GT class--buggy-based on road!
#1801
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Amen JSpeed !!,
In my country the passion for GT Class started mid last year ... and we opted for starting with mono-brand class, being the model the OFNA 1/7 DM-ONE.
Even when the 1/8 conversions and SPEC 1/8 class are not allowed for now on races, we allow them to come by and test the chassis v/s the 1/7 one and the difference are very few so i think 2010 will be a open mix but with clear rules on tyres (only rubber) and engines (RTR's or US$ XXX limit)
cya,
In my country the passion for GT Class started mid last year ... and we opted for starting with mono-brand class, being the model the OFNA 1/7 DM-ONE.
Even when the 1/8 conversions and SPEC 1/8 class are not allowed for now on races, we allow them to come by and test the chassis v/s the 1/7 one and the difference are very few so i think 2010 will be a open mix but with clear rules on tyres (only rubber) and engines (RTR's or US$ XXX limit)
cya,
#1803
Patricio,
I think you’re headed in the right direction, es una idea muy bueno y solido.
Mike,
What can I say, there are more issues that have caused the decline in attendance in the Florida State Series “GT” class, economics is just one of them.
As a business man, you should be able to distance yourself from the actual causes and see why too.
I think you’re headed in the right direction, es una idea muy bueno y solido.
Mike,
What can I say, there are more issues that have caused the decline in attendance in the Florida State Series “GT” class, economics is just one of them.
As a business man, you should be able to distance yourself from the actual causes and see why too.
#1804
#1805
Mika pm
#1806
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Regards,
Speyederjedi
#1807
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Cool!, good to know someone has done it and that there are centax clutches which can be adapted to this class of car. After all, if we're talking economics and keeping costs down due to the economy, it's much cheaper to buy one good centax clutch setup than to be buying different springs and shoes every time you are looking for a different setup. IMO.
Regards,
Speyederjedi
Regards,
Speyederjedi
The following might help you out on ideas for installing a Centex Clutch setup. The picture below is a centex clutch setup in a DM-1. I will try and get more info regarding the Centex system, and when I do I will post here.
Originally Posted by dremelboy
this picture shows the mugen centax clutch we retrofitted in our kit, it did involve a bit of dremelling to the bottom of the chassis but from what we were told from the guys at ofna the newere chassis will already be made to accomodate a centax style clutch.
the mugen centax is used in conjunction with a kyosho evolva clutch bell and 21tooth evolva second gear, we then had to use 12mm shims to space the gears out approprietly but in the end i think it was a great fit and a piece that will only compliment the car.
DO NOT try modifying this is you are not comfortable with your dremel skills, it will take a bit of time but the end results are a better clutch in my opinion.
the mugen centax is used in conjunction with a kyosho evolva clutch bell and 21tooth evolva second gear, we then had to use 12mm shims to space the gears out approprietly but in the end i think it was a great fit and a piece that will only compliment the car.
DO NOT try modifying this is you are not comfortable with your dremel skills, it will take a bit of time but the end results are a better clutch in my opinion.
Originally Posted by dremelboy
hello steinr
the reason i chose to mix the kyosho and mugen centax clutches was because of spacing issues, the clutch bells between kyosho and mugen are not the same, there are distance dfferences and for our application in the DM1 kit the mugen clutch with kyosho bell and kyosho 2nd gear along with mugen first gear and some 12mm shims behiund it worked the best to get the perfect gear mesh.
having spoken with the guys at ofna they tell me the mugen red shoe seems to work the best in the kit, lasts the longest and hits the hardest, we are going to experiment with a yellow mugen shoe ourselves this weekend to see the results but will also try their recommendation.
what particular rally game kit do you have??? the spacing of the 2 speed gears is whats critical, you want to make sure the gears are in full contact with each other.
give me more info and we will see what we can put together for you
dremelboy
the reason i chose to mix the kyosho and mugen centax clutches was because of spacing issues, the clutch bells between kyosho and mugen are not the same, there are distance dfferences and for our application in the DM1 kit the mugen clutch with kyosho bell and kyosho 2nd gear along with mugen first gear and some 12mm shims behiund it worked the best to get the perfect gear mesh.
having spoken with the guys at ofna they tell me the mugen red shoe seems to work the best in the kit, lasts the longest and hits the hardest, we are going to experiment with a yellow mugen shoe ourselves this weekend to see the results but will also try their recommendation.
what particular rally game kit do you have??? the spacing of the 2 speed gears is whats critical, you want to make sure the gears are in full contact with each other.
give me more info and we will see what we can put together for you
dremelboy
Originally Posted by dremelboy
hi vadn1
i am using the stock gearing in the kit at the moment.
on the centax clutch i am using 17/21 for the gearing, i think thats 1 tooth up on both gears from what was stock from ofna
the reason for us using the taller gearing is because the track we will be running the kits on this weekend is huge and uses alot of vht.
