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Old 10-13-2008, 10:37 AM   #1231
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Solara,

You don’t need to have a luggage bag of different shore tires to take to a track once you know what works on it.

Every track is different, a rubber tire shore that works perfectly in one environment or climate might react the same at another on a different type of surface or track layout.

An example might be an open flowing track with mostly wide-open running areas vs. a tight technical track with few hi-speed areas. Hi-speed sections actually allow rubber tires the ability to “cool down’, where technical areas generate heat.

Since racing is a balance of “give & take”, knowledge of what will provide the best traction & durability can only be gained thru experience or example.

It’s basically the same in off-road racing as far as having different types of tires, if you show up with 1 set of “Crime fighters” only and they’re not working because of “blue groove”, then the fast local guys smoke you because they have a tire better prepared for that track surface condition.

All of this talk of “dialing-in” cars with different rubber tire shores really only applies to racers that understand the science behind it and want to use it to their advantage at races.
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Old 10-13-2008, 10:39 AM   #1232
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Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
Solara,

You don’t need to have a luggage bag of different shore tires to take to a track once you know what works on it.

Every track is different, a rubber tire shore that works perfectly in one environment or climate might react the same at another on a different type of surface or track layout.

An example might be an open flowing track with mostly wide-open running areas vs. a tight technical track with few hi-speed areas. Hi-speed sections actually allow rubber tires the ability to “cool down’, where technical areas generate heat.

Since racing is a balance of “give & take”, knowledge of what will provide the best traction & durability can only be gained thru experience or example.

It’s basically the same in off-road racing as far as having different types of tires, if you show up with 1 set of “Crime fighters” only and they’re not working because of “blue groove”, then the fast local guys smoke you because they have a tire better prepared for that track surface condition.

All of this talk of “dialing-in” cars with different rubber tire shores really only applies to racers that understand the science behind it and want to use it to their advantage at races.
Where is that SCHOOL OF RC..? I think I need to sign up for the summer course or something...LOL

Anyhow, great info from you and here...I will keep getting more info and get the IGT ready for new year MWS and Byron and other IGT event....can't wait.
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Old 10-13-2008, 10:29 PM   #1233
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:39 AM   #1234
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Here is an idea that I want many of you to think about. Since we now have so many of the 1/8th scale buggy-type touring cars, how about doing it as a LeMans-type series. You can have all the Spec cars running together but score them in their individual classes (ie: IGT, IGT2, DM-Spec, Ultra GT, Ultra GT2, etc). All the cars would have to be out-the-box stock with the exception of radio upgrades, shock/diff oil changes, and tire upgrades (no foams). Then you can have a GT class where all the cars are treated equally because this would be the class where you can mod your car to the max (ie: engine change, hop-ups galore, etc). This way, you will not be excluding a brand/manufacturer and this will allow racers that may not like Kyosho to buy the brand they are more comfortable/familiar to running.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:37 PM   #1235
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Here is an idea that I want many of you to think about. Since we now have so many of the 1/8th scale buggy-type touring cars, how about doing it as a LeMans-type series. You can have all the Spec cars running together but score them in their individual classes (ie: IGT, IGT2, DM-Spec, Ultra GT, Ultra GT2, etc). All the cars would have to be out-the-box stock with the exception of radio upgrades, shock/diff oil changes, and tire upgrades (no foams). Then you can have a GT class where all the cars are treated equally because this would be the class where you can mod your car to the max (ie: engine change, hop-ups galore, etc). This way, you will not be excluding a brand/manufacturer and this will allow racers that may not like Kyosho to buy the brand they are more comfortable/familiar to running.

It could be possible to run everyone together if the scoring systems will support it, the race directors will put in the extra effort to enter the cars according to class and the "Open" cars don't crash into the slower cars because they feel they're in their way. That's a lot of variables

I can't wait to get the new Ipanema GT Tire Warmers. I can see it now.... tires up to temps at the start of each race and the announcer saying.."there goes Jspeed in another area code"
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Old 10-14-2008, 03:10 PM   #1236
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It could be possible to run everyone together if the scoring systems will support it, the race directors will put in the extra effort to enter the cars according to class and the "Open" cars don't crash into the slower cars because they feel they're in their way. That's a lot of variables

I can't wait to get the new Ipanema GT Tire Warmers. I can see it now.... tires up to temps at the start of each race and the announcer saying.."there goes Jspeed in another area code"
JLock, I brought up a LM style race a few months ago and I know it would be great! My idea included 1/8 onroad, 1/10 onroad and the IGT's for a true LeMans series race!

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Old 10-14-2008, 03:59 PM   #1237
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I said the same thing also a LeMans deal would be a great thing to see, because you would have to give and take with the slower cars in the field and if you drive without common sense then that would call for a stop and go and 3 strikes would be cause for a full lap down.
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Old 10-14-2008, 04:11 PM   #1238
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Its very simple, keep all the 1/8 GT cars together. Score the Box Stock RTRs together, and everything else is open class. The experienced racers should know better then to run up in the rear of the slower cars, just as the slower driver should let the faster car pass.

