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Old 04-17-2012, 08:10 PM   #8176
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Originally Posted by jneg View Post
Ok, first since the 2 speed uses a solid center shaft it doesn't matter if you have both brakes up front or 1 and 1. The only thing that really matters is how fast the heat buildup can be disipated by them. So it is much easier to cool them with one in front and one rear. Second true brake vias can't be adjusted like in a buggy with a center diff but you can simulate the effect. By having one brake engage first then the other. To do this you need to have two brake levers. I use RC8 brake disks and RC8 brake linkages. With this setup you can have the rear lock earlier or later or any way you want. The disks are excellent and last a long time plus their compund grabs even with some fuel on them. Another Plus is that they have an inner aluminum center that dissipates a lot of heat. They are not direct fit but with some dremel work you will have more than enough brakes to lock them up at will. I have even had to remove brakes because they work soo good.
+1 on this set up .... Works as noted, also with both pads seems total heat is less over a long run. My 2 cents.
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Last edited by Grenade10; 04-17-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:21 PM   #8177
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Ok, first since the 2 speed uses a solid center shaft it doesn't matter if you have both brakes up front or 1 and 1. The only thing that really matters is how fast the heat buildup can be disipated by them. So it is much easier to cool them with one in front and one rear. Second true brake vias can't be adjusted like in a buggy with a center diff but you can simulate the effect. By having one brake engage first then the other. To do this you need to have two brake levers. I use RC8 brake disks and RC8 brake linkages. With this setup you can have the rear lock earlier or later or any way you want. The disks are excellent and last a long time plus their compund grabs even with some fuel on them. Another Plus is that they have an inner aluminum center that dissipates a lot of heat. They are not direct fit but with some dremel work you will have more than enough brakes to lock them up at will. I have even had to remove brakes because they work soo good.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'd like to see what you have done.
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:45 AM   #8178
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I only have the brakes in the front....I use the upgraded pads/disc as well as using a small spring in between to keep the apart when not braking. This way you can have a bit more space and when you let off brake it cools quicker by keeping the pads apart.

One thing I learned last weekend was that if I can get my car set up properly with the correct diff fluids I didn't need all the braking power I previously did by driving to hard into the corners. Having a set up to roll into the corner and pull out quicker under power allowed me to drive with almost zero brake needed. I only used brake when I was in traffic, otherwise just rolled through the corners.....

If you are using that much brake to heat it up and melt the plastic cup on the two speed holder your set up or driving style probably needs attention.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:31 AM   #8179
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:47 AM   #8180
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Has anyone tried the LRP ZR.30 in a DM-1 or IGT? They are being sold off at rock-bottom prices here - €60.. Used to be €200+.. Anyway, I like the idea of getting one and breaking it in in my DM-1, then later throwing a backplate on it and having it for my LST2's...

So far I feel like the gearing in my DM-1 needs more grunt anyway. The 21's and Mach 427 I've tried haven't even pushed it up into the 50's(mph) yet.. The little Rally Game tires are surely a factor there too... Still, I feel like it needs more muscle to push the gearing, as opposed to massive revs with some race .21... Could be wrong though - dunno'.. Do like the advantage of having an engine that can be run in several of my RC's(DM-1, SC8, LST2's, etc..)
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:22 AM   #8181
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Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
When I had my DM-1 I changed it to a front rear set-up (1 in front of the 2 speed and 1 in the back) so I could adjust how I control braking front to rear. I liked it much better that way because it didn't upset the stance of the car as much under braking. IMO going to a front\rear brake setup is better.

