GT class--buggy-based on road!
10-15-2008, 10:48 AM
#1261
Guest
JLock, It would be great to get a hobby shop on board but I have not heard of any that are interested. I heard about a new Hobbytown right off of the toll road. I have not been by yet. Maybe we need to talk with him. Does he have the space. I think we need to find a place that looks like it will work and talk to the owners. Do you have any ideas? Should we talk with the Hobbytown owner in Dallas? RCRCNT is just too far for a Sunday afternoon or Saturday morning race.
10-15-2008, 09:36 PM
#1262
JLock, It would be great to get a hobby shop on board but I have not heard of any that are interested. I heard about a new Hobbytown right off of the toll road. I have not been by yet. Maybe we need to talk with him. Does he have the space. I think we need to find a place that looks like it will work and talk to the owners. Do you have any ideas? Should we talk with the Hobbytown owner in Dallas? RCRCNT is just too far for a Sunday afternoon or Saturday morning race.
The new hobby store is called RC Fever Hobbies and it is a full service hobby store (planes, boats, helis, cars, etc). I am going to try to check him out tomorrow after work and talk to the owner or find out who he is and try to start a dialog. I have a few thoughts floating in my dome but we need to get together and maybe find a few more locals that we can all get together, bounce some ideas off each other, and put some sort of proposal together so we can approach some of these people to show that we are serious about racing and supporting a racing program.
Juan
10-16-2008, 03:35 AM
#1263
Ok, did my mods and the car is now race ready.
With alum shocks and swaybars it weights around the same or slightly less than the stock car.
During re-build ..
10-16-2008, 09:02 AM
#1264
10-16-2008, 11:18 AM
#1265
GT2 car gears
So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now. I know the mesh of the motor is right, could it be a rock or something that may have binded into the gear mesh opening of the chassis? I am planning on devising a lexan shield for that next week.
Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
10-16-2008, 11:18 AM
#1266
Solara,
What I mean by LeMans-style is have the Kyosho IGT as a class, the IGT2 and a class, the OFNA DM-1 Spec as a class, the Ultra/Ultra II as a class, race them all together but score them in their separate classes. I am not meaning having 200mm touring cars, 1/8th scale Lola-body cars, etc mixed in and all on the track at the same time. My idea is strictly concerning the 1/8th scale buggy-style touring cars from the different manufacturers as not to exclude anyone from racing that may not either have the Kyosho car or want to purchase the Kyosho car (someone that is more comfortable with another brand in the same class). My idea is having them all being box-stock with tire, radio, shock/diff oil changes only (like currently run in many places). It could be the Spec LeMans class. Like I suggested, it is just an idea.
What I mean by LeMans-style is have the Kyosho IGT as a class, the IGT2 and a class, the OFNA DM-1 Spec as a class, the Ultra/Ultra II as a class, race them all together but score them in their separate classes. I am not meaning having 200mm touring cars, 1/8th scale Lola-body cars, etc mixed in and all on the track at the same time. My idea is strictly concerning the 1/8th scale buggy-style touring cars from the different manufacturers as not to exclude anyone from racing that may not either have the Kyosho car or want to purchase the Kyosho car (someone that is more comfortable with another brand in the same class). My idea is having them all being box-stock with tire, radio, shock/diff oil changes only (like currently run in many places). It could be the Spec LeMans class. Like I suggested, it is just an idea.
Not to mention how difficult to setup 1 race with all these different brand and how boring to see there are 2 cars for IGT1, 3 cars for IGT2 class, 1 car for Dm1-spec car and 2 cars for GTP II class...
Just race them all together with SPEC RTR engine $150-180 caps, any rubber tires, any TC or Rally or non-lola type body and race 10-15 cars heads on....NOW, that is fun.
10-16-2008, 11:30 AM
#1267
So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now. I know the mesh of the motor is right, could it be a rock or something that may have binded into the gear mesh opening of the chassis? I am planning on devising a lexan shield for that next week.
Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
I will be racing this weekend and will take a look at what part numbers they are using. I recently bought my IGT2 but have not started it yet.
