MRX-4X
09-21-2009, 05:38 AM
#1186
Those parts were supplied to the factory drivers because they suspected it would be hot weather. Before the event I talked to RickV and he said he would not use the harder plastics but I do not know if he did....
In the very past (1991 I belive) BMT did the same and because BMT became world champion there was a special Austin kit. Over here in Holland the harder plastics were just to fragile because the colder weather we have.
Do not think you do need those parts to go faster, you won't go any faster.....
In the very past (1991 I belive) BMT did the same and because BMT became world champion there was a special Austin kit. Over here in Holland the harder plastics were just to fragile because the colder weather we have.
Do not think you do need those parts to go faster, you won't go any faster.....
Well, I run in the Southwest series championship here in Texas. It does get hot here for the summer races which is most of them. 95 deg. F to 105 Deg. F is not unusual. Last month at our SWS race here in Houston you could actually see the mugen's sag on their suspension arms by 2mm from early
morning to the very hot afternoon. That is why I was interested in the stiffer plastic.
I teamed up with Mike Quellar in 1990. We ran BMT 891's that year in the SWS races. We were the first to run BMT's in the US in 1990. We were directly supported by BMT. Mike won the SWS championship that year in 4 wheel drive, I won the Two wheeled drive class that year. I ran a pre-production 891 Austin car almost identical to the one Collari won the race with in the 1991 Worlds at Austin (Hence the "Austin" label"). Of course I finished around 91st out of 150 entries at the 91 Worlds. Perhaps Collari was a little better driver than me!!!
The BMT 891 is my favorite all-time car.Dale
09-21-2009, 06:17 AM
#1187
Yes, then it can make a small change if the standard plastics become that weak in the hot sun.
I have driven the BMT Active and the Active 95R, I also do like the BMT car, my favorite is the 95R. It was stable, easy to maintain, very cheap over 1 year racing because the strength of the used materials and even when the setup is far out of balance it is easy and stable to drive and at the same time you can drive it very agrassive.
In my M18 I have created the active rear suspension and it is awesome to drive.
I have driven the BMT Active and the Active 95R, I also do like the BMT car, my favorite is the 95R. It was stable, easy to maintain, very cheap over 1 year racing because the strength of the used materials and even when the setup is far out of balance it is easy and stable to drive and at the same time you can drive it very agrassive.
In my M18 I have created the active rear suspension and it is awesome to drive.
09-21-2009, 11:47 AM
#1188
Can anyone help me with my brake setup everytime I hit the brakes the car wants to drift. I have ABS system on and it helps very lil also I have the spring on the brake link but when I hit the gas the car is also hitting brake should I remove one of the brake pads. Here I put two pic's up the OS engine is what I was running Now I am running the MR .21 Ninja. any help please,
09-21-2009, 02:09 PM
#1189
Remove the spring and the collar from the brake rod it is not needed. Keep in mind that only the rear wheels do the braking. If the brakes lock up the rear axle the car will spin out if it's at speed.
Use the end point adjustment for the brake side to limit the throw of the servo arm to a comfortable level. This will change with changing grip and layouts of different tracks etc. Use the knob to compensate for pad wear.
Use the end point adjustment for the brake side to limit the throw of the servo arm to a comfortable level. This will change with changing grip and layouts of different tracks etc. Use the knob to compensate for pad wear.
09-21-2009, 06:33 PM
#1190
Remove the spring and the collar from the brake rod it is not needed. Keep in mind that only the rear wheels do the braking. If the brakes lock up the rear axle the car will spin out if it's at speed.
Use the end point adjustment for the brake side to limit the throw of the servo arm to a comfortable level. This will change with changing grip and layouts of different tracks etc. Use the knob to compensate for pad wear.
Use the end point adjustment for the brake side to limit the throw of the servo arm to a comfortable level. This will change with changing grip and layouts of different tracks etc. Use the knob to compensate for pad wear.
09-22-2009, 09:52 AM
#1191
Turn the ABS off and use your endpoint adjustment to control brake power.
09-22-2009, 12:33 PM
#1192
Mad about Brakes
09-22-2009, 01:43 PM
#1193
Try to use instead of the fueltube as a spring a real spring like the one on the throttle link.
09-22-2009, 01:53 PM
#1194
09-22-2009, 02:40 PM
#1195
If it is easy to lockup the rear wheels without finding a sweet point with the transmitter EPA setting you have to create a softer spring
09-22-2009, 03:31 PM
#1196
Mugen MRX4X
Some radios call it expotential, some call it push. Go to the brake mode in you radio and see how it is identified.
If you dont have enough exp. or push, the brake will not work at all.
Try and set the exp. at around 10 to 15 points and then adjust the end point for the brake.
09-22-2009, 03:41 PM
#1197
Set the way I like, they will still lock up at slow speeds, like pit lane or really slow corners so a little care is needed in those circumstances but at speed, they wont lock.
09-22-2009, 03:58 PM
#1198
09-23-2009, 07:21 PM
#1200