ok guyz, somebody sent this to me and I've used it with good effect so I'm going to post it for you guyz. I couldn't find the link for it so I typed it all back in from my printout so forgive any spelling errors as I'm too lazy to proofread
Axial Clutch Assembly made easy
Mike Queller, speedline
While there are many different types of axial clutches available today there seems to be many different ways that the manuf. recommend assembly. What I have found is that there is a basic setup that seems to work on ALL of these types of clutches leaving just the fine "tweaking" for special circumstances.
HOW THEY WORK
Before we begin let's discuss the action of the clutch. Most clutches have a flywheel that allows some sort of actuator to move at an anble causing an outward force to the rear of a pressure plate which has the single clutch "shoe" keyed to it. This pad or shoe engages with a clutch bell which is secured at the end of the crankshaft pilot so that it will not be pushed off the shaft. To adjust this engagement, there is an inside adjustment nut pressing a very heavy spring against the shoe allowing the user to engage the shoe later (clockwise) or earlier (counterclockwise).
1)Debur all parts. Pay special attention to the edges of the sliding actuators and the inside of the clutch bell where the adjustment access hole has been drilled. If this is rough then the adjustment nut could catch and self adjust. (PD note: on the kawahara clutch I've had this happen because of the diameter of the spring. I lightly dremmeled the inside of the spring to get rid of this.)
2)Place the collet on the shaft making sure it is fully seated against the front bearing of the engine. Hold the crankshaft firmly and use the blade of a screwdriver pressed against the collet edge to insure it is on all the way.
3)Install the flywheel and then the flywheel nut. Tighten the flywheel nut about 1/4 turn after it is snug. The flywheel should be snug.
4)Put a drop of high temp oil (Racer's Choice - Hy-spin #7015) on each actuator and where it will ride on the flywheel. If the clutch uses a return spring on the actuators, use it. The clutch will disengage faster if this spring is in place. (PD note: this oil tip works).
5)Smear a coat of high temp oil on the rear of the pressure plate and slide it on next followed by the shoe with the spring cup already pressed in firmly. Spin on the adjustment nut until 1-2 threads are showing on the end of the flywheel nut.
6)Install the inside bearing into the clutch bell and place it on the shaft holding the entire assembly upright. Spin the bell.
-If the shoe touches the bell go to step 7.
-If the shoe does not then remove the flywheel nut, file the threaded end, reinstall, and check as many tims as it takes until the bell TOUCHES the shoe.
7)Now that bell is touching the shoe install 5mm shims, .010" (.025mm) thick, between the nut and the clutch bell bearing until the bell spins freely. When it just spins freely, add one extra .010" shim. The bell-to-shoe clearance is now a set distance. No guesswork.
8) Before installing the clutch bell check to see if the bell has one or two adjustment access holes. If there is only one, drill another halfway around on the other side from the existing hole to make it easier to adjust later. (PD Note: this really helps). Install the clutch bearings. The end of the crankshaft should be slightly recessed below the outer surface of the outside clutch bearing. If not, dissassemble the clutch and add 7mm shims between the collet and the engine front bearing to achieve this. This can be different for all engine makes.
9)Install the thrust bearing pilot with the thrust bearing and set this clearance as close to zero as possible without binding the clutch bearings. Be sure to use a high temp greast (Racer's choice #7016) on the thrust bearing and re-lube this bearing daily. (PD Note: I use ronnie's grease now and mugen supergrease and lube every run).
It is recommended to use a double-ended threaded pilot (picco #589) if available. To install a double-ended threaded pilot, place two thin nuts on the non-crankshaft end and tighten (jam) them against each other. Now thread the other end into the crankshaft with a little red loctite and tighten by using those jammed nuts. Remove them by holding one while loosening the other. Using a threaded pilot allows easy endplay adjustment. Just tighten the nut snugly and back off 1/4 turn. Replace the nuts every race weekend for insurance. (PD Note - haven't seen a need to try this yet).
Setting the clutch can be tricky. Start the car, warm it up, and place the car on the ground. Holding the car firmly rev the engine and watch the pressure plate move. The engine should rev slightly and then you should feel a jerk in the car. If not move the adjustment nut until this happens. Adjustment is made by inserting a wire (PD NOTE: I use small allen key) through the clutch bell access hole until it engages the slot of the adjustment nut. Rocking the flywheel back and forth should help with this. Once the adjuster has been located, later engagement (more slip) is achieved by tightening the nut clockwise (PD NOTE: or turning the flywheel counter-clockwise). If earlier is desired loosen the nut counter-clockwise (less slip). Make these adjustments in 1/4 turn increments. The rest is ppersonal taste.
If you are in a real testing mood then you may want to increase you shoe-to-bell clearance and make comparisons as well as increasing or decreasing your endplay adjustment. Just a word of caution though. If you go too far you will ruin actuators, bearings, shoes, or all of the above. Be your own judge.