Originally Posted by tao3
Hi just to give a insight on the R12 it's ok if you put the slowest motor in but when you ran a top horsepower motor the car is a big dissappointment
1. Chews out the alloy wheel hex's
2. 2nd gear hub is now has so much slop in it it's distroying bearings
3. Front belt turns over (heard of this before happened twice to us on the same day)
4. Distroyed rear wheel bearings
5. Rear diff fence comes off and fray's rear belt
and that was only in 4 qualifer's yesterday and to top it off when my son was
racing for 3rd position in the A final the BRAND NEW (four 5 minute qualifers) front one way diff distroy's itself (I can see why they sell the car with a spool)
Had problems before but nothing this bad and the only reason I could think of is it handle the power of a less horsepower motor but when we switched to a Novarossi the car just fell apart and that is in 5 and 10 minute races what would happen in 20 and 30 minute races that we have for big events
The biggest joke is that I sold his Kyosho VoneRR evo for this and with the Australian National Titles coming up in 3 months I honestly think this was a bad choice
Don't get me wrong Schumacher makes great stuff we run a Cat3000 (2 state titles),Mission with a brushless and a MI2 (4th at state titles) but the R12 Team as a race car against Mugen's and Kyosho's I just don't think it's a wise choice
Well it might be time to think about a different car with the national's coming up something thats more robust than the R12
John and a disappointed 13 year old son
Heres is what my friend Z24 does with his R12 that had those problems.
1) He used epoxy to re-inforce the differential fences so they wouldn't come loose during the races. The epoxy was applied where the fences meet the differential pulley [where the balls are placed].
2) He used aluminum foil in the bottom part of both sides of the differentials so that there wouldnt be any play with both differentials. In other words the aluminum foil was placed below where the ball bearing of the differentials are placed.
3) If you break the rear belt constantly, try adding silicone to the aluminum pulleys so they act like they were plastic. My friend uses alot of braking and if he doesnt use silicone, the belt would break easily.
4) About chewing the alloy wheel hexes I don't know what to say as I havent seen any problems here with that. You can try to tighten more the wheel nut or try to use a different material.
With those fixes you will PROBABLY fix:
1) There wont be any play with the differentials in the front nor back differentials which will help you with the flippling and breaking of the long belt.
2) The differential fences won't come loose.
3) The rear differential ball bearings will probably survive since there is no play with the differential.
4) Won't break the rear belt if you had any problems with it. You probably havent had any since you probably dont use any heavy breaking.
5) Adding the aluminum foil in the differential will prevent the belt from flipping since there wont be any play. I have seen the belt flip at the minimum air time or bump with the car.