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Old 03-02-2009, 07:53 AM   #1936
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Nice job Juan, to finish first you first must finish. What durometer ipanema tires were you running?
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:30 AM   #1937
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Nice job Juan, to finish first you first must finish. What durometer ipanema tires were you running?
Thanks Will. I was a bit lucky as well. I was running Ipanema 45s in the front and Ipanema 40s in the rear. I changed to the Kyosho 46/40 2-speed gear combo with the Kyosho 15/21 clutchbell gears. This combo worked very well for the big track, especially moving the shift point back and meshing the gears very tight (thanks Zootcapri for the tip). Oh, make sure you upgrade the brakes because the stock brakes with fade quickly, especially if you use any type of drag braking.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:34 AM   #1938
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Thanks Will. I was a bit lucky as well. I was running Ipanema 45s in the front and Ipanema 40s in the rear. I changed to the Kyosho 46/40 2-speed gear combo with the Kyosho 15/21 clutchbell gears. This combo worked very well for the big track, especially moving the shift point back and meshing the gears very tight (thanks Zootcapri for the tip). Oh, make sure you upgrade the brakes because the stock brakes with fade quickly, especially if you use any type of drag braking.
I have had better luck on our track with Ipanema 45 shore tires in the front and rear. Have you had a chance to try that yet?

The only time that the 40s in the rear worked better for me was when I was running heavy rear diff oil. I later found that my car was easier to drive and faster with light rear diff oil and 45 shore Ipanemas in the rear.

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Old 03-02-2009, 09:06 AM   #1939
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I have had better luck on our track with Ipanema 45 shore tires in the front and rear. Have you had a chance to try that yet?

The only time that the 40s in the rear worked better for me was when I was running heavy rear diff oil. I later found that my car was easier to drive and faster with light rear diff oil and 45 shore Ipanemas in the rear.

Lee
I have used 45s in the rear before. However, it was very cold racing this past weekend (high temps did not get out of the 50s) with below freezing temps in the morning with 20mph+ winds blowing. The track took a long time to come in due to the cold temps and conditions. With 45s on the rear with my setup, the rear was sliding in the corners, at time, spinning out. So, I changed to the 40s and that did the trick (started with 45s on all four corners). When racing in Memphis, TN, I had to run 40s in the front and 45s in the rear. My car was on rails with that combo and I have TQ both races I attended.

Juan
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:18 PM   #1940
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Thanks Juan! I hope to see you at the Biggie or maybe a series race or two.

Will
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:40 PM   #1941
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Good to hear Juan and congrats!
Do you mean by "shift point back" changing earlier on lower rpm ?
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:25 PM   #1942
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Good to hear Juan and congrats!
Do you mean by "shift point back" changing earlier on lower rpm ?
Thanks MikaR. This was the first time running my car on a track this big and I, like the others, did not know how the cars or engines would handle the very large track. No, I was meaning changing it to shift a bit later from stock setting to utilize the entire range of the engine's power and not to wind the engine running a long time in second gear. If you check out the pic of the track on www.rcrcnt.com, you will see what I mean, especially the backstretch and the main sweeper. But, the 46/40 gearing worked like a charm and my engine temps never went above 220F degrees.
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:56 AM   #1943
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Jlock I was wondering what kind of set up you were running on your car like shock oil? Diff oil? Springs?
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:58 AM   #1944
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Sounds great! Thanks
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:14 AM   #1945
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Thanks MikaR. This was the first time running my car on a track this big and I, like the others, did not know how the cars or engines would handle the very large track. No, I was meaning changing it to shift a bit later from stock setting to utilize the entire range of the engine's power and not to wind the engine running a long time in second gear. If you check out the pic of the track on www.rcrcnt.com, you will see what I mean, especially the backstretch and the main sweeper. But, the 46/40 gearing worked like a charm and my engine temps never went above 220F degrees.

