Manticore

well different implications.

Taylor-Racing

Ah, yes, and I think I agree. Some time ago, just for a change, we tried a Protoform Ferrari Modena when they first came out 'cos it just looked cool.
I liked the fact that it was quite low and it did seem to be pretty good at higher speeds. I was not all that sorry to see it go, though.
The cabin is well forward, making a fast refueling stop difficult - and it wasn't IFMAR legal, so.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I suspect it might be very difficult to make conclusive judgements about quite similar bodies.

patelladragger experiments with body changes on the day.
During our race day, we will tweak lots of settings looking for that extra poofteenth of a second. Logic suggests that every time we make a change to suspension settings etc. we should also then re-confirm that the current body is appropriate. All this doesn't even begin to address the many other variables that happen in a day. e.g. the change in traction that usually improves as the day goes on. What if we change to harder tyres as a result of the improved traction? We might now want a body that provides a tad more steering.
To me, all this sounds impractical for mere mortals.

Now if you have a factory drive, no problem. You are serious about your toy car racing and are prepared to spend two solid weeks at the track changing bodies and every other setting imaginable, so that you better know the implications of all the changes and can take advantage of them. Without that, a lot of it is guesswork, I'd reckon.
If patelladragger has all this figured out, then he is a better man than me, but, hey, that might not be too hard, eh.
Apologies for the rant.

Quote:

Tell you what, Masami set a fast record with one of the racer's tamiya car (shaft driven with poorly maintained motor) over all of the local drivers record here (HK) and that doesnt mean tamiya makes good car and bodies?!

Exactly.
My new favourite saying - Most of the differences are at the transmitter end, not the receiver end.

JordanC

iTrader: (8)

Apparently the mould for the Holden was a bit skewif, but the ford is supposed to be pretty good.

patelladragger

Well Taylor-racing, I was in agreement with all of your previous post until your rant about me changing bodies for 2 weeks here. Which is quite un-needed, but oh-well, if it helps make your point - it's all good.

I run on different tracks, and If I see others running non-ROAR bodies I will run non-Roar, if I see them running ROAR I will run ROAR. By the time i get to the track I try to stay away from making suspension changes to dial my car. I usually have spent quite a bit of time on setup , tweak, and weight distribution before going to the track so I'll adjust tires, and yes, maybe bodies when I'm trying to dial in for the day. I usually only run a few laps per run when I'm trying to dial in so as not to encounter too many variables like overdrive changes, ride height, etc.

Here in the U.S. the stratus is by far the popular choice among serious racers and if it weren't the "perceived" best handling body out there you'd see as many opels and bmw's as you see stratus. But I tend to agree, the differences aren't all that major between bodies that have similiar downforce - but we're saying the same thing, different bodies have vastly different downforce traits so obviously the choice of body shell does have a significant impact on RC cars' handling.

popsracer

patelladragger;

I agree. If you start making too many changes at the track then it's so easy to get lost.

The only changes that I ever make at the track are;
1) Tires
2) Front Caster
3) Rear Toe

Anything else is done at home during set-up checking/adjustment.

AMGRacer

I dont think anybody said it did not matter, but many of us are just being honest and saying that we cannot feel a significant difference. I have NEVER had you experience of a particular body making my car go from a good handling car to a pig. And I AM only of those guys whos standard deviation is around 0.5-0.7 so as you point out mayby that makes a difference.

Hey like the others say if a body works and you like it go for it. I was just honestly answering a question as to MY experiences. Rear downforce is the biggest thing I can feel on all the bodies I have tried. I probably have run around 20 different body shells over my time.

AMGRacer

Yep I agree rjl. Other guys at my track feel the same way as Patella does here and I always thought it was my poor driving not allowing me to feel the differences.

But frankly I beat these guys regularly by a large margin usually so I must be doing something right.

Taylor-Racing

Apologies if I offended - this was not the intent.
My train of thought was not aimed at you. You just got me thinking about the ramifications of experimenting with body changes - or changes in general, really. So, yes, I was just making a point, but was not intending to denigrate in the process. Again, my apologies.

Quote:

I run on different tracks, and If I see others running non-ROAR bodies I will run non-Roar, if I see them running ROAR I will run ROAR. By the time i get to the track I try to stay away from making suspension changes to dial my car. I usually have spent quite a bit of time on setup , tweak, and weight distribution before going to the track so I'll adjust tires, and yes, maybe bodies when I'm trying to dial in for the day. I usually only run a few laps per run when I'm trying to dial in so as not to encounter too many variables like overdrive changes, ride height, etc.

Yes, we also run on different tracks, but given that we don't run a Lola body at any of them, we have less extremes to deal with than you, I'd say. Our standard set up actually works pretty well on quite different tracks requiring only minor changes. I also do the set up at home where I can take the time. On race day, I am prepared to experiment more in the earlier heats than just before the final.

