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Old 10-14-2009, 09:59 AM   #1246
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When I say 1 to 1.5 hours, I don't mean that they will never last longer than that, just that you will never strip or break one if you change them that often. I have seen them go shortly after one hour, but NEVER before then unless something was very wrong. Sure, it very well MIGHT last 5 hours but if it strips at 5.1 hours right in the middle of a main, you just lost I hate that. So for big races, 1.5 hours at most. Club races I will run them until they go. Of course, I also have monster HP, super hard hitting clutches, an aggressive driving style and sometimes run a lot of overdrive so I'm harder on them than others.
Have you tried the Serpent belt dressing? I have been using it for all of my cars and it softens up the belts, and makes them more pliable. You only put it on the outside of the belts.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:44 AM   #1247
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I tried making this modification using an extra side belt tensioner that I had laying around.The problem I had was the belt was in the way of the servo saver when steering. How did you lower the saver without having excessive play,and what did you use to mount the flange bearings. Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-14-2009, 02:43 PM   #1248
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If you hold the front tires and try turning the rear tires while watching the 16t pulley you will see the belt lifts off the pully so only a couple of teeth are now in contact. So when you crash or run up side some boards with the power on a few teeth will strip. If you put a roller or tensioner on top of the pully to keep the belt in contact with more teeth under stress the belts dont strip anymore. The belt also doesnt need to be tight. I made mine with a pipe mount, hinge pin and some very small bearings. It was very easy to make.
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:46 PM   #1249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmh View Post
I tried making this modification using an extra side belt tensioner that I had laying around.The problem I had was the belt was in the way of the servo saver when steering. How did you lower the saver without having excessive play,and what did you use to mount the flange bearings. Thanks for the info.
Kenny Howard

This is not used as a tensioner but only to keep the belt on his place.
If you place the bearings not that low then it is only enough to grind an edge on the saver.
Lowerig the saver can be done with a milling machine. Just shorten the under edge with +/- 3mm, use a 10mm drill/cutter in the hole of the lower bearing in the saver and cut out +/-3mm. Now when building up the saver it is lowered by +/-3mm so you need some o-rings to fill it up on the top.
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Old 10-17-2009, 10:04 AM   #1250
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Quick question, i just bought a brand new 4X from a friend and he has a switch for the receiver, should i remove the switch and run it direct? or should i just leave the switch?, I remember before we ran it with out the switch but i don't know what others do today, thanks in advance!
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Old 10-17-2009, 10:06 AM   #1251
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Take the switch out and plug it direct. Those switches fail and you might have a runaway!
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:52 PM   #1252
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Take the switch out and plug it direct. Those switches fail and you might have a runaway!
I have seen the same thing happen to direct plug cars due to broken wires or plugs from all the constant plugging and unplugging. Use a GOOD switch and you wont have any problems.
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:09 PM   #1253
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I use thick Y cable extension, .... one connector goes to receiver and the other two extensions are connected to battery and transponder. By using Y extension, you protect receiver's battery terminals from frequent plug in - plug out. Longer lasting radio equipments.

Thick cable is also important too .... which is to feed high load current for two servos and receiver, ie. no glitching.

and lastly please keep wires short and tidy..... my friend one time lost control of his car ( damage the whole car on straight line ) because of messy wiring ..... his battery connectors were scrubbing the asphalt accidentally.
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:11 PM   #1254
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If you are going to go the direct plug route I have two words for you:

MINI DEANS
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:59 PM   #1255
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Hello guys, I want to start buying some light parts for my MRX4X, I am thinking about, lightned axles and drive shafts, transmission shaft and mid shaft etc etc, Can someone please reccomend good brands to use and possibly attatch some links of the best places to buy them.

Thanks Brendan
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:35 PM   #1256
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If you are looking to lighten up the MRX4X you have to consider YBSlow brand for sure. Here is their web site link: http://www.ybslowinc.com/
Good Luck,
Roger
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Old 10-17-2009, 10:49 PM   #1257
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Titanium upper screw set from mugen.

Titanium mid shaft from Mugen.

Make your own titanium drive pins for all four axles and the rear pulley out of titanium hinge pins.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:37 AM   #1258
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Hi there, does some one know which set-up Mike Swauger ran at the worlds in Lostallo? I am running on this track from time to time and would like to take a look at his setting sheet...

Many thanks and best regards, Stefan
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:23 AM   #1259
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www.mugenseiki.com . Go to setting sheet.
On/Off switch gimmick. I use a 3" JR servo extension lead, this plugs into the receiver and never gets unplugged. Somewhere on a touring car receiver cover I ca glue a "parsons products" servo wire extension retainer (for JR). There bright yellow. You plug the battery lead into the extension and then the male/female connector snaps into the retainer. It will go no where and the only thing your going to wear out is the extension.
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Old 10-20-2009, 09:28 AM   #1260
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@MugenDrew

I checked on "mugenseiki" already, but Mikes set-up is not there. However, he replied to my post on "mugenracing" and posted his sheet there. Thanks a lot!
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