after we had let michael 1 run the car yesterday we made a few more changes to the centax clutches end bell play and clutch shoe/ bell face gap and the car was on rails.
we are running the stock force .28 motor in our kit along with a JP3 pipe. we want to show people that you dont need a $500.00 nova based motor in there to go fast. the street price on those force .28 motors is between $130-150, we figure if you blow it up just buy another one.
i am using the stock gearing in the kit at the moment.
on the centax clutch i am using 17/21 for the gearing, i think thats 1 tooth up on both gears from what was stock from ofna
the reason for us using the taller gearing is because the track we will be running the kits on this weekend is huge and uses alot of vht.
after we had let michael 1 run the car yesterday we made a few more changes to the centax clutches end bell play and clutch shoe/ bell face gap and the car was on rails.
we are running the stock force .28 motor in our kit along with a JP3 pipe. we want to show people that you dont need a $500.00 nova based motor in there to go fast. the street price on those force .28 motors is between $130-150, we figure if you blow it up just buy another one.
#1808
Cool pics!
I bought one clutch last season; KC45 comes with two springs so I think I changed it once. Not that expensive and I'm still runing it.
I bought one clutch last season; KC45 comes with two springs so I think I changed it once. Not that expensive and I'm still runing it.
#1809
#1810
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
At that time I was running the kyosho with 150.00 LRP,now I'm running the DM1 spec with the stock engine and stock clutch out of the box it's a better car than kyosho,just cost to much to get the IGT to handle right and way too many changes which someone new would never get but works fine for seasoned drivers so much for a level playing field
#1811
Amen JSpeed !!,
In my country the passion for GT Class started mid last year ... and we opted for starting with mono-brand class, being the model the OFNA 1/7 DM-ONE.
Even when the 1/8 conversions and SPEC 1/8 class are not allowed for now on races, we allow them to come by and test the chassis v/s the 1/7 one and the difference are very few so i think 2010 will be a open mix but with clear rules on tyres (only rubber) and engines (RTR's or US$ XXX limit)
cya,
In my country the passion for GT Class started mid last year ... and we opted for starting with mono-brand class, being the model the OFNA 1/7 DM-ONE.
Even when the 1/8 conversions and SPEC 1/8 class are not allowed for now on races, we allow them to come by and test the chassis v/s the 1/7 one and the difference are very few so i think 2010 will be a open mix but with clear rules on tyres (only rubber) and engines (RTR's or US$ XXX limit)
cya,
Question: Why wait to 2010 to run mixed, when quote start "the difference are very few" quote end.
I am sure the 1/8 off road based on road GT guys don't want to wait 1 year more to race against "the guys from the club who always makes the rules in Chile". But what happen here in Chile is the same old story.
See you around in Chile
Regards Claus
#1812
JUST RACE
There is to much talk about what cars that should be excluded but how i see this is a fun class that should grow because of the price tag i've ran 1/10 scale for many years and it became a money pit with the engines so i brought a 1/7 scale dm-1 and fell in love with the car and that my choice but i don't see that car having an advantage over any other brand because at 301 raceway we race all brands of cars igt ,igt2 ,dm-1 ,ultra gtp and we have a blast so just imagine if at any race track mugen were the only 1/8 car to race that's not fair so i will never try to push my brand of choice down someone throat so come on people open up to all gt cars
#1813
There is to much talk about what cars that should be excluded but how i see this is a fun class that should grow because of the price tag i've ran 1/10 scale for many years and it became a money pit with the engines so i brought a 1/7 scale dm-1 and fell in love with the car and that my choice but i don't see that car having an advantage over any other brand because at 301 raceway we race all brands of cars igt ,igt2 ,dm-1 ,ultra gtp and we have a blast so just imagine if at any race track mugen were the only 1/8 car to race that's not fair so i will never try to push my brand of choice down someone throat so come on people open up to all gt cars
I agree.
The main thing we should all look at is keeping the GT class from getting out of hand with centax clutches, mod engines/exhausts, carbon fiber and custom machined chassis work that reduces weight.
All those items produce speed advantages that tip any balance of power between the racers and different brands; causing a money war against the true “spirit” of the GT Spec class concept.
#1814
Mike, good luck with your new car, hope it helps you
#1815
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Many of you are missing the original point of why this class came about. I was created as a lower cost entry into nitro racing that was not as serious as the established nitro classes. It is great that many of you have deep pockets to mod your cars to the max. But the "spec" class was made for the guy/kid that wants to get a nitro car without having to spend $1500+ to do it. When you guys go hog-wild with the mods and push the envelope, you don't see that you chase away the guys that can't afford to do what you are doing to keep up with you. This class started out as a test of setup and driving ability due to the cars basically being equal. Now, many of you are turning it into a money-pit class just like 200mm nitro and Lola-body 1/8th scale, which is what this class was "not" suppose to be. Just my $0.02 observation.
Juan
Juan