Kyosho VoneR Thread
#2866
Originally posted by Manticore
Let me BEAM BEAM my Lo Chan !!
Let me BEAM BEAM my Lo Chan !!
Commander Data's Log, Stardate 200206.03
Trade route of Ekosian foam tire had been badly disrupted by the Ferengis. Supply of Ekosian foam tire is very low in the LA sector. Star Fleet Command estimated the situation would become critical in about six Stardays. Need to establish temporary trade route through the HK quadrant until the normal trade route is restored.
End of Log
#2867
Tech Master
I know this is not the place but the new smilies ROCK
#2868
Tech Master
Originally posted by Data
Commander Data's Log, Stardate 200206.03
Trade route of Ekosian foam tire had been badly disrupted by the Ferengis. Supply of Ekosian foam tire is very low in the LA sector. Star Fleet Command estimated the situation would become critical in about six Stardays. Need to establish temporary trade route through the HK quadrant until the normal trade route is restored.
End of Log
Commander Data's Log, Stardate 200206.03
Trade route of Ekosian foam tire had been badly disrupted by the Ferengis. Supply of Ekosian foam tire is very low in the LA sector. Star Fleet Command estimated the situation would become critical in about six Stardays. Need to establish temporary trade route through the HK quadrant until the normal trade route is restored.
End of Log
#2869
Originally posted by Ah10
What in the world are you talking about?? anyway welcome on board
What in the world are you talking about?? anyway welcome on board
Last edited by Data; 06-04-2002 at 01:39 AM.
#2870
What's the part number for the front shock tower on the VoneR.
Trying to get it from towerHobbies.......... The one with 3 mounting holes.
Thanks
-TG
Trying to get it from towerHobbies.......... The one with 3 mounting holes.
Thanks
-TG
#2872
Originally posted by THeGame
What's the part number for the front shock tower on the VoneR.
Trying to get it from towerHobbies.......... The one with 3 mounting holes.
Thanks
-TG
What's the part number for the front shock tower on the VoneR.
Trying to get it from towerHobbies.......... The one with 3 mounting holes.
Thanks
-TG
the kid
#2873
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by ozzie boy
hey
i got a few qusetions about the v1r
soon i might be selling my ob4 and gettin a v1r
and i wanna keep racing in the pull start class at my club
is there anyway to get a pull start in one? i saw a fella that did it but i cant find the page where he did it
and also what parts seem to break easyest?
thanks
ChriS
hey
i got a few qusetions about the v1r
soon i might be selling my ob4 and gettin a v1r
and i wanna keep racing in the pull start class at my club
is there anyway to get a pull start in one? i saw a fella that did it but i cant find the page where he did it
and also what parts seem to break easyest?
thanks
ChriS
Did you find my posts regarding the pullstart version of the v-one r... The only parts you need to get is some custom shafts that extend the side belt out that extra width of the pull start. I have tried both Alloy (T6) and Mild Steal shafts, the only problem with the mild steal is the extra weight over the standard shafts, but their is other areas you can remove this weight from.... E-mail if you have any further queries.
Manitcore: I have stopped running the pullstart car and gone back to the stock setup as i couldn't get enough speed out of my pullstart engine
My modified Os Cv has been clocked at 65km/hr and i still believe there is room for improvement!
#2874
will the kawahara neg diff fit in the front? I was thinkiing that would turn in like a 1way then you would have full braking also
#2875
Originally posted by nova racer
will the kawahara neg diff fit in the front? I was thinkiing that would turn in like a 1way then you would have full braking also
will the kawahara neg diff fit in the front? I was thinkiing that would turn in like a 1way then you would have full braking also
#2876
Tech Apprentice
Frustrated
I have finally finished building my V1RR GT!
However, i can't seem to get the OS TR (P) started. When i push down on the starter box, the flywheel spins with the pinions etc, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move up and down. I grabbed the allen driver and spun the screw in the end of the pilot shaft, and the piston seemed stuck, and that seems why the starter box couldn't turn it over, cause it just don't have enough grunt. But mind you, the batteries in the box are fully charged, and i think the problem is with the motor setup.
1 thing i didn't do though when building the kit though, in (Step 18) was to ensure there was a space between the flywheel and the motor, when being slid on the pilot shaft. Would this be causing the problem?
