Clete Landefeld

Ok guys... We need your advice.. we had our first big race this weekend and we had a great time... 3 tire companies were represented on the ofna DM spec... so that was pretty cool to see...
Here is the problem we need help with.. the front bearing is going bad pretty quick ... what we would like to do is add a bearing... so we need an exstension for the crank shaft for it to ride on.. Anybody done this, and can you share some part #s....

Also, how much end play do you recomend.. I ran almost a full mm..Too Much? share your thoughts..

YANMAN

iTrader: (41)

Part number for Ofna shim kit - OFNA 1/8 Clutch Bells Shim Kit
[OFN10099] get you 1 or 2 more of the small front bearing and you are good to go.

I shim the clutch with very little play. Just make sure it spins free with no binding and you are good to go.

Herrsavage

Which "on-road" engine for max $250 would be adviseable for a GT car - in my case a heavy 1/7 DM-1?.. Not racing, just want a screamer for the local track - which has a VERY long straight and sweeping curves rather than short, tight stuff..

Herrsavage

For ex:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ine-Turbo-Plug

MikaR

DM1 is heavy, hence I would pick up a race .28 or .24 at least
I think .21 is so and so, even if it is a Rally motor. You need lots of torque with your car.

Herrsavage

Yeah, I don't really know.. It's not a buggy though - it has a 2-speed, which in theory anyway maybe obviates the need for torque you would need in a 3-diff car??..

A Werks B6 with 2058 would be an alternative, or the Alpha A872.. With those I could at least run them in a buggy down the line.. They both work out to be a tad cheaper too..(The RB combo is at amain for about $305 or so with the discount, the B6 with 2058 at Tower for about $250 or so.. 'Bout the same price as the Alpha locally..)

I was just at the local track yesterday, with my DM-1 and Go GXR 5-port, and it was fading down the straight.. Great engine, but this straight is lllllooooooonnngggg... I'm actually not clear as to what I need more in this case - more gearing is clear, but will the muscle of more displacement bring the speed, or the higher revs of a smaller 21? The Go 5-port has plenty of torque IMO - in pretty much all areas..

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Have you tried a shorter pipe for more mid-high power. Also what gearing are you using. The biggest gear ratios for this car are pinion - 17/21 and spur - 48/44.

Herrsavage

The gearing is bone stock - 16-20 and whatever the spurs are.. Waiting on a shipment from the States with some 17-21 pinions.. I know I need to try new gearing.. But a guy at the track yesterday strapped his cellphone with GPS to my DM-1, and it only managed 75 kph, and he said a friend of his managed 100 with a bone stock IGT2.. Not sure if that's true - but still, I need a lot more speed for this track... I have a brand new Argus A52 and a Losi 454 here.. I guess what I'm wondering is where does the speed come from - muscle, or revs?(Remember seeing the video by AB Mods with the modded OS 28XZ and the Picco P9 - the Picco had a higher top speed.. So I've just been kind of assuming revs are key...) I assume it's a question of where the muscle comes in the powerband or something.. Assuming 17-21 CB gearing, what should be faster - the Argus, or the Losi? Or a Werks B6 or Alpha A872? I'm going to be running an Ascendancy clutch btw..

Jspeed

Dude, send "Tabushi" a pm, he's been running that big car for years. I'm sure he's got it figured out by now.

MikaR

That Alpha does not seem very expensive, 200eur here it seems.
We had a guy last time with DM1 running us with an equally priced Alpha, but orange head, a .21.
It was awfully sluggish (sorry to say), had no match to us, like IGT2 with Orion US Spec .21 or others. That guy is looking into RG cars now.. But we figured that if he stays with the DM1 it would need a .28 or similar to be competitive.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Any engine really ... even when right now i have the SPEC version, i used to race for 2+ years the 1/7 chassis, and my engines are the same ...

Options that i would consider on that budget and on fast query on amainhobbies.com :

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...y-Engine-Turbo

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Truggy-Engine

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Buggy-Engine

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Engine-Turbo

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ine-Turbo-Plug

And of course, GO Engines 7 and 5 ports (which i race) ...

all will do the job, go for what you know/like/have close ... and have fun

cya !

bobbyblaze

iTrader: (1)

you on point..with my GO Engine 7 port i am 100% satisfied when i race against picco p9 and nova flash ..the nova pretty quick at first but when i change to 1.1 clutch springs my GO was on it and my temps on the GO was 215-225 degrees and also switch from hot plug to medium plug funning byrons 25%

RussF

iTrader: (22)

I use the Ofna on road air filter. I think its the one you refer to. It looks like this



I think its the 38400 but the description at Tower sounds wrong so Im not sure if thats the number or not.

They come two to a pack so you have a spare. And they are cheap, small and dont block the cooling head as much as the bigger ones.

westside

Whats up fellas i have a question can somebody help me out what clutch setup gives you more torque hard shoe with hard springs or hard shoes with med springs or?

nitrodash

On a high bite track you will have more acceleration with a softer shoe and a firmer spring the softer shoe will have more bite on the clutch bell and the harder spring will allow the engine to rev slightly higher which will result in the shoe engaging the bell with more bite at a faster speed creating more punch or acceleration from my understanding