Quote:

Here in the U.S. the stratus is by far the popular choice among serious racers and if it weren't the "perceived" best handling body out there you'd see as many opels and bmw's as you see stratus. But I tend to agree, the differences aren't all that major between bodies that have similiar downforce - but we're saying the same thing, different bodies have vastly different downforce traits so obviously the choice of body shell does have a significant impact on RC cars' handling.

Agreed. Yes, I think we are saying the same thing.

Taylor-Racing

Agreed.
But also, in my little world, as long as you are using one of the "good" bodies, there are far more significant things to concentrate on.
If I can get my driver to avoid a single "touch incident" at the end of the straight, he will likely save more time than with a different "good" body.
We typically run against rjl, OZDC and other hot competition. These guys are fast and don't do you any favours, but with consistancy and avoiding incidents, we can often get a decent placing.

calimassive

I just heard that Trinity is now gonna be the exclusive distributor of Novarossi engines in the US. Is this good or bad? They already distribute Rossi engines, which we all know.

racer rich

Hello. I have a question regarding aftermarket universals for the Kyosho V-One RR. A few months ago I was going to purchase a V-One RR, but I decided to see what the new Mugen and Serpent would look like. After seeing their new releases, and not being quite too pleased by their "updates" at all, I have now decided to purchase a V-One RR.

I would like to get aftermarket universals for my soon-to-be V-One RR. I noticed there are 3 manufacturers/types of universals for the V-One RR. Below is the manufacturer of each universal along with a picture of it:

Here is a picture of the Five Stars universals for the V-One RR:

Here is a picture of the "polished" Integy/Eagle universals for the V-One RR:


Here is a picture of the "black" Integy/Eagle universals for the V-One RR:


I would like to have some feedback on these universals. I am looking for universals that are lightweight yet durable. The K-Factory universals on my Reflex are very fragile and bend very easily. I would like to have some more durable units. I believe patelladragger once stated (I am not perfectly sure so don't take this to heart) that the "polished" Integy/Eagle universals are fragile and break easily. Can I have some personal experiences with these universals that are listed and pictured above? Also, I noticed the "black" Integy/Eagle universals sell for $10.00 more than the "polished" Integy/Eagle universals(both are sold at Integy's online shop). I wonder why the difference in price? Which universals on the market for the V-One RR are most durable and provide the best performance?

Thanks in advance!

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

I think the kyosho ones are your best option..... they come in normal and wide for the rear. I have the wide rear ones, and they ave very, very bullet proof.

asd

ok, this is wat i dont understand about all the ppl hyped up about the new mtx-3. here are the major features that make it such a "desirable" car.


?E"Racing(centax)" clutch v1rr

?EShoe Type 2 Speed Gear Box v1rr

?EVentilated Brake Disk v1rr

?EAdjustable (Angle) Front Anti-Roll Bar v1rr

?EAdjustable Front Bump Stop/Rebound Stop v1rr

?EAdjustable Rear Bump Stop/Rebound Stop v1rr

?ELow Gravity Battery Holder v1rr

?ELow Gravity 75 c.c. Fuel Tank, Filter-equipped v1rr

?ETurn Buckle Steering Rod v1rr

?EAdjustable Servo Savor v1rr

now, look at teh features that have the name "v1rr" beside them
obviously, all of the major features of the mtx-3 are all on the vone rr, everything fromt the centax clutch to thh shoe type 2speed. so why is the mtx-3 getting so much more hype when v one rr got very litttle notice(only got noticed by the "true" pro racers, who know a great car when they see one
)?

AMGRacer

Well I think that everybody always wants the latest thing out there. Just human nature.

Also Kyosho availability especially in the US leaves a lot to be desired because of Great Pains. Same can be said for a lot of other brands, between Great Pains and Trinity. Mugen has got their own distributor which allows for more realistic pricing ana better availability.

Taylor-Racing

Just curious, but what put you off the Mugen and Serpent "updates"?
Not that the V-one-RR is a bad choice, mind you.

On the universals, we have only used the Kyosho ones, so probably can't comment. Most people around here say that Kyosho are best, but WE haven't had what you might call a dream run with them.
The part that concerns me most is the axle pin that is quite small and seems to wear relatively quickly. The axle pins on the Five Star ones seems to be a lot meatier though, and I also would be interested in any comments.

We have recently reverted to dog bones. For me, the reliability factor of the doggies heavily outweighs the minor advantages of the CVD's.
And before anyone asks, we don't have trouble with them falling out. I would hazard a guess that any incident that sees a dog bone fall out would have a 50% chance of breaking a CVD, and they're expensive little buggers.