Also, when screwing the flywheel nut on the pilot shaft, does this need to have loctite applied? Reason i am asking is because when i took back off the pinions and the like (i.e. reverse step 19), and when i spin the flywheel, the flywheel nut seems to unwind and the whole lot winds off.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated guys
However, i can't seem to get the OS TR (P) started. When i push down on the starter box, the flywheel spins with the pinions etc, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move up and down. I grabbed the allen driver and spun the screw in the end of the pilot shaft, and the piston seemed stuck, and that seems why the starter box couldn't turn it over, cause it just don't have enough grunt. But mind you, the batteries in the box are fully charged, and i think the problem is with the motor setup.
1 thing i didn't do though when building the kit though, in (Step 18) was to ensure there was a space between the flywheel and the motor, when being slid on the pilot shaft. Would this be causing the problem?
Also, when screwing the flywheel nut on the pilot shaft, does this need to have loctite applied? Reason i am asking is because when i took back off the pinions and the like (i.e. reverse step 19), and when i spin the flywheel, the flywheel nut seems to unwind and the whole lot winds off.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated guys
#2877
Well it sounds like you have built the clutch wrong. The centax clutches are kinda tricky to get right first time.
The flywheel must not rub the case for a start. Also the flywheel retaining nut must be very tight and loctited.
If the piston is stuck then just lossen the glow plug a turn and start it, then tighten the glow plug when it starts.
The flywheel must not rub the case for a start. Also the flywheel retaining nut must be very tight and loctited.
If the piston is stuck then just lossen the glow plug a turn and start it, then tighten the glow plug when it starts.
#2879
Re: Frustrated
Originally posted by Glenn
I have finally finished building my V1RR GT!
However, i can't seem to get the OS TR (P) started. When i push down on the starter box, the flywheel spins with the pinions etc, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move up and down. I grabbed the allen driver and spun the screw in the end of the pilot shaft, and the piston seemed stuck, and that seems why the starter box couldn't turn it over, cause it just don't have enough grunt. But mind you, the batteries in the box are fully charged, and i think the problem is with the motor setup.
1 thing i didn't do though when building the kit though, in (Step 18) was to ensure there was a space between the flywheel and the motor, when being slid on the pilot shaft. Would this be causing the problem?
Also, when screwing the flywheel nut on the pilot shaft, does this need to have loctite applied? Reason i am asking is because when i took back off the pinions and the like (i.e. reverse step 19), and when i spin the flywheel, the flywheel nut seems to unwind and the whole lot winds off.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated guys
I have finally finished building my V1RR GT!
However, i can't seem to get the OS TR (P) started. When i push down on the starter box, the flywheel spins with the pinions etc, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move up and down. I grabbed the allen driver and spun the screw in the end of the pilot shaft, and the piston seemed stuck, and that seems why the starter box couldn't turn it over, cause it just don't have enough grunt. But mind you, the batteries in the box are fully charged, and i think the problem is with the motor setup.
1 thing i didn't do though when building the kit though, in (Step 18) was to ensure there was a space between the flywheel and the motor, when being slid on the pilot shaft. Would this be causing the problem?
Also, when screwing the flywheel nut on the pilot shaft, does this need to have loctite applied? Reason i am asking is because when i took back off the pinions and the like (i.e. reverse step 19), and when i spin the flywheel, the flywheel nut seems to unwind and the whole lot winds off.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated guys
1/. check shim between flywheel and engine casing. The manual said you need shim to make sure flywheel wont catch on casing when you tighten the clutch nut.
2/. make sure you shim correctly between the clutch nut and the inner clutch bell bearing. your clutch bell should be able to spin freely (shim until it is just able to spin freely) when you position your engine so that the clutch bell pointing upward. the trust bearing end play plays important adjustment role for engagement point also, you need around 0.3 to 0.5 play between the outter clutch bearing and the trust bearing.
3/. the stock clutch spring is a bit soft with nowaday hi performance engine. It is just fine with OS engine but you need a stiffer clutch spring for novarossi engine. you may use serpent centax clutch spring to increase clutch spring preload.
#2880
hi all
is there any thing i should look out 4 when buying a second hand v1rr
tnx
is there any thing i should look out 4 when buying a second hand v1rr
tnx