your M3?

Thanks again Mr. Buran!

aaron_buran

With the car short, you should run it wider. 262 sounds correct with a SWB.

Are you running the zero degree steering blocks? If not, start there, that will help your high speed push.

Also try running more rear bar, that will also give you more steering by getting the car to rotate.

I am not running an empire bar, I don't have one yet that fits my M3. I ran the blade bar at Ft. Myer's, any where from 60 - 90 (straight up and down, alot of rear bar)

My winternats setup is on this thread, a few pages back.

NitroHead

Thanks Aaron, I will switch back to the zero degree blocks and feel her out.

BTW: Rick should have a batch of rear sway bar kits ready soon.

See you in two weeks, lunch is on me.

aaron_buran

The three versions you are reffering to represent the last 2 generations of the car. I see no reason to go with the M3, while the old cars were good, the new car provides many more tuning options that the old car does not have.

For a surface/track where you need max steering, I think that setup is pretty good. But keep in mind it was only based on one week at Ft. Myer's. As we run the car more, in the next 2 weeks, look for more information on this thread.

This is the best place for information, I would start be reading this thread, especially the last 3 - 4pages.

The only hop up that I think you need is the RRR brake pad set, which is mentioned. I also recommend partially tapping the plastic, it will save your wrist and make assembly / re-assembly much easier.

NitroHead

You must have the empire goodies, empirercracing.com covers everything. If your using a lipo rx pack go to ybslowinc.com for a brass battery tray.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Try Kamikaze Racing for the brass tray, their prizes are good.

http://kamikazetoysandhobbies.com/home.htm

rjr

I think Aaron meant to say "I see no reason NOT to go with the M3..."

aaron_buran

Uh., yeah... sorry didn't have my cup of coffee yet.

FITO

does anyone know if the serpent starter box can be used with the kyosho m3 and which bracket on the box fits. thanks

Rich Browne

No, every four days

occ

iTrader: (16)

With spares, I usually have a few sets of belts & gears for both clutch & gearbox in all sizes. A couple of bumpers & 1 set of front & rear bulk heads, all the arms & the rear body mount.

I guess the quantity spares kept depends on the budget & how quickly you can parts if you need to order.