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Old 04-02-2011, 12:48 PM   #5491
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I was thinking the OS .19 speed tuned for the open class. ; )
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:20 PM   #5492
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I was thinking the OS .19 speed tuned for the open class. ; )
It would probably be an ideal engine for medium to short track racing where you don't need a ton of low end and top end power. If it is not too expense, it would fit the bill at most parking lot club tracks that are running open-style GT racing.
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:37 PM   #5493
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can we talk setups etc/// like ive been hearing 2 different ways to setup, and im not sure, if its foam, and rubber as they are completely different, i heard of running pretty much zero droop, guys cranking springs down dont know how far or what exactly that means> and using droop screws for ride height? what ever happened to droop blocks and gauges, and getting setups from there...and there are those as well, again not sure if directed at foam or rubber, you guys want this class to grow etc, we need to start talking on howto get these cars to hook up the best way possible, go on any other car thread, its all about cat setup, here its petty fighting, that honestly is turning me AWAY from gt racing. I run the kyosho IGT2 car, with all the goddies, this roller is well over the cost of a toy, yet i haven't a clue on where or how to set it up? NOW THAT SUX!!! another thing the rubber vs foam deal, well i guess ill have to figure on my own how to setup for both, as certain tracks run one or the other etc...WE NEED SETUP TALK ON HERE FOLKS.....I mean you are RACING them aren't you?..the better we get em setup, and the more people run them right, the better they will look to future drivers of the class. i mean when i ran my mrx4x last year, it was on point, we had a base line, and went from there, NOT 2 COMPLETELY different baselines, and a good luck it works for me, and send u on your way....NOT RANTING, just searchin thse pages, and besides all the b.s. lil kid fighting, i really dont see much on setup advise at all?
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:57 PM   #5494
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I raced my Kyosho Inferno GT this past weekend at the 1st Annual Kyosho Nitrofest event at Tampa’s new SS Speedway in Tampa Florida.

My IGT performed very well in the “Spec” class “A Main” for 30 minutes, was a blast to drive, I finished in 2nd place on the lead lap, including me being dumb & running out of fuel at the 1st fuel stop at the start of the race. I lost 6 laps to the field and somehow was able to make it up by the end.

My fastest lap times with the “stock” .28 engine were within 4 seconds of the fastest 200mm Nitro cars and will certainly improve with more set-up time with the Inferno GT.

I did make some “set-up” changes to the “box-stock” car that worked very well for me & I wish to share with anyone racing the Kyosho Inferno GT cars.

Kyosho Austin Martin Body
Kyosho IGT Heavy Sway Bars Front & Rear
Kyosho V-Slick 55 Shore Rubber Tires
Werks Racing Fuel
75W shock oil all around
50K Diff Silicon Front
10K Diff Silicon Rear
1 ½ Neg Camber Front
2 Neg Camber Rear
1 ½ Toe-Out Front

The Kyosho Inferno GT “Spec” class racing was exciting and looked very realistic.

Now more than ever, I know the Kyosho IGT will be the new “fun” & inexpensive class in On-Road R/C racing for 2008 and beyond.
Tommyblazin,

Here is a good baseline setup to try and deviate from. I started with this one but changed a couple of things to fit my driving style better. This was developed for rubber tire racing but I am sure with some deviations, you can adapt it to foam tire running. Hope that this helps.
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:00 PM   #5495
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Tommyblazin,

Here is a good baseline setup to try and deviate from. I started with this one but changed a couple of things to fit my driving style better. This was developed for rubber tire racing but I am sure with some deviations, you can adapt it to foam tire running. Hope that this helps.
thanks, i am more interested in the droop or lack of droop, i hear of "cranking springs" and setting ride height with droop screws? if thats so , how hard u cranking etc...i much rather prefer using my droop blocks and gauge, and go from there, seems most are running pretty much NO droop,the car rotates like this?>
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:52 PM   #5496
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I was thinking the OS .19 speed tuned for the open class. ; )
The engine was really developed for better fuel mileage, and of course less torque will work better in slippery conditions. I don't think it would work well on a really hooked up GT car, would'nt have any punch out of the corners. JMO.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:18 PM   #5497
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I was thinking the OS .19 speed tuned for the open class. ; )
+1, had no idea it was in the "Speed" family, lol
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:26 PM   #5498
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thanks, i am more interested in the droop or lack of droop, i hear of "cranking springs" and setting ride height with droop screws? if thats so , how hard u cranking etc...i much rather prefer using my droop blocks and gauge, and go from there, seems most are running pretty much NO droop,the car rotates like this?>
Here's an old set-up from 2007 that worked pretty good back in the day with lower traction levels. It allowed for good weight transfer to plant the older rubber tires too.



These days I think most are running lower droop settings because of increased traction levels available today. It could still be a good base today in loose conditions.
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:51 AM   #5499
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I have to admit, kind of like the way the 8th GT look and move on track, though never seen one in the flesh, just the online clips.

Couple of questions out of basic interest, does a converted buggy with mods work anywhere near as well as the OFNA or Kyosho?, and what do you base heat times off with GT? (as in say a tank of nitro gets you what?), with my last question being how do the GT tyres last?.
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Old 04-03-2011, 02:00 AM   #5500
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I like this class a lot. Doesn't exist where I live, but I love the concept. Basic 1/8 platform, fairly simple, cheap, runs great with budget buggy/truggy/MT engines...
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:44 AM   #5501
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Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
Couple of questions out of basic interest, does a converted buggy with mods work anywhere near as well as the OFNA or Kyosho?, and what do you base heat times off with GT? (as in say a tank of nitro gets you what?), with my last question being how do the GT tyres last?.
Kyosho IS a converted buggy. Instead of the center diff it has a tranny, that's the biggest difference along with shorter and stiffer shocks and a closed wheel body.

DM1 is more "spec" to the street including it's chassis.

I'd say a 150ml tank gives around 6 minutes of driving. Can be less, can be more depending on how hard you can hammer the throttle. And how rich you have to drive for proper cooling (varies per motor).

On a 20-22sec lap track "open class" GT is like 1-2 seconds slower than 1/10th scale on foam tires.
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:01 AM   #5502
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As far as tires lasting, this varies to driving style, track conditions and what shore/rating you are running with. They can last anywhere to 1 week to up to 3 months. Taking car of your tires by cleaning and inspecting after every race day also helps in their longevity. Happy racing.
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:09 AM   #5503
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speaking on cleaning, in offroad simple green works wonders and softens the rubber? do you wipe clean simple green between runs <rubber tires> and is anyone using and tire additive for rubber tires, ive sen trinity makes some, etc...like the paragon for foam on carpet....
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:18 AM   #5504
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Yes, tires cleaning by this same method is mostly used. Just make sure they are dry when you put them on the track. I've been trying some of the other additives to see their effects on tires and performance on the track. I don't use foams on my GT8 so can't help on that. Have used on my 200mm and works fine though.
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:00 AM   #5505
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I use simple green wipes before each run!
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