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Old 11-18-2011, 07:49 PM   #7486
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Default HotBodies D8 GT Converision Parts List and Basic Setup

Here is the list of parts that I used.
Kyosho GT2 front bumper and foam
Kyosho GT2 clutch style 2speed complete (use 1 of the D8 composite disk brake way better then stock)
Kyosho GT2 body mounts and body post
Kyosho GT2 front drive dog bone 100mm

Ofna DM clutch bell and pinions(better gearing options)
19t first 22t second

HB D8T fuel tank 150cc
HB Orange springs 98g front and rear
D8 original shock set 97mm shafts front and rear with 1.3mm pistons( if you can find shorter shafts say 50-70mm use shorter)
D8 original short rear shock tower
HPI drive cup that fits directly to D8 pinion gear on rear diff, The only one I found I had to dremel pin slot and bore out center to make Kyosho dog bone fit so it wont bind.

Setup:
Diffs
60,000-80,000wg diff oil front
10,000-20,000wg diff oil rear

Shocks using (1.3mm six hole pistons)
1,000wg diff oil front( yes diff oil)
2,000wg diff oil rear

The build is fairly easy, 80% is direct fit parts with minor modification needed.

The car works Great for small to mid size tracks, but not for 200+ foot straights you wont have enough gearing. D8s runs 10t/43t in diffs all other Gts are 13t/43t. I never found any direct fit combination that would work with out major modification. But if your tracks are tight and technical, you will blow the competition with its much faster acceleration.
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:59 PM   #7487
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Default HotBodies D8 GT Converision Modification Steps

I am replying to a PM about the 20% of modifications to finish the conversion.

-First you need to mount the 2 speed; mount it by lining up the 2speed to the front 2 holes on the chassis. This will show you how much you need to cut off the chassis so that the 2speed gears clears the chassis and you can mark the 2 rear mounting holes on the chassis. You will also have to cut the bottom center part of the 2speed holder on the rear of it to clear the rear chassis brace. *Important you will be using the same front center cvd drive axle its fits directly to the front of 2speed.

-Second once you get 2speed in the car you will notice the 2speed is much bigger, so you cant use the original rear center drive axle, Replace it with a dog bone 100mm Kyosho. It’s the front dog bone from a GT2. ***Important you will need to find a outdrive cup to fit the D8 rear diff pinion to use the dog. I used a old savage out drive that fit directly on pinion shaft, but had to burrow and trim the center of it to fit the kyosho dog bone.

-Third once you have the center drive line done and the 2speed in there running smooth with No Binding. Drive line should be very smooth and turn very easy by hand. Now you can try to mount the motor. You will use the original motor mounts and bottom plate that is on the D8. By now you will notice you will have to make new screw mount holes to mount the engine, the 2speed pushes plate to the rear about 4-6mm once you get holes drilled and mount plate you will notice motor touches the chassis and you can see and mark where you will need to mill out the chassis so it sits perfect. ****I used a good high speed dremel and nice big cutting wheel for all the cutting and milling.

Now car should be about done. Mount front bumper and front body mount kit to front its direct fit using the 2 top screws that hold the shock tower to diff case and the 2 front diff screws on the front bottom. Then mark the rear holes to drill on the inside top of the rear shock tower to mount the rear body mount bracket.

That’s pretty much it. If there is something unclear our not understood or something I mite of missed, let me know. I will be happy to help.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:44 PM   #7488
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19 and 22 DM-1 CB?!!.. Here I've been trying to go DOWN in gearing, to like 15/19 in my DM-1.. I assume the 2-speed has a different count then..
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:40 AM   #7489
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
19 and 22 DM-1 CB?!!.. Here I've been trying to go DOWN in gearing, to like 15/19 in my DM-1.. I assume the 2-speed has a different count then..
In his posts he explained how his chassis had a different “diff” ratio; hence the need for taller clutch bell gears in an attempt to compensate for his final drive ratio.

Here’s an analogy, call it “street racing 101”.

You have a car that comes standard with a ring & pinion ratio of “2:73 to 1”. Your goal is to gain greater torque multiplication and quicker acceleration from a standing start.

You decide to change the ring & pinion to a much more aggressive ratio of “4:88 to 1” to accomplish your goals.

In theory, your car will accelerate at nearly twice the rate of speed from a standing start using the “4:88” ring & pinion gears over the standard “2:73” ratio……….. providing you have the traction needed to control the increased torque that will be directed toward your tires.

Some off-road buggy manufactures install ring & pinion ratios very similar to the analogy written above.

These “drag race” or “short track” ring & pinion gear ratios work great for their intended application, but are at a disadvantage on bigger race tracks.