I would discourage running a Le mans class with 1/10 TC, 1/8 4wd open, and 1/8 GT car.
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Old 10-14-2008, 04:37 PM   #1239
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Le mans would be like this DM-1 (full size) open/spec,DM-1 spec open/spec,GTP II open/spec,IGT and IGT 2 open/spec or any GT 1/8th scale type of car ex. Thunder Tiger. It would help make a class until the class can fill into their own catagories.
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Old 10-14-2008, 06:36 PM   #1240
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Lemans style racing works great if you have low turnouts in several classes with cars of similar speeds. Its Good for the racers who want extended track time, and good for the race director trying to manage time for the event.

Lemans style 20 car events work great if you have 20 entries, the software and hardware to manage the race, and a large enough track with 40+ second lap times.

If you have more the 20 entries, you could end up after qualifications with only a few cars from a particular type racing in the feature.

Any type of racing with more than 10 cars on a track that has less than 15 second lap times can cause unnecessary risk to the turn marshalls.

Who wants to turn marshall a racetrack that has 9 lb cars, racing at high rates of speed when you have to dodge 1 or more car every second as you go out to assist a disabled car and then try to get off the track to safety?
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:59 PM   #1241
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Originally Posted by -R2- View Post
Le mans would be like this DM-1 (full size) open/spec,DM-1 spec open/spec,GTP II open/spec,IGT and IGT 2 open/spec or any GT 1/8th scale type of car ex. Thunder Tiger. It would help make a class until the class can fill into their own catagories.
Hey R2, I am considering buying a dm1 spec, after seeing them run at the GLARCRC regionals we had here a couple of weeks ago. My question is this; are there any sort of rules these guys are running under or is just "run what you brung". I saw several different motor/pipe combos (.21 & .28). As someone stated in a earlier post, I not interested in buying 2 or 3 $400 to $500 motors. I thought someone had said that they had to be pull start type motors. Anyways if you have any info on some of the rules here in region 12 that would be great.
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:46 PM   #1242
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Hey R2, I am considering buying a dm1 spec, after seeing them run at the GLARCRC regionals we had here a couple of weeks ago. My question is this; are there any sort of rules these guys are running under or is just "run what you brung". I saw several different motor/pipe combos (.21 & .28). As someone stated in a earlier post, I not interested in buying 2 or 3 $400 to $500 motors. I thought someone had said that they had to be pull start type motors. Anyways if you have any info on some of the rules here in region 12 that would be great.

There is no need to buy 2 or 3 engines. If you know how to take care of your mill, one will easily last you an entire season of racing. Those guys running 2 or 3 motors per season are in a different category of racing, either that or take this hobby way to seriously. Have fun with your car and fellow racers, and get something reliable, so you don't have to buy 2 or 3 engines.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:01 PM   #1243
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The Le Mans thing is OK if a track’s “Spec” program has a low turnout, I guess, but I don’t want to see it here in Florida. Tracks with a growing or strong “Spec” program should keep the good thing they have going.

I think the whole open GT class is not the brightest idea. The reason GT racing is growing is its low entry cost. “GT Open” class cars will turn out to be more expensive than 1/8 scale real fast, don’t think that’s possible? How about I show up to a race with my IGT2 running a Murman modified 35+ set-up, who’s gonna hang with that?

Guys, we’ve been having a lot of fun down here, for the most part, running “Spec” class cars. It great to go to a race where the only thing that separates the fast guys from the slow guys is knowledge, street smarts, ability and luck.

To build an “Open Class” car out of one of these chassis is just stupid to me, no offence guys.

If I wanted to go a lot faster around the tracks, I’d buy the new Kyosho Evolva and do it for real. (Hey, haven’t I written that like a gazillion times before on this thread?)
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:07 PM   #1244
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There is no need to buy 2 or 3 engines. If you know how to take care of your mill, one will easily last you an entire season of racing. Those guys running 2 or 3 motors per season are in a different category of racing, either that or take this hobby way to seriously. Have fun with your car and fellow racers, and get something reliable, so you don't have to buy 2 or 3 engines.
Vad, if you're racing 1/8 scale on-road on a regional or national level you're going to go thru a few engines a season if you want to be one of the fast guys.

Even guys running 1/10 Sedan go thru engines like mad, you're talking about racing at the highest level, money is no object in those "Open" classes.

The ROAR National that was just held at "The Fort" had to claim a whole lotta new engines, not to mention foamies
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:17 PM   #1245
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Jspeed,

The reason why I re-introduced the LeMans idea is that with so many brands of the IGT-style car on the market, you don't want to exclude racers that might not want to buy the Kyosho car. This way, you can include everyone which will, in turn, increase turnouts, thus having more fun with more competitors. That is suppose to be the ultimate goal, isn't it?
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