Will let you know.
10-16-2008, 12:13 PM
#1268
Actually, I did not misunderstood your idea...all these car that you have mentioned (Kyosho IGT1 IGT2, GTP1 GTP2, DM1-spec....) they are EXACTLY the same thing...why seperate them? Seperate them because the IGT2 is 1" longer is just a waste of time. Classes that need to seperate because they ran different engine or tires or bodies...exactly like the real LeMan series...those cars are all different. Thats why they need to be different class.
Not to mention how difficult to setup 1 race with all these different brand and how boring to see there are 2 cars for IGT1, 3 cars for IGT2 class, 1 car for Dm1-spec car and 2 cars for GTP II class...
Just race them all together with SPEC RTR engine $150-180 caps, any rubber tires, any TC or Rally or non-lola type body and race 10-15 cars heads on....NOW, that is fun.
Not to mention how difficult to setup 1 race with all these different brand and how boring to see there are 2 cars for IGT1, 3 cars for IGT2 class, 1 car for Dm1-spec car and 2 cars for GTP II class...
Just race them all together with SPEC RTR engine $150-180 caps, any rubber tires, any TC or Rally or non-lola type body and race 10-15 cars heads on....NOW, that is fun.
10-16-2008, 12:46 PM
#1269
Thanks Jeff! I'm sure I will. It's so beautiful just to look at.
I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now. I know the mesh of the motor is right, could it be a rock or something that may have binded into the gear mesh opening of the chassis? I am planning on devising a lexan shield for that next week.
Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
10-16-2008, 01:14 PM
#1270
I bet that was it. It was shifting late and we were doing very high speed runs at Road Atlanta. I still think the concept of this gear system is a bit weak. Needs a harder compound or metal. Besides selling more parts, I wonder if there is any reason it is not metal.
Thanks Jeff! I'm sure I will. It's so beautiful just to look at.
I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
10-16-2008, 01:57 PM
#1271
Plastic spur gears work fine, all the 1/8th on road cars use plastic spur with steel or aluminum pinion gears. I have had gears last a long time on my GT car, and other times I have had gears last a few minutes. Besides the obvious problems, poor mesh, rocks or debris, or possibly a late shift point, check your clutch. If your clutch overheats it might pass the heat on to the spurs and assist in them stripping out.
10-16-2008, 03:30 PM
#1272
Since it has just started out here everyone brought something different to the table as in engine but kept the chassis work the same I had a .28 Picco but had problems with so I took my .21 out of my buggy and ran smoother it just didn't have the spank like the .28 and on Jeffrey Lins car he had a Force.28 RTR engine that was good all around the track another driver had a Jammin JPX.21 that was fast.We know in the furture that if this gets any bigger that will split into spec and open but we like the open. To have the speed like a sedan wiht a bigger size in mind looks spectacular and is a whole lot of fun, we're not trying to blow it up into big dollars which the tire factor helped out alot compared to 1/10 sedan racing and buying big priced engines(You can purchase a Picco.28 engine around $220.00 and a .21 for about $250.00and a Force engines sells for about $150.00)and my engines run on standard plugs. And Jeffrey won the race with a Force engine, so only thing I would worry about rules is to have a touring style body with wing attached to the body not the car.And for pipes that was across the table to but I had a Jp-3
10-16-2008, 04:34 PM
#1273
Tech Addict
iTrader: (43)
metal gears
Thanks Jeff! I'm sure I will. It's so beautiful just to look at.
I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...oducts_id=9834
10-16-2008, 10:13 PM
#1274
Thanks for the tip. I've seen several conversions but I still like the stock 2-speed best. It's lightweight and therefore has little rotational mass. It's also simple to maintain. If keep this one working I don't see a need for anything else. After the pin wears out inside the 2nd gear it's easy to replace with a slightly bigger one in dia (cut from a drill bit), then it lasts usually very long.
10-16-2008, 11:41 PM
#1275
Tech Rookie
That is again one wrong place where Kyosho has cut costs...