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Old 01-09-2009, 04:03 PM   #616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
maybe a better way to understand what is wrong:
what is happening when you try to get more than 2.5degrees camber?

if the upper arm is bottoming out, the problem might be the turnbuckle in the upper arm is not threaded 'evenly' or 'equally'(can't think of a better term)
when you try to shorten the upper arm you are running out of thread on one end of the turnbuckle before the other end. in that case you just need to even it up.
Yeah avs, i think thats what wrong, im going to check both of them, its only the left side that i cant achieve the 3MM camber, only 2.5MM.
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:56 PM   #617
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If it is a X be sure that you have the scrub or bearing shim's set evenly in the up-rites. Set your track width with the car flipped upside down using calipers with the inner measuring point off of the oppisite side of the spool or rear pulley. For 263mm track width it should be 137mm to the rim edge.
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:44 PM   #618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loveless View Post
Yeah avs, i think thats what wrong, im going to check both of them, its only the left side that i cant achieve the 3MM camber, only 2.5MM.
check with me ill be up there saturday bring your tools and ill help you
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:24 PM   #619
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Do you got to shorten the upper arms too when soing the short wheel base mod it looks like it might bind if not done
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:45 AM   #620
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It depends on how much you cut the lower suspension arms.

If you cut only 1mm, definetely no need up cut the upper arms. ( I cut mine 1mm ).

If 2mm, you have to test.

If you plan to cut more than 2mm, please becareful, the plastic leftover at the front section become narrow and narrower...... not good for impact durability.

You will also need 1mm or 2mm shims to fill in the gap at the lower hinge pins.

Tamiya 53647 Wheel Spacer Red.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53647

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Old 01-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #621
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I thought 3mm was the norm
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:02 AM   #622
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Quote:
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I thought 3mm was the norm

I suppose the more MM you put the more aggressive the car will be, 1MM being the least and 3MM being the most. jmo.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:11 AM   #623
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well we will see what happens
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:03 PM   #624
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I just look at my car again ( mrx4r )

The base where droop screws normally seated will be out of place if you plan to cut more than 2mm at the lower rear susp. arms.

Perhaps 1.5mm cut at rear lower arms , and 1.5mm cut at front lower arms . ??

I'm sure u don't have to cut the rear upper arms this way.
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:41 PM   #625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
I just look at my car again ( mrx4r )

The base where droop screws normally seated will be out of place if you plan to cut more than 2mm at the lower rear susp. arms.

Perhaps 1.5mm cut at rear lower arms , and 1.5mm cut at front lower arms . ??

I'm sure u don't have to cut the rear upper arms this way.
the shortened rear mod has been described here, and indeed it is 3mm removed from the front of the upper and lower arms. (this is a convenient thing because you can just use the 3mm spacers like in the front, so if you want to you can relocate the spacer if you want to run the 'long rear')

you will need add an additional relief to clear the spur gear. just make it as minimal as possible to retain structural integrity in the part.
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:36 PM   #626
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Originally Posted by Loveless View Post
Yeah avs, i think thats what wrong, im going to check both of them, its only the left side that i cant achieve the 3MM camber, only 2.5MM.
Loveless,

Checking to see you've found where the camber issue is? I believe you race at Crystal Park?? Let me know so I can help solve it and get it ready for the Kamikaze Race.

We were at CP yesterday. Swauger was testing the MRX4-X on the new layout.. Changed a few things from the previous set-up and by the end of the day, we have the car set where it's good for the new track.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:21 PM   #627
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Anyone asked Swauger if a new kit is due to replace the X because my chassis is getting tired.
Was thinking of getting a new one but dont want to buy something that is going to be superceded soon.
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:52 AM   #628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron C. View Post
We were at CP yesterday. Swauger was testing the MRX4-X on the new layout.. Changed a few things from the previous set-up and by the end of the day, we have the car set where it's good for the new track.

what things were you changing? or better yet what kind of setup did you end up with?
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:38 AM   #629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
what things were you changing? or better yet what kind of setup did you end up with?
avs,

I can work on a set up sheet that is more thorough which can be posted or emailed over. But here is the basic info:

FRONT:
Track width : 252 mm
Ride Height : 6 mm
Camber : -1.5
Toe : out 0.5 (each)
Shock position : B
Spring : Grey
Shock Oil : 600 (stock)
Steering Ackerman : A
Droop : 1.5 mm up travel
Wheel Base : Short

REAR:
Track width : 262 mm
Ride Height : 7 mm
Camber : - 3.5
Toe : in 1.5 (each)
Shock position : C
Spring : Grey
Shock Oil : 700
Rear Block : 5.0
Droop : 2.0 mm up travel
Floating Body Mount : Long: Part# H0466F (Use outer hole)

GEARING:

16/50 1st
20/46 2nd
Side Pulley : 26T
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:57 AM   #630
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Hey Ron can you send me your set-up please and what type body being used
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