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Old 09-19-2007, 06:15 AM   #61
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Wait for full completed kit. It should be release in 2 weeks, from what i heard the clutch is difference too but you wont get that in conversion kit.
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:21 AM   #62
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Thanks for the info about the upper arms, much appreciated.

I did the x conversion last weekend and was asking myself from a technical point of view "Why are we doing this upgrade?"

- New Chassis only to introduce the new FRP battery holder. Is this creating more torsional rigidity? Btw new CRP optional battery holder is also available since some daysI am not sure why they changed the chassis, there is 5 less screws and you have no brackets to attach to the chassis for the rear of the battery holder. Ony thing I can think is everything is a little lighter.

- New bulkheads only to allow high and low positions for the solid axle and front one way. What are the handling effects?higher front diff= more steering, higher rear diff = more traction but in high traction can make the car lift really bad so I actually think lower the better for our tracks here. Lower rear makes the car more smooth in my opinion.

- Back to the old shock towers and short rear shock bodies Why? everybody claimed that the R was much better than the original MRX-4 with those partsI never had the regular 4 so I don't know the answer to that. According to some people the old front tower gave more steering exiting the turn.

- Shorter rear upper arms. Why? Longer upper arms improved the R versus the original 4I think the longer upper arms gave the R more rear traction but as a result took away steering. With the new short upper arms combined with the longer body supports it still has rear traction but also more corner speed and steering. So you get the best of both worlds. My opinion.

- New rear uprights with adj. offset. Whats the benefit?What you can adjust now is the rear scrub. More scrub = more steering. Having the spacers on the outside

-A lot of unnecessary plastic parts come with the x conversion. Shock parts are not needed despite the rear lower collars. Rear brake bracket is not needed (only the short lever), rear body mount is not needed (only the longer arms)I dont know for sure but I think those parts trees will come in a new kit eventually. Instead of them breaking those parts off you did not need, now you have extras. eventaully you will use them.

Just some observations and thoughts...

Paul
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Old 09-19-2007, 07:07 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by jca2000au View Post
Wait for full completed kit. It should be release in 2 weeks, from what i heard the clutch is difference too but you wont get that in conversion kit.
Since I already have the R, its hard to convince the wife I need a whole new car. Will the new "X" bulkheads fit on the "R" chassis? I see these as one of the best additions and may just try them for now.
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Old 09-19-2007, 07:19 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rankev11 View Post
Since I already have the R, its hard to convince the wife I need a whole new car. Will the new "X" bulkheads fit on the "R" chassis? I see these as one of the best additions and may just try them for now.
The New bulkheads should fit just fine as the placement
of the holes in the X chassis align exactly with the R.
An extra note: I found / used at the NATS, that you can
use the R Eccentric rings too for a miled adjustment in
case the X Eccentric rings are too aggressive. If you put
the 2 different rings next to each other you will see.
R / T0154
X / H0188

Take care!

T
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Old 09-19-2007, 07:25 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
higher front diff= more steering, higher rear diff = more traction but in high traction can make the car lift really bad so I actually think lower the better for our tracks here. Lower rear makes the car more smooth in my opinion.
Is that so ?

The only thing I can imagine is when setting the ridehight of the car the dogbones can get an angle with the shaft which you do not want and you can correct this to one straight line to change the height of the shaft.
If the shafts are in one line the resistance is at minimum but also some wear in the shafts will give less problems.
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Old 09-21-2007, 01:02 AM   #66
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thinking about gettin an 8th scale
cant really decide yet
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:31 AM   #67
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thinking about gettin an 8th scale
cant really decide yet
Why not Vincent, 8th scale is fun!
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:32 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by rankev11 View Post
Thanks Joel, just spoke to Jessie.
Also call speed shop hobbies. He's got one left in stock.

Joel
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:06 AM   #69
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Joel thanks again. Beltran didn't seem to know if they had it or not and they kept telling me to call back in a few hours. I did get one yesterday from the newest upcoming hobby shop and racetrack in the area, I think it was the last kit on the east coast.
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:10 PM   #70
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Will the mrx4R body fit the 4x?

I forgot about the possibility that I may convert to X later and cut/drill 2 central bodies last night becasue I got nothing to do.

also, what is the tire diameter for 1/8? 67/74? I havn't run 1/8 for a while and I forgot.

Thanks.
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:46 PM   #71
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Will the mrx4R body fit the 4x?

what is the tire diameter for 1/8? 67/74?

Thanks.
The body will be fine, same mounting positions.

The tire size is fine as well.
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:22 PM   #72
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Why not Vincent, 8th scale is fun!
i know but i dnt know if i can handle it im a sedan guy!!!
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:40 PM   #73
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Default Rear End

Been racing this weekend in the UK with the MRX4-X set up. I noticed like the previous weekends that the rear end will snap on the exit of the corner and then drive away.

I decided to try the 'R' rear shock mount and the longer rear shockers. This made the car better to drive overall and prevented the rear end from snapping away.

In the UK, the tracks have less grip than most in the USA or main land europe but I feel that mugen may have taken a step backwords with the X car apart from giving the option of changing the diff heights.

Regards

Andy North
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:08 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Andrew North View Post
Been racing this weekend in the UK with the MRX4-X set up. I noticed like the previous weekends that the rear end will snap on the exit of the corner and then drive away.

I decided to try the 'R' rear shock mount and the longer rear shockers. This made the car better to drive overall and prevented the rear end from snapping away.

In the UK, the tracks have less grip than most in the USA or main land europe but I feel that mugen may have taken a step backwords with the X car apart from giving the option of changing the diff heights.

Regards

Andy North



You should have tried more set ups. I have heard good things about the conversion.
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:30 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by rick ross View Post
i know but i dnt know if i can handle it im a sedan guy!!!
......i just started in 1/8th this year (but have only raced once due to work) and caught on real fast...if you can drive a .12 sedan, you will catch on and be HOOKED...........
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