Winner's Circle

iTrader: (2)

I have them in stock!

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

You should not run out of room on the shock with those size tires. So far running 68mm front tires there is not problem with 7mm ride height. I usually set my car up with 68/75 and then if I want to run smaller tires I just leave the shock collars in the same place I just have a lower ride height. If the track is really bumpy I will give myself a little more ride height when using small tires by turning the shock collars down and readjusting the droop.

One thing I did notice compare to the R is I used to screw the shock bottoms all the way on but with the X to get -1 droop I had to make the shocks longer by turning out the bottom of the shock eyelets.

Don't run the rear springs on the front because the rear spring rate is much softer than the front springs even though the wire and color are the same.

Paul

Corse-R

Yep... this is an old and revisited 'problem'... some solved them using different shock cups (there are some that puts the spring 3mm higher). On the 'X' box saw a pair of them. Give them a try if it scares you screw down the shock collar.

Regarding the use of rear springs on the front, never did it... and never saw it. Check if with the different lower shock collars gives you a fit, if not, you could use the longer ballcups like the ones that came on the rear shocks of the 'R' (sorry, I don't have the part number).

BTW: Today at the track, spotted some 'different' front lower arms, the pin was located on inner position rather than mine a-arms. Mine arms are the stock ones that came on the latest batches of R previous to the 'version 2' with the hard chassis and updated front uprights.

The a-arms with the shock pin 'inner' are newest ones or oldest ones?

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

The A arms that have the shock mounted on the in on the front arm are the old ones unless they are going back to that. I would think that if they wanted you to use the arms with the inner hole it would have came with the kit but that is just an opinion. Also my opinion is the further out you can go on the arm the "better" it is. Some times if it is a lot you have to change spring rates to compensate.


Paul

dfilo456

iTrader: (2)

How Much are They And How Can I Get ahold of you

Brian Berry

Paul,

Aren't you supposed to be getting ready for a wedding tomorrow? What a dedicated racer to be giving setup help the day before his own wedding!

BTW.... See you tomorrow (opps I mean today!)

lowlux

this might sound silly but can i apply the conversion kit to my older mrx4, not sure whats different between it and the R.
thanx

twoo

Except for the top front arm, you will have exactly the same car as upgrading from a R.

Corse-R

The parts needed to get a X from a plain MRX4 are:

- H0135: Front upper arm & mounts.
- H0139-B: Front uprights.
- H0181: 3mm shims (0.5 and 1mm thick).
- T0514: Eccentric (the old ones). The new (H0188) comes with the conversion.

BTW: Erock, the part numbers for the ballcups are:

H0855: Long ballcups.
H0858: Short ballcups (that one are the ones that go on the front shocks)

Erock

Thanks Paul and Corse-r that helps alot!

On the set up sheet for the X, it has a picture of the outdrive opening and two boxes one high and one low. I know this is for the diff (running it high or low.

Question is: if the upper box it highlighted is the point on the eccentric pointing up or is it saying the diff is in the high postition?

Pooh2

High.

Corse-R

I only can say... Holy $hit!!!

Only did 4 quick tanks (first with their stock setup and the later three doing small changes every time). That boy is really quick!!!

First tank felt me a tad nervous with the short wheelbase and switched to long wheelbase, played a little eyeballing the rear toe-in and front toe-out (sorry, carried only the car, the starter box, some fuel and very little more like some tools).

Cannot give you more setup details (boss told me that was that greasy and grimefull thing so the car remains on the garage ). But this is mainly my actual setup (needs more work).

- Stock setup with long wheelbase.
- Front toe-in reduced (3 degrees seemed me a lot during assembly but... wanted to try).
- Rear toe-in reduced (from the 2 degree toe-in) screwed around 1/3 of turn each front pillowball.
- Central RC body with gurney lip at level with the body (uhm.. never knew how to call it... think on 0 elevation of the lip from the body).
- 35 shore tyres at 68/75mm.

Things that I want to play next time:

- Change to 'B' ackermann. Steering is really quick, maybe is the body combo too but... need to calm a little that steering, you sneeze over the steering wheel on the transmitter and the damn steers.
- Smaller wheels. 68/75 is really big. On the 'R' went down to 64/71 and loved it.

Anyone more tried it? Post their feedback and which type of track you drove it.

Erock

Thank you.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

I am not 100% sure but Mike told me to run the front one way high and the rear low on the new kit. I think if the check box is checked high it means the diff is actually low. Look at the std setup and you will notice the front is checked low, so if Mike wants us to run the front one way high that would mean the adjusting knobs are on the bottom. Like I said I am not 100% sure that is just what I think.

Paul

Pooh2

Yep, that's how I got mines.