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Old 10-15-2008, 10:48 AM   #1261
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JLock, It would be great to get a hobby shop on board but I have not heard of any that are interested. I heard about a new Hobbytown right off of the toll road. I have not been by yet. Maybe we need to talk with him. Does he have the space. I think we need to find a place that looks like it will work and talk to the owners. Do you have any ideas? Should we talk with the Hobbytown owner in Dallas? RCRCNT is just too far for a Sunday afternoon or Saturday morning race.
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:36 PM   #1262
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JLock, It would be great to get a hobby shop on board but I have not heard of any that are interested. I heard about a new Hobbytown right off of the toll road. I have not been by yet. Maybe we need to talk with him. Does he have the space. I think we need to find a place that looks like it will work and talk to the owners. Do you have any ideas? Should we talk with the Hobbytown owner in Dallas? RCRCNT is just too far for a Sunday afternoon or Saturday morning race.
Will,

The new hobby store is called RC Fever Hobbies and it is a full service hobby store (planes, boats, helis, cars, etc). I am going to try to check him out tomorrow after work and talk to the owner or find out who he is and try to start a dialog. I have a few thoughts floating in my dome but we need to get together and maybe find a few more locals that we can all get together, bounce some ideas off each other, and put some sort of proposal together so we can approach some of these people to show that we are serious about racing and supporting a racing program.

Juan
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:35 AM   #1263
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Ok, did my mods and the car is now race ready.

With alum shocks and swaybars it weights around the same or slightly less than the stock car.

During re-build ..

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Old 10-16-2008, 09:02 AM   #1264
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Ok, did my mods and the car is now race ready.

With alum shocks and swaybars it weights around the same or slightly less than the stock car.

During re-build ..

Car looks great, you're going to love racing it!

Nice tires
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:18 AM   #1265
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Default GT2 car gears

So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now. I know the mesh of the motor is right, could it be a rock or something that may have binded into the gear mesh opening of the chassis? I am planning on devising a lexan shield for that next week.

Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:18 AM   #1266
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Solara,

What I mean by LeMans-style is have the Kyosho IGT as a class, the IGT2 and a class, the OFNA DM-1 Spec as a class, the Ultra/Ultra II as a class, race them all together but score them in their separate classes. I am not meaning having 200mm touring cars, 1/8th scale Lola-body cars, etc mixed in and all on the track at the same time. My idea is strictly concerning the 1/8th scale buggy-style touring cars from the different manufacturers as not to exclude anyone from racing that may not either have the Kyosho car or want to purchase the Kyosho car (someone that is more comfortable with another brand in the same class). My idea is having them all being box-stock with tire, radio, shock/diff oil changes only (like currently run in many places). It could be the Spec LeMans class. Like I suggested, it is just an idea.
Actually, I did not misunderstood your idea...all these car that you have mentioned (Kyosho IGT1 IGT2, GTP1 GTP2, DM1-spec....) they are EXACTLY the same thing...why seperate them? Seperate them because the IGT2 is 1" longer is just a waste of time. Classes that need to seperate because they ran different engine or tires or bodies...exactly like the real LeMan series...those cars are all different. Thats why they need to be different class.

Not to mention how difficult to setup 1 race with all these different brand and how boring to see there are 2 cars for IGT1, 3 cars for IGT2 class, 1 car for Dm1-spec car and 2 cars for GTP II class...

Just race them all together with SPEC RTR engine $150-180 caps, any rubber tires, any TC or Rally or non-lola type body and race 10-15 cars heads on....NOW, that is fun.
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:30 AM   #1267
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So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now. I know the mesh of the motor is right, could it be a rock or something that may have binded into the gear mesh opening of the chassis? I am planning on devising a lexan shield for that next week.

Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
Racers in the local scene have been swapping the stock second gear with one that comes from the Evolva. Now I would see this takes other parts to finish. I think people also get rid of the bushing and throw in a bearing instead.

I will be racing this weekend and will take a look at what part numbers they are using. I recently bought my IGT2 but have not started it yet.

Will let you know.
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Old 10-16-2008, 12:13 PM   #1268
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Actually, I did not misunderstood your idea...all these car that you have mentioned (Kyosho IGT1 IGT2, GTP1 GTP2, DM1-spec....) they are EXACTLY the same thing...why seperate them? Seperate them because the IGT2 is 1" longer is just a waste of time. Classes that need to seperate because they ran different engine or tires or bodies...exactly like the real LeMan series...those cars are all different. Thats why they need to be different class.

Not to mention how difficult to setup 1 race with all these different brand and how boring to see there are 2 cars for IGT1, 3 cars for IGT2 class, 1 car for Dm1-spec car and 2 cars for GTP II class...

