tl2111

iTrader: (21)

Gav

I have never use any threadlock on engine srcew, just make sure you do extra 1/8th of a turn when the engine is hot. had never fail on me yet!!!

dtm

Tamiya threadlock.....not the blue stuff.....it is only good for plastic. Heat it up and it goes soft!! I normally stick with AE for metal to metal....but to be honest I don't use for the engine...

AMGRacer

Interesting note for those guys who like the stiffer rear sway bars.

Itoh ran a new trial rear swaybar (?iŽŽ?ì?j) which is 2.8mm thick on the rear of his FW05R. Will be interesting to see if it makes it into production. This bar is 16% stiffer than the gold which should make it pretty stiff. The shortening trick performed by some others on this forum stiffens the bar by around 20%.

Taylor-Racing

Noted, Tommy - good idea.


Yes the blue stuff. I was trying it out on the old V-One R plastics and thought it pretty good. It's supposed to be OK for metal/metal also, I believe but I'd always used Locktite 243 for the likes of engine screws.
You don't use any thread lock, either.

I guess I should get some proper countersunk washers as we used on the old car.

Taylor-Racing

I'm not familiar with the diameter of the FW05R bar, but doesn't the stiffness increase by a factor of four, proportional to the diameter or something . . . it's a long time since I did physics.

Similarly, (and I think I can be more accurate) moving the location of the stops on the V-One R/RR/Evo up to half way should double the stiffness, shouldn't it.

Where the hell is my physics book.

AMGRacer

The stiffness of a round bar increases in proportion to its cross section assuming the hardness of the materials is equal. Thus pi * r ^ 2 needs to be compared.

For the stiffness by length the leverage force is again simplistically linear so I assumed going from 60mm to 50mm (I guessed the 50 mm part ) on a 65mm bar would be a linear stiffness increase of 20%. If you go half way (32.5mm) then you are right it is far more.

My figures are only estimates, sheesh man

BTW I do use threadlock on all my engine mounting to chassis screws. On a 20-30 minute final I want to be sure this thing aint gonna move, and I cannot be certain that I will not put it into the wall at least once

OZDC

iTrader: (16)

Absolutely, get enough sh1t luck so I never have a problem accepting any good luck.

What Gav is still avoiding saying is that Team Taylor took out the SERCCC pro touring championship for 2003. It went down to the wire, in the end, in the final, after replacing the stripped gear (i think), they returned to the track just to pick up points. Their last lap of the race moved them up past a retired car by one lap, gaining enough points to win the championship by 1 point.

Last lap of last race to win by 1 point , a nailbiter.

Congrats

DC

P.S I dont loctite engine screws either, found they became too hard to get out and its a real pain to get an engine out when the screw strips. The only time i have issues are when I have a big crash or I forget to tighten them properly.

V-One S Racer

Ooooohhh .... congrats to Gav and Sam !

HEYALIGNMENTGUY

I think your physics book is back at your old high school like mine is, remember we are old and do not need to know such complicated matters as such

Good show, winning championship. did you get a big peanut bowl?

Taylor-Racing

Your right . . . can't remember much physics, though I remember a certain physics teacher. I thought she was just beautiful - probably explains my physics memory.

Thanks HAG and guys,

I think he gets a trophy and his name on a perpetual shield or something - presentation night is later this month.

Racing will soon start to wind down for the year. We have one more club meeting and the VORTEC Championships at the end of November in Castlemaine. OZDC will again undoubtedly show his prowess at Mini-Z Pool.
In January, we'll have the Victorian Titles at Lilydale. This is where OZDC and V-One S Racer hail from. There will be half of Australia there and will undoubtedly serve as reality check compared to the recent club win.

Taylor-Racing

. . . yeah, I was getting a bit anal, wasn't I.

Thank heavens for that . . . I was starting to think I was the only one using it.

Manticore

I copied what dtm has done to his 5xAAA on my EVO.

things you need:-

3racing upper deck support
battery mount for V1R or V1RR
5mm tall spacer x2
2 long screws
and
5xAAA size batteries

Manticore

One more

Hank

Thank you Mr Manticore

ernestf

iTrader: (2)

manti, nice pic !!

I know you are using Mugen clutch + small size fly wheel ... I see the mod on the buttom chassis near the clutch bell ... which engine mount you are using ? can you show me ?

it seems no mod need for the upper deck mod ?