Ron C.

iTrader: (2)

You can get them here:

www.KamikazeRCRacing.com

They're in Socal and can ship to the bay area pretty quick.

jt415gz

iTrader: (29)

It is not listed on their site.

Do you know the exact name of the part?

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Give them a call. Im sure he has it, if not he can get it for you pretty quick.

1-714-997-TOYS

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Jeff,
Just answered your regular e-mail, Regarding your Inquiry = yes I got it in stock!


By the way Thanks to Ron C. and Nitrodude.

jt415gz

iTrader: (29)

I just placed a large order thanks for your help people.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Just got home from another long test session with the new car at 301 and want to bounce a few set up ideas off of you guys. I started with the car set-up straight by the set-up sheet except for all four shocks in the lowest hole. After some tweaking I got the car very stable and easy to drive with tons of on-power steering but it just doesn't turn in and through the center as well as I would like. Here are the various changes I tried so far.

Added 1mm spacers under the front upper arm mount, later went to 1.5mm. Helped but not enough.

Tried narrowing front track to 250mm. Did not help steering but lost the nice feel I had for the car. Went back to 253.

Went to the 5.5 rear lower arm mounts. This really helped. I know alot of people like the 4.5 but I always liked the 5.5 on the old car and this change really gave me the fell I was looking for. Still needed more though.

Moved the body forward. (running both the R11 and Central)

Went to red rear springs. This one helped alot but again, still not enough.

Stiffened rear bar a bunch.

Switched to the short rear body mounts. Helped a bit through the fast stuff.

Last run I tried the C ackerman block. Only felt slightly different but I kind of liked it.

All of this and I still need more off power steering in and through the middle. If I can get the front digging harder I can knock half a second off my times. What should I try on the next test? I am using the R eccentrics. Will using the new eccentric up front to raise the front axle even more give more steering? I have also heard increasing rear scrub (I assume moving the spacers to the outside of the hub) will help. Think I should try that? I need to come up with a good plan for my next test session so all advice is welcome.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Oh yeah, I also went to the short wheelbase.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

I'll be at 301 this afternoon maybe we can figure something out. I ran my car really close to the Swauger setup last time I was there and it was good. Mike is there also so he should have some good suggestions. The X eccentrics will help a lot along with more scrub in the front and back.

Paul

jt415gz

iTrader: (29)

how can i obtain it...who sells it?

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

I think he is referring the the short REAR setup. If so, it is a hand modification. See post #963 on the MRX4R thread. Link below.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...114347&page=33

chb402

I am getting my MRX-4X within a few hours this morning

but w/o the engine...

can anybody tell me what engines with what exhaust set you guys have?

and where I can get them? like... websites?...

it is so hard to decide what engine to get..

any help will be appreciated

thanks in advance!

Woodlands Racer

Really depends on the type of racing that you are going to do and your level of experience in handling a fast 1/8th scale car.

You can start with something as simple as the O.S. VR-Z version II Turbo for under $300 or go with the full race Nova Rossi 359 (tuned) near $600. You will also be able to find a number of motors in between these two as well. I would encourage you to visit with the other 1/8th drivers that you will be racing in your local area to see what they are running. That way you will likely find more knowledgable help in tuning your motor after break in. The pipe will differ depending on what you are wanting to attain from your motor, fuel economy, bottom end (tight track), top end (large wide open track). Again talk to your local guys and the local hobby shop that sponsors your races (if applicable).

Good luck,
Roger

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Actually I was talking about the front arm shim. I'm not running the classic unfortunately. I'm gearing up for the Nats. I may show up for the mains Sunday.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

The ultimate in power, reliability and tuneability are Nova based motors. I especially like RB's C6. Next best if you want to save a few bucks would be Picco based motors. The OS is a strong running and easy to tune motor but be careful not to twist it too hard and get an extra rod with it. Break it in and run one race with it, then change the rod.

airtraficontr

whats wrong whith the rod is it not bushed?