This is due to the amount of engine RPM’s needed to reach the same top speeds that “2:73 to 1” ratio ring & pinion gearing offers.

To compensate for bigger race tracks, some use very tall clutch bell gearing ratios to keep from blowing up their engines up on long straights.

This is why he uses the 19/22 clutch gearing and he states they won't be tall enough on any track longer than 200 feet.

Hope it helps!
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:01 AM   #7490
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OK, I missed the background there.. I am just having a HELL of a time finding the right bits to gear my DM-1 down, cuz stock you need a quarter mile for it to wind out.. I took the advice here and got a Kyosho bell with Evolva pinions, but now have to find some odd-shaped bearing for it, and it seems impossible to find a shop with both the Ofna 15T and 19T pinions (as opposed to 16 and 20 which is stock for the DM-1) that meet all three of the following criteria: 1.) both in stock, 2.) with a sensible price, and 3.) with sensible shipping charges. I can find shops with one, maybe two of the criteria, but not all three.....

Also, I asked in the DM-1 thread but got no answer. Should I also try 14-18, or is that too short? I don't race btw, but do run on tracks, one indoor one maybe over the winter which is fairly short.. The main outdoor ones are pretty long.. - but still, with my Nova-based REX .21 it's still working up speed at the end of a VERY long straight...
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:46 AM   #7491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
OK, I missed the background there.. I am just having a HELL of a time finding the right bits to gear my DM-1 down, cuz stock you need a quarter mile for it to wind out.. I took the advice here and got a Kyosho bell with Evolva pinions, but now have to find some odd-shaped bearing for it, and it seems impossible to find a shop with both the Ofna 15T and 19T pinions (as opposed to 16 and 20 which is stock for the DM-1) that meet all three of the following criteria: 1.) both in stock, 2.) with a sensible price, and 3.) with sensible shipping charges. I can find shops with one, maybe two of the criteria, but not all three.....

Also, I asked in the DM-1 thread but got no answer. Should I also try 14-18, or is that too short? I don't race btw, but do run on tracks, one indoor one maybe over the winter which is fairly short.. The main outdoor ones are pretty long.. - but still, with my Nova-based REX .21 it's still working up speed at the end of a VERY long straight...
The answers on you bearing situation are here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
Herrsavage,

Run the 5x12x4 bearing on the back and the 5x10x4 on the front of that Kyosho bell. You can get really good ones from AVID RC for $1.00 each. Here are the links.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

I run that bell in my Kyosho IGT1 with the Ofna DM-1 2-speed so I know it will work. And yes you are correct, it will take more than 1 pack of the shims to get the right spacing on the pinions. You can also put a shim under the flywheel collet if you need to move the whole assembly a bit more forward.

Regards,

Speyederjedi
I believe the lowest clutch bell gear ratios you can fit on your VS058 are 15/19 from the Kyosho Evolva.

You could also check with the Ofna guys to see if the Jammin truggy ring & pinions are different ratio and if they'll even fit the DM1's diffs; they could help you on the smaller tracks like I explained in the earlier post.

Sorry, can't help more, I race Kyosho.
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:32 AM   #7492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
The answers on you bearing situation are here



I believe the lowest clutch bell gear ratios you can fit on your VS058 are 15/19 from the Kyosho Evolva.

You could also check with the Ofna guys to see if the Jammin truggy ring & pinions are different ratio and if they'll even fit the DM1's diffs; they could help you on the smaller tracks like I explained in the earlier post.

Sorry, can't help more, I race Kyosho.
Yes, if you need to change diff ratios you have two options. The first is using Hot Bodies Lighting truggy diff and pinion will give you 4.3:1 diff ratio. Or you can go extreme with Jammin X2 diffs that have a 4.5:1 diff ratio. Both are direct fit and if the track is small will make a great difference in acceleration if there is enought traction. The only thing is that they are not straight cut gears so you have to shim them perfect or they can get damaged.
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:43 AM   #7493
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I appreciate the input. But honestly, I don't race, so don't want to have to stock up on multiple diffs, etc.. Just want two or three clutch-bells, or maybe spur-gears, to alter gearing for shorter or longer tracks now and then..
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:09 AM   #7494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
OK, I missed the background there.. I am just having a HELL of a time finding the right bits to gear my DM-1 down, cuz stock you need a quarter mile for it to wind out.. I took the advice here and got a Kyosho bell with Evolva pinions, but now have to find some odd-shaped bearing for it, and it seems impossible to find a shop with both the Ofna 15T and 19T pinions (as opposed to 16 and 20 which is stock for the DM-1) that meet all three of the following criteria: 1.) both in stock, 2.) with a sensible price, and 3.) with sensible shipping charges. I can find shops with one, maybe two of the criteria, but not all three.....

