Trinity G4 - Team Magic G4 E-Type
03-30-2004, 09:57 AM
#841
Cool.... Mine is all silver Hey, I notice that you don't use the alum hex wheel and rear belt tensioner. Go get 'em !!! Those are the most important optional parts for G4.
03-30-2004, 10:12 AM
#842
03-30-2004, 11:24 AM
#843
Tech Regular
think he probably meant this,the link you put on is for a mugen
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=403&page=1
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=403&page=1
03-30-2004, 11:40 AM
#844
Whoops........thanks Jas1!!
03-30-2004, 04:12 PM
#845
Originally posted by jas1
think he probably meant this,the link you put on is for a mugen
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=403&page=1
think he probably meant this,the link you put on is for a mugen
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=403&page=1
And for the alu hex : K1418 G4 Alu Clamp Hex Whl Hub (4)
03-30-2004, 07:27 PM
#846
Get the "Radio Control Car Action"
Just got my new "Radio Control Car Action" today. And on page 140 "How to Prep Your Nitro Tourer with Joel Johnson". We have Joel giving his advice racing your nitro with his hopped up G4....... He's a Trinity Driver, correct??? 
03-30-2004, 08:12 PM
#847
Tweaked chassis
Hey, I just found something out on my G4. After about 20 or 30 tanks, I have noticed a bit of tweak in my stock chassis. I could literally take the wheels off and rock it back and forth on a flat surface. I just installed a aluminum middle mount and aluminum transponder kit. That totally fixed my tweaked chassis. Plus its stiffer. I can't wait to get it on the track now.
I always had a bit of a problem with the rear wheels getting loose when I brake hard. Hopefully this will improve it.
I always had a bit of a problem with the rear wheels getting loose when I brake hard. Hopefully this will improve it.
03-30-2004, 08:36 PM
#848
Aluminum Transponder Kit??? Haven't seen that one. Cool so it sounds like some more hop ups to add.
03-30-2004, 08:43 PM
#849
Originally posted by Nitropimp
Aluminum Transponder Kit??? Haven't seen that one. Cool so it sounds like some more hop ups to add.
Aluminum Transponder Kit??? Haven't seen that one. Cool so it sounds like some more hop ups to add.
03-30-2004, 08:45 PM
#850
Yeah my bad k1427
Aluminum servo mount.
Aluminum servo mount.
03-31-2004, 06:23 PM
#851
Tech Fanatic
nitropimp.... I'll have to check that out... Good post. What new things did he add to his G4 and any setup tips??? Josh Cyrul also was in RC Car Action last year and had a few things to say about the G4...
RC_Alan
RC_Alan
04-01-2004, 06:17 AM
#852
Tech Adept
Jas1,
hiya, how did tibby went last wekend ?
Do you have any data on FTD, car types and engine used in the open final ?
Thanks
hiya, how did tibby went last wekend ?
Do you have any data on FTD, car types and engine used in the open final ?
Thanks
04-01-2004, 07:54 AM
#853
Tech Rookie
Whee my G4 just arrived from RCNUT, I am so stoked I am gonna get one of those engines from him,
wooties
wooties
04-01-2004, 08:03 AM
#854
My G4 will probably arrive in a week or so too 
What engines do you recommend guys / gals? My sponsor wants me to run mostly LRP and Picco engines and what do you think of them?
I have a JP Nova engine since last year in my boxes somewhere that i used in my V-One RR last year, will probably run that engine in training sessions
What options is a must have then? I'm thinking of buying the alum. servosaver for less wear
What engines do you recommend guys / gals? My sponsor wants me to run mostly LRP and Picco engines and what do you think of them?
I have a JP Nova engine since last year in my boxes somewhere that i used in my V-One RR last year, will probably run that engine in training sessions
What options is a must have then? I'm thinking of buying the alum. servosaver for less wear
04-01-2004, 01:12 PM
#855
RC Car Action Tips from Joel...
Sorry guy’s about the late post but my computer keeps crashing.
