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Old 09-03-2007, 01:15 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
The parts needed to get a X from a plain MRX4 are:

- H0135: Front upper arm & mounts.
- H0139-B: Front uprights.
- H0181: 3mm shims (0.5 and 1mm thick).
- T0514: Eccentric (the old ones). The new (H0188) comes with the conversion.

BTW: Erock, the part numbers for the ballcups are:

H0855: Long ballcups.
H0858: Short ballcups (that one are the ones that go on the front shocks)
hey you forgotthe front and rear bulk heads and the front ones are the one in the set up that are needed
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:47 PM   #47
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hey you forgotthe front and rear bulk heads and the front ones are the one in the set up that are needed
Nope, for getting an 'X' from the original 4 you do not need the bulkheads, they come brand new on the conversion.
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Old 09-03-2007, 03:24 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
I am not 100% sure but Mike told me to run the front one way high and the rear low on the new kit. I think if the check box is checked high it means the diff is actually low. Look at the std setup and you will notice the front is checked low, so if Mike wants us to run the front one way high that would mean the adjusting knobs are on the bottom. Like I said I am not 100% sure that is just what I think.

Paul

That's more of what I was thinking it was.

Here is a question for you Paul. Nobody I ask seems to know for sure:

If you go from the A ackerman block to the B, what does the do for you?
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:45 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Erock View Post
That's more of what I was thinking it was.

Here is a question for you Paul. Nobody I ask seems to know for sure:

If you go from the A ackerman block to the B, what does the do for you?
I'm not Paul or anybody like that. But I feel it gives more turn in. More steering when u enter a turn.
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:04 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erock View Post
That's more of what I was thinking it was.

Here is a question for you Paul. Nobody I ask seems to know for sure:

If you go from the A ackerman block to the B, what does the do for you?
When going to more ackerman B-D it will give more turn in because it scrubs the wheels more as you turn. Bascially slows the car down more. When the traction is high or the turns are really wide A seems to work good. If the turns are tight or less traction, towards D would be better in theory. I never tired B or C just A and D. If I had to pick one that I would use everywhere it would be A but that does not mean B-D wouldn't be better.

Paul
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:11 PM   #51
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I have the X conversion on the car but havent gotten to run it yet. The problem I had with the R was understeer mid corner off-power, I was using the rear of the car to turn it. I hate having to do that. The car would not go around a 180 for nothing.
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Old 09-03-2007, 11:44 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Pooh2 View Post
I'm not Paul or anybody like that. But I feel it gives more turn in. More steering when u enter a turn.
Ever supposed that from A to D gave you less steering... Gee!!! thanks that I Didn't changed it. Tried the X past Sunday and I was looking for a little less sensitive steering, had more than I wanted with the Central RC body.
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Old 09-04-2007, 04:15 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
Ever supposed that from A to D gave you less steering... Gee!!! thanks that I Didn't changed it. Tried the X past Sunday and I was looking for a little less sensitive steering, had more than I wanted with the Central RC body.

Try raising the top front arm 1mm. That usually smooths the car out and you can try 1 more 1mm shim for the bumpsteer(so you have 2mm).

Paul
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Old 09-04-2007, 07:42 AM   #54
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Hi there!


The new H0136-b rear upper arm comming with the X conversion, is this the same one that has been used on the original MRX-4 and has the part number H0136?

With the R came the adjustable length upper arm as a running change and was also called H0136 - Confusing

Anybody?

Thx
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:13 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
Ever supposed that from A to D gave you less steering... Gee!!! thanks that I Didn't changed it. Tried the X past Sunday and I was looking for a little less sensitive steering, had more than I wanted with the Central RC body.
go up one shore of tires all the way around it will settle the car down. out in l
LA i use 40 with the central body and 38 with the freezbee body
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:52 AM   #56
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Does anybody know where I can get my hands on the conversion kit? I have called two of my normal hobby shops and they both said they sold out of them the first day it came in. And said Mugen was not making any more since they were coming out with the new car. So, am I s.o.l. or what??? Looks like the price of all the parts seperately is about $400 as I saw the kit for $179.
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:37 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
Hi there!


The new H0136-b rear upper arm comming with the X conversion, is this the same one that has been used on the original MRX-4 and has the part number H0136?

With the R came the adjustable length upper arm as a running change and was also called H0136 - Confusing

Anybody?

Thx
The orginal 4 was part number HO136, the R is HO147 and I think the X is HO136-B. The X is the shortest, then 4 a little longer and R is the longest.

Paul
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Last edited by chicky03; 09-21-2007 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:54 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rankev11 View Post
Does anybody know where I can get my hands on the conversion kit? I have called two of my normal hobby shops and they both said they sold out of them the first day it came in. And said Mugen was not making any more since they were coming out with the new car. So, am I s.o.l. or what??? Looks like the price of all the parts seperately is about $400 as I saw the kit for $179.
Beltran Hobbies have them in stock. Call them with this number (323) 589-5100.
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Old 09-18-2007, 12:03 PM   #59
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Thanks Joel, just spoke to Jessie.
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:52 AM   #60
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@chicky03

Thanks for the info about the upper arms, much appreciated.

I did the x conversion last weekend and was asking myself from a technical point of view "Why are we doing this upgrade?"

- New Chassis only to introduce the new FRP battery holder. Is this creating more torsional rigidity? Btw new CRP optional battery holder is also available since some days

- New bulkheads only to allow high and low positions for the solid axle and front one way. What are the handling effects?

- Back to the old shock towers and short rear shock bodies Why? everybody claimed that the R was much better than the original MRX-4 with those parts

- Shorter rear upper arms. Why? Longer upper arms improved the R versus the original 4

- New rear uprights with adj. offset. Whats the benefit?

-A lot of unnecessary plastic parts come with the x conversion. Shock parts are not needed despite the rear lower collars. Rear brake bracket is not needed (only the short lever), rear body mount is not needed (only the longer arms)

Just some observations and thoughts...
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