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Old 10-29-2010, 04:10 PM   #4486
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Originally Posted by bobbyblaze View Post
my setup pretty much like Jneg but i use stock springs, 3.5 rear toe, 20,000 front diff....Jneg are you using stock or stand up towers?
I'm using the maxvelocityracing.com carbon kit that stands up the shocks. With these towers you can use the stock front shocks.
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:27 PM   #4487
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I would like to get some info on setting up possibly a GT 2 class to run at our 2 large tracks, where we currently have a good size 8th scale class and 10th scale class. I'm thinking the GT2 class might make the most sense to complement our current intermediate to expert racers. Could someone state the rules and specs for such a class and what kits and additonal parts, if any, are needed to make it competitive race ready. We would like to select a spec rubber tire if possible, so any recommendations would be appreciated. Our tracks, one permanent the other temporary, are med to med high grip.
What we did for our series was to apply the least amount of rules as possible.
  1. For example we allow any factory GT kit or RTR (Kyosho, Thunder Tiger, OFNA, etc.) but only shaft drive models are allowed. All buggy conversions are OK also.
  2. Only rubber tires are allowed but they can be any brand, Ipanema, Sweep, GRP, Alpha RC and OFNAs are common. NO FOAM TIRES ARE ALLOWED
  3. With the bodies they have to be scale looking GT cars, no Lola bodies are allowed.
  4. The motor must be inside the body, no bumps to clear the heads are allowed.
  5. No "adjustable centax style" or "slider" type clutch units allowed, Only 2, 3 & 4 shoe non-adjustable buggy based systems are OK.
  6. Fuel Capacity: All cars can only have 1 fuel tank with a maximum tank capacity of 150cc.
  7. No "D-Box" or "Drift-Box" electronics systems permitted.
  8. Motor rules are open since most of us did or are racing offroad and we can use basically the same motors (this allows the old retired cars and motors to still have a few gallons of nitro to burn).

You can also use these rules as where used during the 2010 GT Worlds. They can be found here:
http://gtworldchampionships.com/GT1ClassRules.aspx

Good luck with your series!
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:49 PM   #4488
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Originally Posted by jneg View Post
What we did for our series was to apply the least amount of rules as possible.
  1. For example we allow any factory GT kit or RTR (Kyosho, Thunder Tiger, OFNA, etc.) but only shaft drive models are allowed. All buggy conversions are OK also.
  2. Only rubber tires are allowed but they can be any brand, Ipanema, Sweep, GRP, Alpha RC and OFNAs are common. NO FOAM TIRES ARE ALLOWED
  3. With the bodies they have to be scale looking GT cars, no Lola bodies are allowed.
  4. The motor must be inside the body, no bumps to clear the heads are allowed.
  5. No "adjustable centax style" or "slider" type clutch units allowed, Only 2, 3 & 4 shoe non-adjustable buggy based systems are OK.
  6. Fuel Capacity: All cars can only have 1 fuel tank with a maximum tank capacity of 150cc.
  7. No "D-Box" or "Drift-Box" electronics systems permitted.
  8. Motor rules are open since most of us did or are racing offroad and we can use basically the same motors (this allows the old retired cars and motors to still have a few gallons of nitro to burn).

You can also use these rules as where used during the 2010 GT Worlds. They can be found here:
http://gtworldchampionships.com/GT1ClassRules.aspx

Good luck with your series!

i like those ..keeping it simple
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:09 PM   #4489
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Guys thank you for the help I will try it all! Just to let you guys know we run foam tires. I guess I should have said that. Sorry
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:43 PM   #4490
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Hey guys,

Just found this thread and have always been interested in 1/8 on-road. I am interested in converting my Jammin buggy over to an on-road GT car. I should note I run brushless electric, not nitro, but that aside the basics of conversion from a buggy to on-road should be pretty much the same for either right?

The main thing I am wondering is if this chassis would be suitable for my GT on-road conversion. I bought it some time ago for my Jammin, and I was going to build it for off-road, but this thread has got me motivated to do an on-road. It is made by Moos Racing from Denmark. I am kind of a carbon-fiber junky, and was wondering if making custom CF shock towers would be more suited for on-road use, or can I use the stock Jammin X2 CF towers?

I am sure I will have many questions during my upcoming build (or rebuild I guess is more appropriate), and appreciate any and all help. Looking through this thread has already been very helpful and given me many ideas and tips.

Here is chassis pic:

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Old 10-30-2010, 08:44 AM   #4491
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That a nice chassis but but with on road you don't need the kick up you might push too much with so much caster.

I make carbon tower for the DM1 Spec that should bolt right up to the Jammin gear box with no mod.
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:29 AM   #4492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplechamp View Post
Hey guys,

Just found this thread and have always been interested in 1/8 on-road. I am interested in converting my Jammin buggy over to an on-road GT car. I should note I run brushless electric, not nitro, but that aside the basics of conversion from a buggy to on-road should be pretty much the same for either right?

