GT class--buggy-based on road!
10-17-2008, 10:58 AM
#1291
I agree if the engines start going any faster than the pull start mills that come with the cars then I will sell mine as well. I wish the basic rules would be adopted.
RTR level engines
rubber tires
minimal hop ups to help with durability
Please Roar come up with a rule set that makes a class for the ofna / kyosho cars that 1/8th scale, exlcuding the original 1/7th scale dm1. That makes a budget class with a list of available motors that are in production and have a street price less than $200
No centax, no foams, no engine mods, stock exhaust
basic upgrades and mods only, things like servos, linkage, gearing and shocks / springs should be the main things they can alter.
my .02
RTR level engines
rubber tires
minimal hop ups to help with durability
Please Roar come up with a rule set that makes a class for the ofna / kyosho cars that 1/8th scale, exlcuding the original 1/7th scale dm1. That makes a budget class with a list of available motors that are in production and have a street price less than $200
No centax, no foams, no engine mods, stock exhaust
basic upgrades and mods only, things like servos, linkage, gearing and shocks / springs should be the main things they can alter.
my .02
10-17-2008, 02:25 PM
#1293
Guest
Wow. This thread is getting hot. JLock, Let me know if I can help, I will start beating the guys I know. If we build it they may come? I heard Joe gave away his track and trailer. There is a new asphalt parking lot in Richardson at the Lowes that I hear would be perfect.
Will
Will
10-17-2008, 04:32 PM
#1294
Solara, Frank & everyone else,
Over a year ago...
I thought it was a solid idea....
All of a sudden I became the “bad” guy....
The concept of the “GT” class was very simple. Buy an RTR GT “Buggy Based” car, make changes to electronics, set-up, oils and use the RTR engine/pipe combo’s that came with the cars. A racer was able to use optional factory parts available for their RTR car for better durability and to change set-up if needed.
Now look at what we have today, over a year after the fact, guys are swapping engines/pipes, running foam tires, pro level drivers showing up at races and taking on “average Joe” drivers to promote their chassis as a better one than the IGT (which that started it all) at tracks like Leisure Hours and others across America.
All I want to do is have fun & race....
I do wish to give a big thanks to the crew at Kyosho America for believing in the “GT Spec” class concept & supporting it from the start when no one else wanted to.
See you at the races
Over a year ago...
I thought it was a solid idea....
All of a sudden I became the “bad” guy....
The concept of the “GT” class was very simple. Buy an RTR GT “Buggy Based” car, make changes to electronics, set-up, oils and use the RTR engine/pipe combo’s that came with the cars. A racer was able to use optional factory parts available for their RTR car for better durability and to change set-up if needed.
Now look at what we have today, over a year after the fact, guys are swapping engines/pipes, running foam tires, pro level drivers showing up at races and taking on “average Joe” drivers to promote their chassis as a better one than the IGT (which that started it all) at tracks like Leisure Hours and others across America.
All I want to do is have fun & race....
I do wish to give a big thanks to the crew at Kyosho America for believing in the “GT Spec” class concept & supporting it from the start when no one else wanted to.
See you at the races
Jeff,
I am not trying to make you the bad guy the post was a rib... I thank you for all the help you have provided to me and fellow racers.
He just asked about optional parts and if they were allowed. And iwhat I thought was a funny way I posted a reply
The ONLY thing I have seen was the use of HPI transmission parts which ARE NOT factory optional. Other than that I have no problem using any FACTORY part as an upgrade for the Spec GT class.
Once again please accept my appology if you felt like I was making you the bad guy.
Frank
10-17-2008, 05:37 PM
#1295
Another thing to consider with the stripping of gears with the IGT especially is the chassis flex, the sport chassis isn't the stiffest by any means, neither are Kyosho buggy "racing" chassis's. Twisting of the whole car in a chicane or jumping a corner marker can tighten and loosen gear mesh, causing wear, which leads to failure. Many TC and Lola cars have additional braces to prevent this. There are chassis stiffeners available for many of the offroad buggies to reduce this. Something to consider.
10-18-2008, 02:18 AM
#1296
Jspeed, how much weights your Audi? Mine is 3625gr ready to run tank empty.
Last edited by MikaR; 10-18-2008 at 05:55 AM.
10-18-2008, 11:40 AM
#1297
10-18-2008, 12:58 PM
#1298
This is from page 3 of this thread:
"1. Body must be cut on the manufacturer line.