Regards,

Daniel
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I agree the front rear setup works the best.But use the upgraded pads and rotors.
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Originally Posted by jneg View Post
Ok, first since the 2 speed uses a solid center shaft it doesn't matter if you have both brakes up front or 1 and 1. The only thing that really matters is how fast the heat buildup can be disipated by them. So it is much easier to cool them with one in front and one rear. Second true brake vias can't be adjusted like in a buggy with a center diff but you can simulate the effect. By having one brake engage first then the other. To do this you need to have two brake levers. I use RC8 brake disks and RC8 brake linkages. With this setup you can have the rear lock earlier or later or any way you want. The disks are excellent and last a long time plus their compund grabs even with some fuel on them. Another Plus is that they have an inner aluminum center that dissipates a lot of heat. They are not direct fit but with some dremel work you will have more than enough brakes to lock them up at will. I have even had to remove brakes because they work soo good.
Thank you all.....now, what upgrade brake pad/disc that I should buy...? Brand and model # please...thanks.
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:23 AM   #8182
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Originally Posted by jneg View Post
Ok, first since the 2 speed uses a solid center shaft it doesn't matter if you have both brakes up front or 1 and 1. The only thing that really matters is how fast the heat buildup can be disipated by them. So it is much easier to cool them with one in front and one rear. Second true brake vias can't be adjusted like in a buggy with a center diff but you can simulate the effect. By having one brake engage first then the other. To do this you need to have two brake levers. I use RC8 brake disks and RC8 brake linkages. With this setup you can have the rear lock earlier or later or any way you want. The disks are excellent and last a long time plus their compund grabs even with some fuel on them. Another Plus is that they have an inner aluminum center that dissipates a lot of heat. They are not direct fit but with some dremel work you will have more than enough brakes to lock them up at will. I have even had to remove brakes because they work soo good.
You have a picture to show what does that look like..? Thanks.
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:31 AM   #8183
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Has anyone tried the LRP ZR.30 in a DM-1 or IGT? They are being sold off at rock-bottom prices here - 60.. Used to be 200+.. Anyway, I like the idea of getting one and breaking it in in my DM-1, then later throwing a backplate on it and having it for my LST2's...

So far I feel like the gearing in my DM-1 needs more grunt anyway. The 21's and Mach 427 I've tried haven't even pushed it up into the 50's(mph) yet.. The little Rally Game tires are surely a factor there too... Still, I feel like it needs more muscle to push the gearing, as opposed to massive revs with some race .21... Could be wrong though - dunno'.. Do like the advantage of having an engine that can be run in several of my RC's(DM-1, SC8, LST2's, etc..)
I am running a LRP .28 in my GT2. The engine is very impressive and turns faster laps than this same car did with a RB.21 Rody Roem engine installed. I think I paid about $170 for this engine and it is really fast with strong pull off the corners.

We are limited of a max engine size of .28 so I have not tried the .30. However if the .30 is anything like the .28 then it will be a great engine.

Lee
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:33 AM   #8184
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Default DM1 dual brakes

Here's a pic of my dual brake setup. You can see that it is just two identical setups on each side of the 2 speed. This is using the RC8 linkage parts. I'm using the Ofna CNC brake disk and sintered pads. (those are Kyosho pads on the back just because I had them lying around, the Ofna ones actually fit better).
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:05 PM   #8185
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Here's a pic of my dual brake setup. You can see that it is just two identical setups on each side of the 2 speed. This is using the RC8 linkage parts. I'm using the Ofna CNC brake disk and sintered pads. (those are Kyosho pads on the back just because I had them lying around, the Ofna ones actually fit better).
Thank you....very detailed information.
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:38 PM   #8186
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Originally Posted by WatchOut View Post
Here's a pic of my dual brake setup. You can see that it is just two identical setups on each side of the 2 speed. This is using the RC8 linkage parts. I'm using the Ofna CNC brake disk and sintered pads. (those are Kyosho pads on the back just because I had them lying around, the Ofna ones actually fit better).
Yes that's how I have mine. The difference is that I use RC8 Brakes as well. But the linkage set up is the way to go.
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:59 PM   #8187
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Finally got my GT2 back together after being ran over by a car

before..


now..


Thanks to brooklyn hobbies for the great price and leon for the misc parts and hump pack, much appreciated!
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:31 PM   #8188
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DM1-Spec owner....is there any benefit to have double brakes? If so...2 disk double brake in front of the 2-speed gear box or like some truggy with 1 front 1 back at the 2-speed...?

The Dm1 Spec I have has 2 disc brake system on the front and I am wondering I should add one at the back....thanks.
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:33 PM   #8189
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Thank you all.....now, what upgrade brake pad/disc that I should buy...? Brand and model # please...thanks.

Oh your torturing me... Aren't you

Are you sure you still love me?..
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:26 AM   #8190
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Can you guys recommend a hauler bag that has a tools compartment at the top and can fit a gt2 that's priced around 100 - 150. I hate having to haul around a tool box and the car and the Tx.

Thanks!
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