Just race them all together with SPEC RTR engine $150-180 caps, any rubber tires, any TC or Rally or non-lola type body and race 10-15 cars heads on....NOW, that is fun.
same way I was thinking when you don't have enough guys to separate the classes, but hopefully soon open and spec will grow it's tooo much fun driving thses cars.
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Old 10-16-2008, 12:46 PM   #1269
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Thanks Jeff! I'm sure I will. It's so beautiful just to look at.

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So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now. I know the mesh of the motor is right, could it be a rock or something that may have binded into the gear mesh opening of the chassis? I am planning on devising a lexan shield for that next week.

Does anyone know if there are any metal gear options instead? Seems kind of silly to have a metal gear to plastic. Thoughts?
I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
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Old 10-16-2008, 01:14 PM   #1270
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I bet that was it. It was shifting late and we were doing very high speed runs at Road Atlanta. I still think the concept of this gear system is a bit weak. Needs a harder compound or metal. Besides selling more parts, I wonder if there is any reason it is not metal.

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Thanks Jeff! I'm sure I will. It's so beautiful just to look at.



I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
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Old 10-16-2008, 01:57 PM   #1271
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Plastic spur gears work fine, all the 1/8th on road cars use plastic spur with steel or aluminum pinion gears. I have had gears last a long time on my GT car, and other times I have had gears last a few minutes. Besides the obvious problems, poor mesh, rocks or debris, or possibly a late shift point, check your clutch. If your clutch overheats it might pass the heat on to the spurs and assist in them stripping out.
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:30 PM   #1272
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Since it has just started out here everyone brought something different to the table as in engine but kept the chassis work the same I had a .28 Picco but had problems with so I took my .21 out of my buggy and ran smoother it just didn't have the spank like the .28 and on Jeffrey Lins car he had a Force.28 RTR engine that was good all around the track another driver had a Jammin JPX.21 that was fast.We know in the furture that if this gets any bigger that will split into spec and open but we like the open. To have the speed like a sedan wiht a bigger size in mind looks spectacular and is a whole lot of fun, we're not trying to blow it up into big dollars which the tire factor helped out alot compared to 1/10 sedan racing and buying big priced engines(You can purchase a Picco.28 engine around $220.00 and a .21 for about $250.00and a Force engines sells for about $150.00)and my engines run on standard plugs. And Jeffrey won the race with a Force engine, so only thing I would worry about rules is to have a touring style body with wing attached to the body not the car.And for pipes that was across the table to but I had a Jp-3
Hey thanks for the info, thats the stuff I really wanted to hear. I think Im gonna pull my V-Spec w/jp3 out of my truggy and run it for a while till I figure out which combo is gonna work the best. Now the big ??? is what tires are gonna be the choice for CP. You think I can be competative with rubbers if the other guys are running foams. I like the idea of running rubber to get more use out of them before there done.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:34 PM   #1273
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Thanks Jeff! I'm sure I will. It's so beautiful just to look at.



I raced with GT2 gearing my GT1. I had no issues in the race nor practise before and after. Make sure the mesh is as small as possible. I also like the 2-speed change early. I figured if it changes late (on higher speed/revolutions) it will hit harder the gears, too. Not sure but that way I've so far managed to keep the gears unstripped.
On the other I had a GT2 test car a week ago and noticed it changed rather late. Later on, we stripped the gears from it. The mesh was not optimal either.
Hope this helps!
Just general info...I run the steel 2 speed located in the hyper 7 hop ups on nitrohouse. You can run it with the hyper 7 seven center shaft on DM-1 and IGT and you can run it with the GTP shaft to fit the weird bearings. It is finger type only and it comes with a bunch of unneeded parts so it costs a pretty penny.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...oducts_id=9834
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:13 PM   #1274
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Thanks for the tip. I've seen several conversions but I still like the stock 2-speed best. It's lightweight and therefore has little rotational mass. It's also simple to maintain. If keep this one working I don't see a need for anything else. After the pin wears out inside the 2nd gear it's easy to replace with a slightly bigger one in dia (cut from a drill bit), then it lasts usually very long.
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:41 PM   #1275
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So I have had this Audi DTM GT2 car for a few weeks. I have stripped the second gear twice now.

Thoughts?
I would guess you have not changed the brass bushings in the 2 nd gear to ball bearings! If those brass bushings has worn just a little, then you will get into these kind of problems. Of course the mesh has to be good too, but the good mesh does not help if the gear has radial free play.

That is again one wrong place where Kyosho has cut costs...
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