2. You may cut the rear of the body no higher than 1 1/8th” when sitting flat on a surface.
3. Side window may be cut open for fueling.
4. Front window may be cut, but no larger than 3”x3”.
5. Rear window may be cut, but no larger than 2”x2”.
6. You may cut a hole for the glow plug ignitor.
7. Fueling access may be cut but may not connect with other holes."
The size of the rear window was questioned and maximum was changed to not to exceed the window area of the molded rear window. I have no idea where ROAR is headed with this class. There is reference that they are working on it and according to OFNA packaging (remember the picvot ball suspension) this is an already growing ROAR class (I just had to throw one last dig in
).
"1. Body must be cut on the manufacturer line.
2. You may cut the rear of the body no higher than 1 1/8th” when sitting flat on a surface.
3. Side window may be cut open for fueling.
4. Front window may be cut, but no larger than 3”x3”.
5. Rear window may be cut, but no larger than 2”x2”.
6. You may cut a hole for the glow plug ignitor.
7. Fueling access may be cut but may not connect with other holes."
The size of the rear window was questioned and maximum was changed to not to exceed the window area of the molded rear window. I have no idea where ROAR is headed with this class. There is reference that they are working on it and according to OFNA packaging (remember the picvot ball suspension) this is an already growing ROAR class (I just had to throw one last dig in
).
10-18-2008, 03:12 PM
#1299
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
The rules posted above are for the RC Pro series only.
For The Midwest Series, the rules are a little easier to abide by. The rules for '09' will be more defined but still fairly simple. 2 1/2" is a pretty sensible front windshield cutout size, there will be NO restriction on rear window cut out.
Standard rear engine plate is legal. I am not in favor of requiring that a pull start be left on the engine. During all my years as a store owner, I have always recomended that buyers budget a starter box asap. Pull starts have driven more people out of the hobby than most other factors. A standard back cover can save money by improving the life of the engine too.
For The Midwest Series, the rules are a little easier to abide by. The rules for '09' will be more defined but still fairly simple. 2 1/2" is a pretty sensible front windshield cutout size, there will be NO restriction on rear window cut out.
Standard rear engine plate is legal. I am not in favor of requiring that a pull start be left on the engine. During all my years as a store owner, I have always recomended that buyers budget a starter box asap. Pull starts have driven more people out of the hobby than most other factors. A standard back cover can save money by improving the life of the engine too.
10-18-2008, 03:40 PM
#1300
Mika,
Don’t know how much my IGT2 weighs, but it can’t be much more that the IGT1 chassis. I feel the benefits of the new chassis outweigh the slight increase in mass, they new car feel like it can be driven harder around tracks. The new RTR engine package seems to make more power to while still remaining a 3 port design.
JDCrow,
If they are working on rules, my hope is they’ve at least been talking to some of the “groups” racing the RTR GT cars, as well as, all the companies involved from the start, since that have been the ones that have shaped the class so far.
Zoot,
I’ve also had good success with the IGT1 gearing racing, the car in “Spec” form.
Alex,
Go a max size of 3” for the front windshield, open up the side window for tuning & refueling and as large as you want on the rear glass. The GT car bodies need as much airflow across the head as possible or they’ll overheat in the 30 minute Main, it’s the nature of the beast.
Your pull start must remain operational, but we all use starter boxes. The Ofna “chrome top” works very well.
We’ve also found that the RTR engine works very well with an additional head shim, 16 % nitro fuel and OS8 plugs on our tracks here in Florida. Go with 60W to 80W oil in the shocks, add the optional front/rear sway bars and KC45 composite clutch too. For tires you will have great traction & long tire life with the Ipanema pre-mounted 45 & 50 shore tires on the big Kraceway track.
Hope you make it down, it’s one of America’s greatest RC tracks and the GT cars look great on the track too.
Dune,
A 2 1/2" max front windshield hole size might work OK in colder climates like Ohio, but not in places with warmer climates like Florida in a 30 minute race.
If you’re planning on letting racers remove the pull start backing plate, you better go with the claimer rule because any 14mm crankshaft will fit the IGT2’s RTR engine and the “cheating” & hi-cost associated with every form of on-road nitro racing will kill your class dead real fast, but then again, what do I know about thes types of cars anyway?
Don’t know how much my IGT2 weighs, but it can’t be much more that the IGT1 chassis. I feel the benefits of the new chassis outweigh the slight increase in mass, they new car feel like it can be driven harder around tracks. The new RTR engine package seems to make more power to while still remaining a 3 port design.
JDCrow,
If they are working on rules, my hope is they’ve at least been talking to some of the “groups” racing the RTR GT cars, as well as, all the companies involved from the start, since that have been the ones that have shaped the class so far.
Zoot,
I’ve also had good success with the IGT1 gearing racing, the car in “Spec” form.
