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Old 05-06-2009, 06:49 PM   #856
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To all MRX-4X owners I have tried all kinds of stuff to glue the brake pads.(contack, apoxy, glue and the list goes on)Some work better then others but all fail sooner or later. What is the most common glue to use.

I also had the same problem, when they did stick I had break fade through a final. Some people may disagree but I changed to the K factory break which has a twin disc and a great pad arrangement. Never had a problem since.

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...6901&pageNum=1
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:28 PM   #857
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I use shoe-goo and have never had a failure, but I don't use a ton of breaks.
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To all MRX-4X owners I have tried all kinds of stuff to glue the brake pads.(contack, apoxy, glue and the list goes on)Some work better then others but all fail sooner or later. What is the most common glue to use.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:50 PM   #858
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wow that ride height is low, I run 7mm in rear and 6 up front..might be good for a qualifier tho..i have to try, how does it affect the car going that low?
Set up tyres. Roll out.
If you start out with a 76mm rear tyre and a 16/49 1st your roll out will be 32.5mm.
a 70mm rear tire provides ABOUT the same with a 17/49. Note the change in pinion.
Looking at the kit set up sheet;
Rear starting diameter is 76mm and ride height is 7.5mm
If we ended with a 70mm tire, ride height would be 4.5mm. Radius effects ride height in the main NOT diameter.
So I'm .5 mm high.
Set it and forget it.
If you chase ride height between every run your never driving the same "droop" value.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:47 PM   #859
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yea i feel safe at the ride height im at, i know about the drop value not being the same as you change spring height, actually do you know the TRUE droop value that should be maintained mugendrewoftheyear?
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Old 05-07-2009, 03:06 AM   #860
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I have noticed a few of the top drivers are using the standard rear wire sway bar and not the adjustable blade type, is there any reason for this?
the wire sway-bar can be made stiffer then the adjustable sway-bar set a 90deg by moving pivot balls down on the sway-bar.
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Old 05-07-2009, 03:49 AM   #861
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the wire sway-bar can be made stiffer then the adjustable sway-bar set a 90deg by moving pivot balls down on the sway-bar.
Thanks Boz
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:35 AM   #862
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LOL that was pointed at Harrison. That all depends on what your rebound stop is set at. I have never heard anyone mention a specific set of numbers.
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Old 05-07-2009, 07:46 AM   #863
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Hi there,

has anybody tested the new 3-shoe clutch? Got so many parts for the 4-shoe type in my box and like the performance of this "old" system.
Just wondering if there is much to be gained with the newer version?

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Regards

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Old 05-07-2009, 07:57 AM   #864
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Hi there,

has anybody tested the new 3-shoe clutch? Got so many parts for the 4-shoe type in my box and like the performance of this "old" system.
Just wondering if there is much to be gained with the newer version?

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Regards

Stefan
I switched over mid-season last year and it seemed to be more consistent, lasted longer and smoother off the corners. The 4-shoe still works great.
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:00 AM   #865
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Fulcrum:

I am a big fan of the 3 shoe clutch. It is progressive and simply feels better. It is consistent and gave me marked increase in fuel economy. Clutch shoes life also improves. Now, I can't, rather don't, set it up with the same aggressive engagement that you can achieve with the 4 shoe, to get the results above, but it is, IMO, well worth the compromise.

Try it.

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Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
Hi there,

has anybody tested the new 3-shoe clutch? Got so many parts for the 4-shoe type in my box and like the performance of this "old" system.
Just wondering if there is much to be gained with the newer version?

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Regards

Stefan
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:10 AM   #866
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I too love the 3 shoe clutch. I have been able to get very aggressive set-ups on it and they work great. Just takes a little something different that I'm not telling.
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:33 AM   #867
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I too love the 3 shoe clutch. I have been able to get very aggressive set-ups on it and they work great. Just takes a little something different that I'm not telling.
that aint right
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:30 PM   #868
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Originally Posted by ChartRacing View Post
To all MRX-4X owners I have tried all kinds of stuff to glue the brake pads.(contack, apoxy, glue and the list goes on)Some work better then others but all fail sooner or later. What is the most common glue to use.
Chartracing, i use 3M contact cement, but first i scuff the brakes and brake plates with sand paper, then wipe clean with acetone or alcohol, make sure not to get ur fingers on either of these items where the glue will be, otherwise oil from ur fingers will leave residue, then i put 1st coat of glue, when dry i follow with another then when its dry i join them and clamp in a vise over night, hope this helps.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:00 PM   #869
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Something to do with...shims? Perhaps an inner bearing race?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I too love the 3 shoe clutch. I have been able to get very aggressive set-ups on it and they work great. Just takes a little something different that I'm not telling.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:22 PM   #870
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I too love the 3 shoe clutch. I have been able to get very aggressive set-ups on it and they work great. Just takes a little something different that I'm not telling.
The Orion square spring does add a little bit something different
For the inner bearing I use the one with a flang as the side belt tensioner does.
Oh yes, our own red shoe, aluminium clutchbell and hard coated T7075 lightweight gears.


(one is titanium )

Old 4 pin type:
http://members.ziggo.nl/tooms/ftp/jhp/DSCF2657.JPG
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