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Old 04-28-2009, 07:40 AM   #841
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I had to shave or actually bevel the webbing in the arm where it hits the rear axle/bulkhead. I also removed material on the right rear arm right behind where the gears are as it was a little too close for comfort.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:58 AM   #842
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See post #963 on the MRX4R thread for pics. Link below.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/3146006-post963.html

Here's the mod again.
1. Remove 3mm of material from the front of rear upper & lower arms.
2. Remove a little material from the lower rear arms by the "up screw" holes to preventing binding against bulkhead
3. Remove a little material from the right arm so the spur gear does not rub.
4. Install 3mm spacers behind (to the rear) all four arms (upper & lower). Check for binding issues (possibly not enough material was removed, or they were cut uneven, etc.)
5. Install 3mm spacers on upper body mount as pictured. Again, check for binding.

This mod works best with the 4.5 blocks & 5.0 (5.5 needs too much material removed, weakens arm)
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:20 AM   #843
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Again have a 4X with spares for sale in for sale forum with a couple of pics
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Old 04-30-2009, 04:16 PM   #844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I agree with Ron. If it's a bit loose with a Central, something like a 909 or r12 should plant it. Or, try raising the Gurney flap some more.

If you don't want to switch bodies just yet, lay those rear shocks down and/or soften the rear bar.
I do have a 909, and ran the r12 today, still assing out, definatlly better but problem exists, i am going to try the "R" uprights, and upper arm deal,that should solve it, but got around faster today, just when that rear broke loose the third time, broke that custom cut 3mm rear arms..arrg...as im running the 3mm mod..also poped on gray rear springs, that seemed to help, with the r12 and central,they look EXACTLLY the same, except the r12 has a closed cockpit, im afraid to run the 909 as ive heard in several places, it pushes.. this is life

thanks for help,
\tommy
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Old 04-30-2009, 04:25 PM   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron C. View Post
Blazin,

Let me start with a quick fix... If you have access to a P909 body, put that on instead. The Central is a good body and gives good steering but may have the tendency of letting the rear end go away on you, which could sometimes be a good thing (but in this case is what you are trying to eliminate).

Having said that, you may also try the following to help as your next basic quick fixes:

- Bring camber to 3.5
- Bring rear shock to position #2 and or to #1 if needed
- Bring rear sway bar to 1.5 to 0.00 mm if needed

Not sure what track conditions were, but hope this helps for now.

The rear upper hinge pin position dictates for more or less camber gain. If you have it placed more away from the center of the chassis, I would leave it there.

Lastly, on the "X" rear hubs, there are shims which helps position the bearings. That is what the "Rear Bearing" is referring to in the set up sheet. I believe in Mike's Winternats set up, it shows set at 1.0 mm. (The front dont have these)

Hope this helps.
so the 1mm refers to the inside raer bearing holder, both the .5mm shims in front of that bearing"pushing"the drive axel in more, and the pivot balls out further, or do they go in the outside bearing holder..thanks...sorry im sure you guys been thru this like dirty underware but its a big help..cars new to me...also ran k car totally different car...
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:43 AM   #846
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Can you tell me how this mod effects handling? Seems like it puts more weight over the rear tires.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman View Post
See post #963 on the MRX4R thread for pics. Link below.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/3146006-post963.html

Here's the mod again.
1. Remove 3mm of material from the front of rear upper & lower arms.
2. Remove a little material from the lower rear arms by the "up screw" holes to preventing binding against bulkhead
3. Remove a little material from the right arm so the spur gear does not rub.
4. Install 3mm spacers behind (to the rear) all four arms (upper & lower). Check for binding issues (possibly not enough material was removed, or they were cut uneven, etc.)
5. Install 3mm spacers on upper body mount as pictured. Again, check for binding.

