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Old 06-07-2009, 01:28 AM   #961
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Originally Posted by InstantTilt View Post
anyone have a problem setting rear camber to 3 with a track width of 263 or 262?

I have to grind on the top arms. Is this normal.
First, Relax the hexagonal alumunium screws by turning it anti-clockwise 2 or 3 times, correct your camber and toe in, and carefully re-tightened the hexagonal alumunium screws while you keep testing the upward and downward movement of susp. arms. The susp. arms should able to fall under its own weight.

Also make sure the backside of plastic parts that are facing the pivot ball is FLAT towards hexagonal allumunium screws.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:40 AM   #962
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
First, Relax the hexagonal alumunium screws by turning it anti-clockwise 2 or 3 times, correct your camber and toe in, and carefully re-tightened the hexagonal alumunium screws while you keep testing the upward and downward movement of susp. arms. The susp. arms should able to fall under its own weight.

Also make sure the backside of plastic parts that are facing the pivot ball is FLAT towards hexagonal allumunium screws.
What is the Hexagonal Alum screws. Are you talking about the grub screws in the upright?

The rear end is free. If I take the car to 264 I have all the rear camber I want.

The pivot ball (plastic) is bottoming out in the arm.

Last edited by InstantTilt; 06-07-2009 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:47 AM   #963
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Default Shortening the Rear Wheel Base

I have read several setups that recommend shortening the rear wheelbase 3mm.

In order to do this:
  • Use 4X Rear Lower Arms (Cut Front of arm 3mm).
  • Use R Rear upright
  • Use r Rear H0147 Use R Arms and arms holder thingy. Connects the shock tower to the rear pod.

The rear uprights on the R and the X are close, but the X is thicker where the bearing sits. I am guessing this is to adjust the offset.

The Upper arms are longer by a couple of mm. This extra length is made up for by a shortened tower(can't remember what it is called).

I am not sure why everyone is doing this. Are people saying the car will not rotate. I have not found that to be the case. Are they trying to get more rear traction on exit? Then how can this help?

I would think the shorter wheelbase would make the car more nervous?
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:10 PM   #964
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Originally Posted by InstantTilt View Post
What is the Hexagonal Alum screws. Are you talking about the grub screws in the upright?

The rear end is free. If I take the car to 264 I have all the rear camber I want.

The pivot ball (plastic) is bottoming out in the arm.

Yes, hexagonal = grub alumunium screws on the uprights.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:49 AM   #965
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can someone kindly enough to post Pietsch's Turkish GP(Bumod) setup!
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:27 AM   #966
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Hello guys,

what is your experience with the eccentric hubs on the bulkheads when turned up or down? I know there were already a few posts on this board concerning this but I can't imagine why the mounting position of the one-way/solid axle should change the car's driving behavior.

So what does the car in your opinion, when:

- the one-way is mounted up
- the one-way is mounted low

- the solid axle is mounted up
- the solid axle is mounted low

And WHY does it chance the feeling of the car (if it does change anything at all)?


Greets,
Michl
Belt tension
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:26 AM   #967
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Belt tension ??

Plz don't mix the position of axle and position of eccentric bearing holder.
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Old 06-09-2009, 02:01 PM   #968
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with the 3mm mod, without going into all my setup info, when you grab a handfull of throttle,generally will that make the ass come around easier than a standard kit set-up? Make it more un-stable that way,but give better dive-in,i havent tried the stock arms etc,,this is my last resort, ive gotten it better and better with the help of you guys, a lil more and the Heat's coming..lol
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:36 PM   #969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123-Michl View Post
Hello guys,

what is your experience with the eccentric hubs on the bulkheads when turned up or down? I know there were already a few posts on this board concerning this but I can't imagine why the mounting position of the one-way/solid axle should change the car's driving behavior.

So what does the car in your opinion, when:

- the one-way is mounted up
- the one-way is mounted low

- the solid axle is mounted up
- the solid axle is mounted low

And WHY does it chance the feeling of the car (if it does change anything at all)?


Greets,
Michl
Which ever end is set higher will have more traction. Everywhere. Tooth on the eccentric in the lower position.
Which ever end is set lower will have less traction. Everywhere. Tooth on the eccentric set in the upper position.
This has to do with the relation between the roll center and drive shaft angle. It was a long read. So I stopped reading and went out and TESTED&TUNED. Yeap that's the way it works.
T0154 offers less offset.
H0188 offers the most.
I lost my parts list this weekend in the squall, I think those part #'s are good.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:57 PM   #970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
Which ever end is set higher will have more traction. Everywhere. Tooth on the eccentric in the lower position.
Which ever end is set lower will have less traction. Everywhere. Tooth on the eccentric set in the upper position.
This has to do with the relation between the roll center and drive shaft angle. It was a long read. So I stopped reading and went out and TESTED&TUNED. Yeap that's the way it works.
T0154 offers less offset.
H0188 offers the most.
I lost my parts list this weekend in the squall, I think those part #'s are good.


thanks drew, did you ever test them both high? that sounds even better!!
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:44 PM   #971
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The closest I ever came to that was on the r with x bulk heads front and rear. It was to assie with h0188's tab down front tab up rear. So I swapped out the rear eccentrics for the t0154 tab up and that did the trick. The effect this has on the car is impressive. Requires a little bit of work to play with though. I like a car that rotates or thats on it's front wheels. Loose is fast but sometimes it can bite you in the A$$
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Last edited by MugenDrew; 06-14-2009 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:01 PM   #972
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What is the technical explenation why the few mm in position of the shaft can determ a lot of difference in grip?
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Old 06-14-2009, 02:51 PM   #973
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I don't have one. The info I read was in a drive line book at the local college library. When I read the part where the placement of the center line of the diff in relation to the center line of the axles both up and down as well as for and aft causes effects in three dimensions I stopped.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:04 PM   #974
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Default zytek body

with a mrx4x and the zytek body, raised 7mm in rear, how far are are you guys mounting the body, in front of bumper<bumper edge-body> mm wise? 10mm 12mm etc..thanks
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:15 AM   #975
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@TommyBlazin

would you please tell me how you raised the rear of the body? Is the car still race legal now or is the rear too high?

@all

Are there more opinions on the "higher rear mod"? What do the pros think? I have newer seen any remarks on Mikes set-up sheets...


Thanks, Stefan
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