The main thing I am wondering is if this chassis would be suitable for my GT on-road conversion. I bought it some time ago for my Jammin, and I was going to build it for off-road, but this thread has got me motivated to do an on-road. It is made by Moos Racing from Denmark. I am kind of a carbon-fiber junky, and was wondering if making custom CF shock towers would be more suited for on-road use, or can I use the stock Jammin X2 CF towers?

I am sure I will have many questions during my upcoming build (or rebuild I guess is more appropriate), and appreciate any and all help. Looking through this thread has already been very helpful and given me many ideas and tips.

Here is chassis pic:

That chassis should work just fine. Our Kyosho GT cars are factory converted MP7.5 for GT1 and ST-R for GT2 and they both have kick-up.
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:54 AM   #4493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby Horton1 View Post
Guys thank you for the help I will try it all! Just to let you guys know we run foam tires. I guess I should have said that. Sorry
my setup good for foam as well
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Old 10-30-2010, 01:44 PM   #4494
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Thanks for your info on the GT2 rules. Do you have any suggestions on which GT2 spec chassis and or rtr kit, plus any additional parts, if any are needed to make the chassis race competitive to get? Can anyone suggest a chassis set up, for each mfg brand chassis, for a large, 250' plus straight with technical sections
. Tracks are med to med/high bite traction surfaces?

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2010, 01:57 PM   #4495
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Default revo shock conversion...?

hey guys I have a ultra mbx buggy , I am going to convert it to a gtp sort of !!...I was going to buy the GTP front tower and shocks,but was told of a revo shock conversion ? has anyone done this ?...and thoughts?....if so where can I get a look at a car that has been done?....if not does any one have a set of front shocks for a ofna GTP they would like to sell ? what happend was a trade that was supposed to be a GTP but ended up a MBX buggy, so I gotta convert it.it is going to be a car to let others drive to pull them into 1/8 RC I realy don't feel comfortable letting others run mine.....lol..can you help a guy out ?....
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Old 10-30-2010, 02:01 PM   #4496
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You can go to their web site at, WWW.timezoneracing.com, for an idea of one of the tracks we would be racing at, to get a picture. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-30-2010, 02:28 PM   #4497
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That a nice chassis but but with on road you don't need the kick up you might push too much with so much caster.

I make carbon tower for the DM1 Spec that should bolt right up to the Jammin gear box with no mod.
OK thanks for the advice. I will definitely check out your DM1 Spec CF towers, they sound perfect. Will it be possible to reduce the overall caster based on what hinge-pin holders I use? I remember the Jammin having A-type and B-type for the FR upper and lower holders. I will have to lookup what the different types mean.

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That chassis should work just fine. Our Kyosho GT cars are factory converted MP7.5 for GT1 and ST-R for GT2 and they both have kick-up.
I can see there is some debate as to the kickup vs. no kickup on the chassis. The Kyosho IGT seems like a popular vehicle, so they must do alright with the kickup. Since I am just a basher and drive for fun (unfortunately no on-road or off-road tracks in my area to race) I don't think the kickup on the chassis will make too much of a difference.

Do they do anything on the IGT with the hinge-pin holders or c-hubs and knuckles to reduce overall caster, or it the same as with the buggies they are based on?

EDIT: One more question. I have an assortment of diff crown gears and pinions, is there any in particular I should run so I can gear properly for on-road use? I can do 45/10 with the newer spiral/helical-cut gears, or 43/13 or 45/13 with the older standard-cut gears. For the center diff I will be running 46T Slipperential, but I could change the spur if needed.

I usually use this gearing calc to figure out my gearing for off-road stuff: http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html

Just not sure if I should be looking for a certain FDR or rollout with an on-road setup. For my off-roads I've always had success gearing for 40mph and keeping the rollout between 1 and 1.5
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Last edited by simplechamp; 10-30-2010 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 10-30-2010, 04:01 PM   #4498
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If you're running the Kyosho IGT, these are the ones to get.
IF21 (13T)
IF106 (43T)

Both are straight cuts and are much stronger than the stock spiral gears.
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Old 10-30-2010, 04:01 PM   #4499
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Do they do anything on the IGT with the hinge-pin holders or c-hubs and knuckles to reduce overall caster, or it the same as with the buggies they are based on?

EDIT: One more question. I have an assortment of diff crown gears and pinions, is there any in particular I should run so I can gear properly for on-road use? I can do 45/10 with the newer spiral/helical-cut gears, or 43/13 or 45/13 with the older standard-cut gears. For the center diff I will be running 46T Slipperential, but I could change the spur if needed.
The IGT has the same exact suspension as the off road with the exception of the shock towers and the shocks.

The IGT uses the spiral cut ring and pinion from the Mad Force trucks, which is 43/13
Part number on my site is KYOMA050
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Old 10-30-2010, 05:28 PM   #4500
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Since I already have an assortment of gears on hand I would like use them up before buying new ones. So I think the 43/13 straight cut will do for now. They do have a very slight arc to the teeth (Jammin even calls them spiral cut), but not anywhere close to true spiral cut gears available today. You can see what I mean:



I think the Jammin can use the same diffs and pinions as the IGT though, so next time I need to purchase gears I'll look into the Kyosho 43/13 spiral cut you suggested. They seem to be much cheaper than the Jammin gears. Thanks for the advice.
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