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Old 07-16-2008, 10:10 AM   #841
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what would i need to do to use my rc8 in this class?
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:50 PM   #842
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Normally I don't care to do this, and I have nothing to gain, but after seeing one and helping the guy out, I have to post something here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=130230793374

Do not buy this POS. It is a near copy of the K car, but the quality is very poor; both in assembly and material. I think they copied the 777 in some parts instead of the 7.5, and although it appears to have the same geometry and balance as the K car, it has some serious issues.
A friend of a friend bought one and asked me to help him get it going. After 10minutes of running, and only after I oiled the filter, set the trim and end points, adjusted the front toe and droop, etc., the car stopped running. Several screws had come loose and the diffs had stopped working. During the time it ran the 2 speed one way kept slipping. We took the diffs out to find them smothered in grease and I mean smothered, but inside the diffs we found only 1 pair of small bevel gears, not 2 pairs. The inside of the diffs were also packed with grease, which is probably why it ran for a few minutes.
On a positive note, the car did have aluminum towers and the engine started and ran well, but unless you plan on taking the entire car apart and rebuilding it and possibly buying diff gears and who knows what else, it's not worth it.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:27 AM   #843
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Originally Posted by garen View Post
Normally I don't care to do this, and I have nothing to gain, but after seeing one and helping the guy out, I have to post something here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=130230793374

Do not buy this POS. It is a near copy of the K car, but the quality is very poor; both in assembly and material. I think they copied the 777 in some parts instead of the 7.5, and although it appears to have the same geometry and balance as the K car, it has some serious issues.
A friend of a friend bought one and asked me to help him get it going. After 10minutes of running, and only after I oiled the filter, set the trim and end points, adjusted the front toe and droop, etc., the car stopped running. Several screws had come loose and the diffs had stopped working. During the time it ran the 2 speed one way kept slipping. We took the diffs out to find them smothered in grease and I mean smothered, but inside the diffs we found only 1 pair of small bevel gears, not 2 pairs. The inside of the diffs were also packed with grease, which is probably why it ran for a few minutes.
On a positive note, the car did have aluminum towers and the engine started and ran well, but unless you plan on taking the entire car apart and rebuilding it and possibly buying diff gears and who knows what else, it's not worth it.
Thanks for the heads up. It is junk like this that some buy in on the cheap and when it fails, frustrates the buyer and eventually turns them off from the hobby. I work in a hobby shop in Dallas and we get customers coming in with cars like this all the time broken and in need of parts/repair. These customers get really angry when you tell them that you can't help them because the car they have is not something you can obtain parts easily if at all to make repairs. It is stuff like this that puts a black eye on the quality stuff in this hobby.
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:49 PM   #844
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It looks like a very interesting bootlegg. The last picture I think was taken off of the Kyosoho site. I would not trust getting one.
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:07 AM   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infernoman2008 View Post
what kind of ride height are you guys running in frt and rear also what frt and rear camber settings, and how much positive or negative tow in the frt thanks and are you using 70weight oil in the frt and rear shocks and would you concider locking up the frt diff like the 1/10 scales do CAN ANYBODY ANSWER THIS

Ride height depends on the track. You just want to keep it from draging. I have run 7 to 12mm. The IGT seem to need a lot of negative camber, I am running -3.5 on the rear and -2.5 on the front. I have not changed the rear toe but more front toe out will help minimize on power understeer. 70 wt shock oil all around should be good. Put some heavy diff oil in the front and some light diff oil in the back.

That should get you pretty close.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:39 AM   #846
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Ride height depends on the track. You just want to keep it from draging. I have run 7 to 12mm. The IGT seem to need a lot of negative camber, I am running -3.5 on the rear and -2.5 on the front. I have not changed the rear toe but more front toe out will help minimize on power understeer. 70 wt shock oil all around should be good. Put some heavy diff oil in the front and some light diff oil in the back.

That should get you pretty close.
Because of all of the caster created by the kick-up on the front of the chassis, I have found that I have a LOT MORE STEERING by running positive front camber. I am much faster in the middle of the turn when I run +.5 front camber.

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Old 07-19-2008, 09:48 AM   #847
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I don't know about positive camber, but the chassis does seen to like 0 to -1/2 degrees up front.

See ya at the races
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:06 AM   #848
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I don't know about positive camber, but the chassis does seen to like 0 to -1/2 degrees up front.

See ya at the races
Hummm, maybe I should try less negarive camber up front.
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:39 AM   #849
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Hummm, maybe I should try less negarive camber up front.
Give positive camber in the front a try. I think you will find +.5 is about right and it helps keep more tire on the ground in the center and thru the exit of the turn when the wheels are turned. More rubber on the ground = less push.

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Old 07-19-2008, 11:49 AM   #850
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Dr. Muse, tomorrow I might have two cars on the track (not at the same time). The Ferrari and the Porsche will be out there fighting it out with 1/7 scales! stay tuned! I'm working on Diffs right now!
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Old 07-20-2008, 01:15 PM   #851
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Hi,
hope it's ok to post few pics from our race today. TQ and finished 2. in overall, not bad. We had equal amount of Kyosho's and OFNA's. It was so much fun!
Cheers
(photos by Mikko Meriluoto)







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Old 07-20-2008, 01:27 PM   #852
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Great pictures from Finland!

Looks like your GT class is growing real nice.
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Old 07-20-2008, 11:51 PM   #853
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Thanks Jeff! Gun-refueling was one key to our (team's) success, it took only about 3 secs to refuel. Had a hole on the roof above the tank to refuel. We were doing 3+15min finals, 2 of them, and calculated total points to find out the winner. With 150ml tank I had to refuel only once. We are using Boca rear bearings in our stock engines and they can now better handle 25% nitro and higher temps without burning plugs.
We expect more cars to the next race before the end of the summer [I hope].

Video from the race http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36d9_M308v0

Last edited by MikaR; 07-21-2008 at 03:55 AM.
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:59 AM   #854
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Here is a link to all pictures that Mikko Meriluoto took from the event.

Our rules allowed all "buggy based" cars with RTR engine and pipe to attend and all the other things were free to modify. All cars were either IGT or GTP II and I can say that the performance of these two cars is equal, it is far more up to driver and setup than difference in these two cars.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:37 AM   #855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Hi,
hope it's ok to post few pics from our race today. TQ and finished 2. in overall, not bad. We had equal amount of Kyosho's and OFNA's. It was so much fun!
Cheers
(photos by Mikko Meriluoto)







Mika, was that you hitting another Ferarri? Your car must be flying that you forgot to use your brakes. It looks really fun though!

Jeff, what a difference since I changed all to Boca bearings from my clutch
to my motor. It's definitly worth upgrading everything to ceramic ball bearings.
My rpm's are higher and my motor temp is lower even with the Sidewinder
30% race by Morgan Fuel. Thanks again Jeff!
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