Juan, when I ran the GT2 last November at the Vegas track I was running the stock engine/pipe/gearing and found if I had it shift earlier the torque of the engine pulled the gearing just fine and my lap times dropped. Your mileage may vary... but it was weird to almost ignore first gear and get it to wind up in second. It was faster with the stock configuration on that track to shift early.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:36 AM   #1946
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Juan, when I ran the GT2 last November at the Vegas track I was running the stock engine/pipe/gearing and found if I had it shift earlier the torque of the engine pulled the gearing just fine and my lap times dropped. Your mileage may vary... but it was weird to almost ignore first gear and get it to wind up in second. It was faster with the stock configuration on that track to shift early.
I will see if I ever get the stock engine broken in on my IGT2. I was running my IGT1 with a Sportwerks M26 pullstart in which the powerband is a bit different either of the stockers that come with the IGT1/IGT2. I was able to pull those OS 28xz engines in first and when it shifted about a 1/3rd of the way down the backstretch, I was able to stretch the lead or maintain my distance from the competition. On our track, I could get about 5.5 to 6 minutes out of a tank running hard (and my settings are still too rich). My temps coming off the track after a qualifying run was as low as 163F degrees to as high as 220F degrees. I am impressed with how well the Sportwerks engine has been running for a $130 out-of-pocket cost.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:09 AM   #1947
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Still trying to find out if any one has changed there stock set and if so to what are you running now. Shock oil? , Diff Oil, ? Springs?
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:15 AM   #1948
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I will see if I ever get the stock engine broken in on my IGT2. I was running my IGT1 with a Sportwerks M26 pullstart in which the powerband is a bit different either of the stockers that come with the IGT1/IGT2. I was able to pull those OS 28xz engines in first and when it shifted about a 1/3rd of the way down the backstretch, I was able to stretch the lead or maintain my distance from the competition. On our track, I could get about 5.5 to 6 minutes out of a tank running hard (and my settings are still too rich). My temps coming off the track after a qualifying run was as low as 163F degrees to as high as 220F degrees. I am impressed with how well the Sportwerks engine has been running for a $130 out-of-pocket cost.
I found the info contained in the link below very interesting. I do not know how accurate this is but it does confirm to me that virtually any .28 engine has more power than the stock Kyosho IGT engine. What we are trying to do in our series is have all the cars have equal performance from a HP standpoint.

I know some clubs have said that you can use any engine that cost less that $xxx but a careful review of the info at this site shows that there a a HUGE difference in HP between the engines. I do not want to make a person who has a brand new car have to buy a different engine in order to be able to race. That is why we are going to require a Kyosho kit engine.

Lee

http://hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1419
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:35 AM   #1949
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I found the info contained in the link below very interesting. I do not know how accurate this is but it does confirm to me that virtually any .28 engine has more power than the stock Kyosho IGT engine. What we are trying to do in our series is have all the cars have equal performance from a HP standpoint.

I know some clubs have said that you can use any engine that cost less that $xxx but a careful review of the info at this site shows that there a a HUGE difference in HP between the engines. I do not what to make a person who has a brand new car have to buy a different engine in order to be able to race. That is why we are going to require a Kyosho kit engine.

Lee

http://hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1419
This is what I helped Bvoltz come up with as far as a list of engines for the "spec" class when we were running these cars in the Bass Pro Series in Jackson, MS:

1. OS .21VG-X, part # OSMG 2059
2. Sportwerks .26 V2 pull start, part # SWK 8085
3. Dynamite Mach .26 pull start, part # DYN 0887
4. Dynamite Mach 427 pull start, part # DYN 0895
5. OFNA Force .28 pull start, part #52217
6. Axial .28 spec 1s pull start, part #AX001 (green), part #AX002 (black)


All of the engines were comparable as far as HP was concerned and all were at a low cost. We did not require a racer to change to any of these over the stock engine in the car, but, if they were having difficulties with their stock engine, these were the replacements that could be substituted. So, a racer could run the RTR engine that came in the car or change to one of these. This was also done as not to leave the LHS out since most of these are carried or easily acquired by the LHSs where we raced. The Texas series (SWCS), we decided to also have an open class where anything goes as far as engine choices because some guys like to spend tons of monies on that stuff. But as far as "spec", the box engines or one from the above list only, no exceptions!!

Oh, thanks for the link. Very useful info as far as true engine HP.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:39 AM   #1950
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Still trying to find out if any one has changed there stock set and if so to what are you running now. Shock oil? , Diff Oil, ? Springs?
For our spec class, you have to use the stock springs that comes on the car. You could use any diff oil or shock oil of your choosing. Camber and front toe are allowed to be adjusted to suit the racer's driving style. Sorry for being generic but what works for me may not work for others.
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