Alex,
Go a max size of 3” for the front windshield, open up the side window for tuning & refueling and as large as you want on the rear glass. The GT car bodies need as much airflow across the head as possible or they’ll overheat in the 30 minute Main, it’s the nature of the beast.
Your pull start must remain operational, but we all use starter boxes. The Ofna “chrome top” works very well.
We’ve also found that the RTR engine works very well with an additional head shim, 16 % nitro fuel and OS8 plugs on our tracks here in Florida. Go with 60W to 80W oil in the shocks, add the optional front/rear sway bars and KC45 composite clutch too. For tires you will have great traction & long tire life with the Ipanema pre-mounted 45 & 50 shore tires on the big Kraceway track.
Hope you make it down, it’s one of America’s greatest RC tracks and the GT cars look great on the track too.
Dune,
A 2 1/2" max front windshield hole size might work OK in colder climates like Ohio, but not in places with warmer climates like Florida in a 30 minute race.
If you’re planning on letting racers remove the pull start backing plate, you better go with the claimer rule because any 14mm crankshaft will fit the IGT2’s RTR engine and the “cheating” & hi-cost associated with every form of on-road nitro racing will kill your class dead real fast, but then again, what do I know about thes types of cars anyway?
10-18-2008, 06:46 PM
#1301
Wow! You guys are awesome. I appreciate the wealth of information.
JSpeed, why 16% fuel? Curious as I am running 30% /9% Byrons and it seems to run fairly decent.
JSpeed, why 16% fuel? Curious as I am running 30% /9% Byrons and it seems to run fairly decent.
10-19-2008, 12:16 AM
#1302
yeah indeed , Im happy to see its like that .. even with alum shocks.. not heavy
10-19-2008, 12:37 PM
#1303
Sup guys havent posted in a few weeks,infact i havent even read this thread in a few weeks either, i started donig some reading about 3 pages back and see there was alot of talk about the new DM-1S,IGT1,IGT2 and i got a question, even tho im a huge fan of of the inferno gt (i still own 3 of them) after seen the new DM-1S online AND in person i gottta say IMO the DM-1S looks like alot better RACER in fact i was so impressed im planning on geting one in the next 2 or 3 weeks once i sell off my baja5b, anyways here is my questions because i saw alot of DM-1S Vs IGT2 talk
Once ROAR actually makes the OFFICAL rules for the GT class what size chassis will be the one in use??? will race legal be IGT1 or IGT2 chassis specs?? or where there be 2 diffrent classes??? i ask becuase if the IGT1 class is bein fased out, the DM-1S would not be worth it, for that i could just just convert one of my IGT1 to IGT2 chassis specs. What do you guys think???
Once ROAR actually makes the OFFICAL rules for the GT class what size chassis will be the one in use??? will race legal be IGT1 or IGT2 chassis specs?? or where there be 2 diffrent classes??? i ask becuase if the IGT1 class is bein fased out, the DM-1S would not be worth it, for that i could just just convert one of my IGT1 to IGT2 chassis specs. What do you guys think???
10-19-2008, 01:09 PM
#1304
Clutch options?
Does anyone know if this clutch would work on the Kyosho Audi GT2 car?
http://www.modhobby.com/catalog/detail/MIP1632
or do they need to be heavy instead of light?
BTW, is this right thread to be posting these questions? I want to make sure I am not hijacking it.
http://www.modhobby.com/catalog/detail/MIP1632
or do they need to be heavy instead of light?
BTW, is this right thread to be posting these questions? I want to make sure I am not hijacking it.
10-19-2008, 01:34 PM
#1305
Alex,
That 3 shoe clutch looks good if you have a 3 pin flywheel.
I'd suggest trying the Kyosho KC45 2 shoe set-up first to see if it works as good for you on the track too.
The IGT2 RTR engine runs very well on 16 & 20% fuels with lower temps and faster top end than 30% fuels. The higher percentage fuels do give more bottom end grunt, but seem to make top end temps suffer too much for the added abuse than they're worth.
Miami,
Have you been running at Homestead's track?
Weight + horsepower + aerodynamics = speed
That 3 shoe clutch looks good if you have a 3 pin flywheel.
I'd suggest trying the Kyosho KC45 2 shoe set-up first to see if it works as good for you on the track too.
The IGT2 RTR engine runs very well on 16 & 20% fuels with lower temps and faster top end than 30% fuels. The higher percentage fuels do give more bottom end grunt, but seem to make top end temps suffer too much for the added abuse than they're worth.
Miami,
Have you been running at Homestead's track?
Weight + horsepower + aerodynamics = speed