Rc_Alan basically what Joel said was:
1. Polish the Hinge Pins and Pivot Balls. Use a dremel and some polishing compound and buff those baby’s out.
2. Make sure suspension arm is free from binds. To test your assembly for binding, remove the shocks and see if the suspension arms fall under their own weight. If they don’t, you’ve got some freeing up to do. And then he tells you how to free up binds ie..hinge pins..
3. Smoother belts. This was one I never heard. Soak all your drive belts in WD-40 24 to 48 hours before a race. Free spinning drive train is the key to speed.
4. Drive cup wear prevention. Basically what he says is to put some grease in the pins of the CVD’s or Uni’s
5. This is good one especially on the G4. Change the Chasis Phillips head screws to a 4-40 Hex head screws.
6. Save weight with aluminum hardware. I.e. Aluminum screws on servo’s, aluminum hop ups etc…
7. Low CG Servo Mounting. Basically mount the servo as low as possible by putting it under the radio tray-NOT on the top. Don’t let it hit the chasis because this could lead to servo failure.
8. Lower the engine. Use Low CG motor mounts.
9. Sand the edges of graphite parts and put CA glue over the edge. I’ve heard of this tip from other pro’s.
10. This is going to hard to describe. I use zip ties on my other Nitro cars but this is pretty cool. Maybe I can take pic (I don’t have scanner) with my camera to show you guys this. But basically use two long Zip ties and go from the gas tank through the engine ending at the back underneath the rear body post mount.
11. Use an electric car motor pinion gear for your brake adjustments.
12. Less fuel line, have the same volume. This tip was interesting I’m old school have tons fuel tubing for fuel pressure. But Joel saying use a volume increasing canister or a big fuel filter and gut it.
13. Set your endpoints on your radio properly. Can damage your servo’s with servo bind.
14. Servo Linkage setup. Keep your linkage perpendicular to the servo arm as much as possible.
15. Fuel proof your on/off switch. Use a switch cover.
that's all folks.......
Rc_Alan basically what Joel said was:
1. Polish the Hinge Pins and Pivot Balls. Use a dremel and some polishing compound and buff those baby’s out.
2. Make sure suspension arm is free from binds. To test your assembly for binding, remove the shocks and see if the suspension arms fall under their own weight. If they don’t, you’ve got some freeing up to do. And then he tells you how to free up binds ie..hinge pins..
3. Smoother belts. This was one I never heard. Soak all your drive belts in WD-40 24 to 48 hours before a race. Free spinning drive train is the key to speed.
4. Drive cup wear prevention. Basically what he says is to put some grease in the pins of the CVD’s or Uni’s
5. This is good one especially on the G4. Change the Chasis Phillips head screws to a 4-40 Hex head screws.
6. Save weight with aluminum hardware. I.e. Aluminum screws on servo’s, aluminum hop ups etc…
7. Low CG Servo Mounting. Basically mount the servo as low as possible by putting it under the radio tray-NOT on the top. Don’t let it hit the chasis because this could lead to servo failure.
8. Lower the engine. Use Low CG motor mounts.
9. Sand the edges of graphite parts and put CA glue over the edge. I’ve heard of this tip from other pro’s.
10. This is going to hard to describe. I use zip ties on my other Nitro cars but this is pretty cool. Maybe I can take pic (I don’t have scanner) with my camera to show you guys this. But basically use two long Zip ties and go from the gas tank through the engine ending at the back underneath the rear body post mount.
11. Use an electric car motor pinion gear for your brake adjustments.
12. Less fuel line, have the same volume. This tip was interesting I’m old school have tons fuel tubing for fuel pressure. But Joel saying use a volume increasing canister or a big fuel filter and gut it.
13. Set your endpoints on your radio properly. Can damage your servo’s with servo bind.
14. Servo Linkage setup. Keep your linkage perpendicular to the servo arm as much as possible.
15. Fuel proof your on/off switch. Use a switch cover.
that's all folks.......