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Old 10-11-2009, 09:58 AM   #1231
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A full set of Shepherd front and rear uprights is only about $20.00 around here. Maybe they are more where you are but I wouldn't call that expensive.

Now the aluminum eccentric is almost 9 dollars and you will need 8 of them so that is a bit pricey but you should never need to replace them. But then I guess that is a lot to spend on something just to try on a car that will probably be replaced soon.
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:01 PM   #1232
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Wingracer I stripped another front belt this weekend can you check to see where you had yours set and let me know Thanks Rick
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:29 AM   #1233
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Quote:
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Wingracer I stripped another front belt this weekend can you check to see where you had yours set and let me know Thanks Rick
Take a look here:
No more stripping frontbelts.
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:35 AM   #1234
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Thanks roelof I'm going to try that
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:21 AM   #1235
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The old belts, run right in the center. Anything else and they strip quick.

Rubber belts, I think I ran one notch tighter but I don't have the car anymore so I can't go look at it.
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:43 AM   #1236
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My experience with the belts is that they run very long if your pulleys are in good shape and !clean!

I run on one track where 1/5th big scale cars run as well. They have rubber tires and leave a lot of rubber grains (graining) on the track. If you pick this sticky stuff up and get it on the 16t pulley in front, the belt will strip if you dont remove the nasty stuff quickly.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:42 PM   #1237
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Wingracer I stripped another front belt this weekend can you check to see where you had yours set and let me know Thanks Rick
Rcmuchroom on Ebay has Aluminum Pulleys for the car He has 16T,20T,26T. check it out. (for the front is 16T-Item number: 400073804105)
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:21 PM   #1238
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Rcmuchroom on Ebay has Aluminum Pulleys for the car He has 16T,20T,26T. check it out. (for the front is 16T-Item number: 400073804105)
I took the aluminum pulleys off, it seemed to strip them faster. But even with the plastic pulleys I have to replace the front belt about every other week.
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:37 PM   #1239
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I took the aluminum pulleys off, it seemed to strip them faster. But even with the plastic pulleys I have to replace the front belt about every other week.


That's 1/8th scale for you, You might want to try that tensioner Reolof did.
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:47 PM   #1240
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I like a GOOD 16t aluminum pulley but that is the only one I use. I have an old Serpent one that works great.

Yeah, for our track you should probably put a front belt in it every other race and a rear every three races. More if you run a lot of practice or a long main. The things only seem to be good for 1 to 1.5 hours of running.
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Old 10-13-2009, 03:23 PM   #1241
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With my modification you can run several races without any problem, even the plastic pulley stays in shape.
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Old 10-13-2009, 03:37 PM   #1242
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I like a GOOD 16t aluminum pulley but that is the only one I use. I have an old Serpent one that works great.

Yeah, for our track you should probably put a front belt in it every other race and a rear every three races. More if you run a lot of practice or a long main. The things only seem to be good for 1 to 1.5 hours of running.

WOW! That often?
I have two MRX4X cars, and one has the original belts that are at least 18 months old, and the other car is probably 10 months old. I run the cars every weekend in either practice, club races, or ROAR events. I would go nuts channing the belts that often. I also have one Evolva, and one Serpent 966, and they seem to be great on the belts also. That seems very excessive on belt wear.
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:46 PM   #1243
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When I say 1 to 1.5 hours, I don't mean that they will never last longer than that, just that you will never strip or break one if you change them that often. I have seen them go shortly after one hour, but NEVER before then unless something was very wrong. Sure, it very well MIGHT last 5 hours but if it strips at 5.1 hours right in the middle of a main, you just lost I hate that. So for big races, 1.5 hours at most. Club races I will run them until they go. Of course, I also have monster HP, super hard hitting clutches, an aggressive driving style and sometimes run a lot of overdrive so I'm harder on them than others.
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:40 AM   #1244
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What body would you recommend for low to medium grip asphalt with high speed track ? ... and what would you recommend for low to medium grip asphalt with technical track ??

This is what available in my home track : Xceed Zytec #31501 light weight



I could order from internet : Blitz Lola R 09 or Protoform P909 , as alternative body if xceed body is deemed less superior than R 09 or P909.

2ndly, what is the effect of using thin body versus thick body ?

Thank you very much. ... cherio.
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:57 AM   #1245
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What body would you recommend for low to medium grip asphalt with high speed track ? ... and what would you recommend for low to medium grip asphalt with technical track ??

This is what available in my home track : Xceed Zytec #31501 light weight



I could order from internet : Blitz Lola R 09 or Protoform P909 , as alternative body if xceed body is deemed less superior than R 09 or P909.

2ndly, what is the effect of using thin body versus thick body ?

Thank you very much. ... cherio.
I tried the Zytek for one of my Mugens, and did not like the handling. The car felt very twitchy. I do use the Zytek on my Serpent, but for both Mugens I use either the P909, or the old standby the Central. I also tried the R12, and it had a push. The Blitz body for me also felt unstable. I am really sold on the P909 body though for both Mugens/
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