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Old 04-29-2011, 04:46 AM   #5806
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Anyone tried front lock diff before? Like spool?
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Old 04-29-2011, 06:37 AM   #5807
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Anybody run an Alpha Plus Z852 green-top in their GT car? It's supposedly more of a buggy engine, with a milder bottom but screaming top-end.. There's a good deal on them at the moment where I live.. I still don't know what kind of engine - or even what size - to go with for my DM-1...
The green head engine is what was recommended by Carlton of rc pro1 for our cars. You should jump on the deal. Alpha engines are great.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:10 PM   #5808
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Found what I was looking for.
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Last edited by gashuffer; 04-29-2011 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:50 AM   #5809
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Hey, I'm trying to track this part down (in a shop where I know they have it in stock and will ship abroad), and all I'm finding is a different clutch bell with a different number and which even looks different - part # IG111 or something..

Here, at amain:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...or-Super-Eight


Will that work with the Evolva pinions and the Kyosho shims too?
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:26 PM   #5810
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Does anyone have a Kyosho 2.0 starter box and has it wired up for only 1 lipo pack? If so, how do you do it? Pics, Diagram? Thanks
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:49 PM   #5811
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Originally Posted by Pit-racer View Post
The green head engine is what was recommended by Carlton of rc pro1 for our cars. You should jump on the deal. Alpha engines are great.
+1 they are great engines ....but majority of the offroad 7-ports have great top-end....but my question to Herrsavage whats wrong with the Jammin you have?
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:39 PM   #5812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Hey, I'm trying to track this part down (in a shop where I know they have it in stock and will ship abroad), and all I'm finding is a different clutch bell with a different number and which even looks different - part # IG111 or something..

Here, at amain:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...or-Super-Eight


Will that work with the Evolva pinions and the Kyosho shims too?
No that CB wont work.

Check ebay I saw a few there
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:01 PM   #5813
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Anyone tried front lock diff before? Like spool?
I've seen people try to use 500k up front but all have switch back to lower weights since that high # takes away too much steering. I use 100k in my DM1-Spec but most all drivers use from 50k up to 150k. That includes most Kyosho GT drivers as well.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:09 PM   #5814
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Originally Posted by jneg View Post
I've seen people try to use 500k up front but all have switch back to lower weights since that high # takes away too much steering. I use 100k in my DM1-Spec but most all drivers use from 50k up to 150k. That includes most Kyosho GT drivers as well.
got it, i will try 100k first.

btw what will happen if i just use 7k front, 20k center & 2k rear? the usual buggy setting for on road?
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:33 PM   #5815
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got it, i will try 100k first.

btw what will happen if i just use 7k front, 20k center & 2k rear? the usual buggy setting for on road?
30F 100C 10-20R is a good starting point
If you dont have a center diff, 5-10Rear.

soft springs and stiff sway bars
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:35 PM   #5816
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Originally Posted by SuperEk4 View Post
Anyone tried front lock diff before? Like spool?
A spool would be really hard on the front universals, but I have used one in the center diff on my electric conversion.
I'm not sure the car will turn real well unless you have one way bearings up front like the 1/8 on-road cars (serpent, mugen, etc.). When I remeber who makes the one I used I'll let you know. It replaces the gears with an aluminum block inside the diff case.
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:40 PM   #5817
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Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
Does anyone have a Kyosho 2.0 starter box and has it wired up for only 1 lipo pack? If so, how do you do it? Pics, Diagram? Thanks
My Kyosho 2.0 starter box is wired for a single 4S lipo. The motors are wired in series. With 14.8 volts and a good lipo, the motors do not stall like they did with NMH batteries on a tight engine. I did replace the wire with 12 guage silicone and removed the switch because of the current draw. All the connections are soldered.

I'll try to take a picture tonight.
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Old 05-01-2011, 04:25 PM   #5818
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Originally Posted by williamw View Post
My Kyosho 2.0 starter box is wired for a single 4S lipo. The motors are wired in series. With 14.8 volts and a good lipo, the motors do not stall like they did with NMH batteries on a tight engine. I did replace the wire with 12 guage silicone and removed the switch because of the current draw. All the connections are soldered.

I'll try to take a picture tonight.
A picture would work for me. How do you wire in a series?
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:23 PM   #5819
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Originally Posted by williamw View Post
A spool would be really hard on the front universals, but I have used one in the center diff on my electric conversion.
I'm not sure the car will turn real well unless you have one way bearings up front like the 1/8 on-road cars (serpent, mugen, etc.). When I remeber who makes the one I used I'll let you know. It replaces the gears with an aluminum block inside the diff case.
Yes, the diff cup will wear out so fast. I hv tried in 1/10 tc before but the braking is great with no spin out.

Let me know if u hv any new findings thx man!
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:54 PM   #5820
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Quote:
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A picture would work for me. How do you wire in a series?
did you check the link i put on the other thread it had pics
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