Kyosho VoneR Thread
#4546
Originally posted by RC
Can anyone comment on their experience for the rear diff when using a front one-way?
Can anyone comment on their experience for the rear diff when using a front one-way?
In particular has anyone tried or can describe the properties of:
- Kyosho Active Diff Set
*Supposed to be adjustable with a set screw.
*Supposed to be adjustable with a set screw.
3. Kawahara "Negative" Diff.
*Nice idea but not effective enough, by the time the inside wheel spins enough to engage the shoes, someone just passed you. And although you can further adjust with oil, you're now back to tear down and change fluids.
My experiences with the Negative Diff....Incredible Traction. I recommend it. It's the best $80 I've ever spent. I don't know how you come up with your logic, RC but Um... in a wheelspin situation, you are still putting power down to at least one tire for a second, the clutch shoes on the diff engage only if one of the tires break traction. If you have both going then there is no need for the clutch to engage.
There is one small disadvantage, weight. But a couple of ounces on a 1hp motor is negligible. Accelerate sooner coming into a long straight. The only thing slowing you down at that point is aerodynamics on the body and the top speed of the motor. Does anyone race on a track with a straight longer than 150 ft?
Decide for yourselves, If there wasn't a distinct advantage, Kawahara wouldn't produce it. People wouldn't be buying it either. If you look at the machining, it is top notch and very intensive. A lot of thought went into this little device. It's not for everybody, everyone has a particular driving style.
#4547
forget all about diff ! only use rear solid axle on foam and front oneway !
#4548
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
#4550
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
I have gone thru 4000+ post on this thread since last August. have you?
#4551
Tech Apprentice
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Last edited by RC; 12-19-2017 at 01:24 PM.
#4552
Tech Master
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
I think it is just your set up or your driving habbit is not suitable to the track you are running that's all!
#4553
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.
HAHAHAHA
do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!
LOL!
HAHAHAHA
do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!
LOL!
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
#4554
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.
HAHAHAHA
do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!
LOL!
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.
HAHAHAHA
do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!
LOL!
#4555
Originally posted by RC
autotr8er:
I was refering to inside wheel spin and the "Negative" diff's lack of mid corner striking power, that is the ability to rapidy change line and accelerate in the middle of a turn (used as a counter move if someone is puttin' a move on you).
With the negative diff, when you change line and punch it, the inside wheel spins before it locks (by design just like a clutch). That little bit of wheel spin (I've found it to be too much) can cost you position in the corner.
It would be better if the clutch engagement was adjustable, but it's not (quikly, or easily).
"Negative" diff; worst $80 I've spent.
If someone thinks the attributes of this diff suits their driving style, email me and I'll sell it to you.
Thanks for the tip on th Active diff up front though.
Anyone tried the TCD gear set?
autotr8er:
I was refering to inside wheel spin and the "Negative" diff's lack of mid corner striking power, that is the ability to rapidy change line and accelerate in the middle of a turn (used as a counter move if someone is puttin' a move on you).
With the negative diff, when you change line and punch it, the inside wheel spins before it locks (by design just like a clutch). That little bit of wheel spin (I've found it to be too much) can cost you position in the corner.
It would be better if the clutch engagement was adjustable, but it's not (quikly, or easily).
"Negative" diff; worst $80 I've spent.
If someone thinks the attributes of this diff suits their driving style, email me and I'll sell it to you.
Thanks for the tip on th Active diff up front though.
Anyone tried the TCD gear set?
#4556
Originally posted by autotr8er
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
Good for you Manticore! But, how big is your track? Is it asphalt? Are you running foams? Do you even read the posts? I'm talking about medium to small tracks. Mainly concrete.
running oneway and soild will not be any problem in small track ..
Manti's track is pretty techincal and tight i.. not big and huge...
I run a soild axle and frnt onway in my car in a track that is like half of manti track...
#4557
Tech Master
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.
HAHAHAHA
do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!
LOL!
DUDE... Manti been around the block more than a FEW TIMES... HE so OLD here he FARTS DUST.
HAHAHAHA
do yourself a favor and read the WHOLE Thread ROOKIE!
LOL!
Last edited by Ah10; 10-08-2002 at 10:11 AM.
#4558
manticore can you post your complete setup for solid rear / front one-way? Mine is fast but I have to pay so much attention to keep the rear from coming around.
#4559
Patella Dragger
Just to inform you and others that are mislead by magazine articles. The term coined by magazines, "rotational mass" is talking about a physics principle called "moment of intertia." Every spinning object has one and varies dependent upon its geometry. I could prove it mathematically but It'd be confusing to all but those that understand physics. The two differentials use the same components inside of them (gears and oil) which makes up the bulk of the mass of the diffs. The differences in the material weight is almost negligible. So the only other weight addition is the clutch mechanism and the weight of the housing. You are looking at a 15% difference in weight, yes. If you are running a 1hp motor the difference in acceleration is so small, you won't notice it. The difference in the amount of power required to turn the negative diff at the same angular acceleration is less that 2%!!!! So, take out the TR, put in a turbo TR and terrorize your local club track.
Just to inform you and others that are mislead by magazine articles. The term coined by magazines, "rotational mass" is talking about a physics principle called "moment of intertia." Every spinning object has one and varies dependent upon its geometry. I could prove it mathematically but It'd be confusing to all but those that understand physics. The two differentials use the same components inside of them (gears and oil) which makes up the bulk of the mass of the diffs. The differences in the material weight is almost negligible. So the only other weight addition is the clutch mechanism and the weight of the housing. You are looking at a 15% difference in weight, yes. If you are running a 1hp motor the difference in acceleration is so small, you won't notice it. The difference in the amount of power required to turn the negative diff at the same angular acceleration is less that 2%!!!! So, take out the TR, put in a turbo TR and terrorize your local club track.
#4560
Originally posted by Manticore
we run the rear solid axle and front oneway on a small and tight technical track.
I have gone thru 4000+ post on this thread since last August. have you?
we run the rear solid axle and front oneway on a small and tight technical track.
I have gone thru 4000+ post on this thread since last August. have you?