Also, I asked in the DM-1 thread but got no answer. Should I also try 14-18, or is that too short? I don't race btw, but do run on tracks, one indoor one maybe over the winter which is fairly short.. The main outdoor ones are pretty long.. - but still, with my Nova-based REX .21 it's still working up speed at the end of a VERY long straight...


in your recents posts i see you only did changes to pinions...have you try going up on spur gears that should help
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:20 AM   #7495
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If you reckon going up +1 on the SG's will make a decent difference, I'd try it.. God knows it's cheaper and easier to get the parts.. Keep a spare 2-speed with me anyway.. Thanks for the tip..
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:07 AM   #7496
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OK, I have a weird and probably dumb question... What's better for an overgeared car, more torqe, or more top-end RPM? I guess it depends where in the RPM range the engine makes its power.. But not having a dyno, I don't really know where my engines make their power..

I ask, oddly enough, because I'm looking for an engine for my LST2.. But people are telling me the truggy version of the LRP 30 is more powerful than the pullstart version. And I have found them going really cheaply here - the Nosram version.. Anyway, was just wondering if trying a big torque monster like the LRP 30 would push my overgeared DM-1 to top-speed faster.. Or something.. Cuz it could be neat to just break it in in the DM-1, and swap a Spinstart backplate onto it later for the LST2.. Could also even run it in my SC8... So yeah, I just like the idea of an engine that I can run in all my RC's.., and I need one for my LST2's whatever the case. Anyway, it's something I could conceivably try while waiting for my spur gears to get here from overseas...
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Last edited by Herrsavage; 11-20-2011 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:01 AM   #7497
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torque.

high rpm motors like lower gearing for easy take off and then pulling endlessly
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:27 AM   #7498
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
I appreciate the input. But honestly, I don't race, so don't want to have to stock up on multiple diffs, etc.. Just want two or three clutch-bells, or maybe spur-gears, to alter gearing for shorter or longer tracks now and then..
Herrsavage,

Here are your gear options if you are going to run the Kyosho 058 bell with your DM-1 2-speed.

Kyosho Pinions

1st gear pinions 15T 16T 17T
2nd gear pinions 19T 20T 21T


OFNA Spur Gears

1st gear spurs 47T 48T 49T
2nd gear spurs 44T 45T 46T

Hope this helps. I run this setup in my KYOSHO IGT. I've never run the 15/19 combo on the pinions. I usually run 16/20 or 17/21 with the 44/48 or 45/49 spurs. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Speyederjedi
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:37 AM   #7499
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Thanks Speyer.. I'll get around to ordering some 45 and 49 spurs over the winter sometime.. Just sucks - this'll be probably the 5th time I've had to order from abroad for rinky-dink little DM-1 parts.. For now I already have the Kyosho bell with 15 and 19 and two packs of HPI shims inbetween.. Just waiting on some X-ray bearings - then I'll probably mount it to my Argus A52 with 0801 pipe, if I don't just say fxxx it and get an LRP Spec 3... I've had four engines now in my DM-1 - an old 10+ gallon old Mach 427, Go GX-5R, and this used modded Nova 21. The last is the best, but it still lacks b.alls. I think I just need to try a .28..
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:04 AM   #7500
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Thanks Speyer.. I'll get around to ordering some 45 and 49 spurs over the winter sometime.. Just sucks - this'll be probably the 5th time I've had to order from abroad for rinky-dink little DM-1 parts.. For now I already have the Kyosho bell with 15 and 19 and two packs of HPI shims inbetween.. Just waiting on some X-ray bearings - then I'll probably mount it to my Argus A52 with 0801 pipe, if I don't just say fxxx it and get an LRP Spec 3... I've had four engines now in my DM-1 - an old 10+ gallon old Mach 427, Go GX-5R, and this used modded Nova 21. The last is the best, but it still lacks b.alls. I think I just need to try a .28..

Herrsavage,

GET THE LRP!!!! That Spec 3 is a beast. I just picked up 2 of them and broke one in. The performance is amazing. My first 45 min. A-main I went straight to the front with it and was there for the first 20+ minutes until my rear ring and pinion gave out. I had the shim wrong on that rear diff. (didn't have the parts) They came in last week and the problem has since been corrected and it's ready to rock! That LRP is better than any .21 or .28 that I've ever run in my IGT. I've got a Novarossi based Murnan Modded/James Hottinger X28 sitting in a box because the LRP is faster all across the board. I've also got a Picco Team Turbo 28, Novarossi Kangaroo 21 and Dynamite Platinum 24 and none are as good as the LRP. Good luck and if you have any other questions just post and I will try and help.

Regards,

Speyederjedi
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