This mod works best with the 4.5 blocks & 5.0 (5.5 needs too much material removed, weakens arm)
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:13 AM   #847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
so the 1mm refers to the inside raer bearing holder, both the .5mm shims in front of that bearing"pushing"the drive axel in more, ...
Blazin,

Yes, this statement is correct... (both the .5mm shims in front of that bearing"pushing"the drive axel in more).
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:24 AM   #848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
I do have a 909, and ran the r12 today, still assing out, definatlly better but problem exists, i am going to try the "R" uprights, and upper arm deal,that should solve it, but got around faster today, just when that rear broke loose the third time, broke that custom cut 3mm rear arms..arrg...as im running the 3mm mod..also poped on gray rear springs, that seemed to help, with the r12 and central,they look EXACTLLY the same, except the r12 has a closed cockpit, im afraid to run the 909 as ive heard in several places, it pushes.. this is life

thanks for help,
\tommy
Going to the "R" hubs would be the next thing I would do also.

Another would be.... Since your taking the rear end out for repair, I would also play with inverting the rear eccentrics, raising the rear solid axle all together. If, in case, this cures your rear end "beaking out" but also gave you some "push" during corner entry/exit, try going opposite on the sway bay and go stiffer 1.0mm at a time and dial in from there.

Hope this helps...
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:34 PM   #849
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Front
Track width 253mm
Ride height 4mm@63mm diameter
Camber angle -1.5
Upper arm spacer 2mm
Toe angle 1 deg out per wheel
Rebound stop 1mm
Bump stop HELL NO
Lower arm spacer 0mm
Upper arm position 0mm
Anti roll bar flat
Front upright 1mm under the tie rod ball and 1mm between the wheel drive pin and the out side of the outer bearing.
Eccentric Hub H0188, tooth down in the middle bulk head groove.
Ackerman A
Upper arm position 0mm
Front shocks
Pistons stk.
Oil #600
Springs white
Position middle hole.
Rear
T.W. 263mm
R.H. 5mm@70mm Dia.
Camber -2
Toe -1.5mm
R.S. 9mm
B.S. HELL NO!!!
Lower arm position 5mm
Upright spacer 3.0mm
Upper arm position IN TOWARDS SPOOL!!!!!!!
Eccentric Hub H0188 tooth up
Body mount arm Out side hole using H0466F
BEARING POSITION 1MM!!!!
Anti Roll Bar 3mm wire 3mm forward
Rear shocks
Piston Stk
Oil #600
Springs White
Position 2nd hole from the inside
Engine MAX XL9 TQ a#% kicker
Ninja #7
2018 kit
20% Byrons
33 front
35 rear TWISTER'S
PROTOFORM something french 909 O HELL YEAH
15mm from the bumper to the rear of the front lip of the body. See notes
Guerny strip 5mm
4 shoe
yellow disc
4mm holes in each fly wieght
WORN MSR spring
Clearance .4
spring nut 1mm
Gears 16/49...19/46
Gotta roll kids, Sin yur ritas and Modelo Negro's to chase. Happy Sinco Day Taco!!! Set up notes tomorrow...
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Old 05-06-2009, 05:39 AM   #850
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I have noticed a few of the top drivers are using the standard rear wire sway bar and not the adjustable blade type, is there any reason for this?
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:34 AM   #851
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My experience is that it makes a smoother suspension. With the optional swaybar there are to much forces on the rotating points of the swaybar.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:04 PM   #852
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wow that ride height is low, i run 7mm in rear and 6 up front..might be good for a qualifier tho..i have to try, how does it affect the car going that low?
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:29 PM   #853
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with the r uprights, 3mm conversion, for the upper <cut 3mm> arms, are the installed on the innermost position or outtermost position in upper hingepin holders, looking for max grip here, thanx

Whats the difference if rear upper arm is closer twords the spool, or on the outter position
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:53 PM   #854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
wow that ride height is low, i run 7mm in rear and 6 up front..might be good for a qualifier tho..i have to try, how does it affect the car going that low?
The only reason he runs the ride height so low ,,,Is that .. the only track he races at... is very smooth. And not a fast flowing track,,,but a tech. track. Huh Drew?
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:31 PM   #855
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To all MRX-4X owners I have tried all kinds of stuff to glue the brake pads.(contack, apoxy, glue and the list goes on)Some work better then others but all fail sooner or later. What is the most common glue to use.
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