Raw40

Thanks tekrsq, is there anyway to clean the plug or is it u/s.

Cartman

OK what you need to do is the same as Mugen Uk, run it in then get some number 6 plugs thats all we use and have no performance problems, when it was running did you keep blipping the throttle to clear the engine??

Raw40

Hi cartman, I'll get some no6 plugs, no I wasn't blipping the throttle would this have made a diffrence?. The motor break instructions say run two tanks of fuel through at idle???.

Cartman

i always blip the throttle as it stops the engine loading with fuel, dont go mad though and if you can keep an air flow over the enginge to keep temp down, its a pain in the ass job but take your time running in. its worth it for a good lifespan my engine has done a year and still performs well.
not sure if you have seen this but look here some good stuff to read.
http://www.jasonjenkins.com/mtx2/

ketchup_gsr

Hey if anyone wants to get rid of their Neg. Diff. I'd be willing to buy it off you. I've been hearing good things about it, and would like to give it a try... So... Anyone interested?

stefan

Does anyone have any real life experience with shock angles.
No wisdom from the manuals please. If you look at the two manuals for the TC3 and the XXX-S, the info is totally contradicting.

Does anyone run stand up shocks on the Mugen?

Due to the lack of time on raceday, I've never really played with shock angles, just ran what most people do, shocks all the way down.

Thanks.

Ah10

Here is a rule of thumb:

Stand up shock position: less body roll, less traction
Lay Down shock position: more body roll, more grip

That's from Serpent X-ray Set up book, pretty good article! you can find it in Serpent X-ray site.

stefan

AH 10 ,
I've read about everything you can find on this topic and the problem is that 10 people (manufacturers) seems to have 10 different opinions.
That's why I asked if anybody has actually tried it.

stefan

Ok, maybe this will make a better question:

What I wanted to achieve is a more responsive car in the tight sections of the track. Quicker left to right transitions..
Here is my current setup:

Front: 600 wt, purple spring, all the way in on top

Rear: 600 wt, purple spring, all the way in on top.

Front one way, rear neg. diff

42/40, 26/30 mm tires.


Car is a bit to sluggish in tight sections (compared to TC3)

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Ah10

I think you might want to try this: like you descripted the car is kind of sluggish, it might be your springs are to soft so body roll is excessive and it doesnt want to change direction as you turn the steering wheels!

Try this, use grey front spring with light blue rear spring, 60wt oil, and if you could use 2 holes piston up front and both front and rear shock position all the way down. you should be able to see a big different!

to be honest with you my front shocks were all the way down since day one and I have played with rear shock position only, and when I have the rear shock stand up and when I do those left then immediately right kind of action I can see the rear end of the car leaning from the very edge of one side to the other! also it is very important to set your rear droop if you are not using inch up tires then set it to 7mm if you are using inchup then 8mm it will help alot too!

nosyajg

iTrader: (11)

hey everyone...i was wondering how (and where) everyone mounted their transponders...i'm trying to decide the best way and the best location to mount one...thanx!

tekrsq

I assume you mean a personal transponder? I have mine secured to the front body mount using one of the screws and some 2 sided tape. Another guy has his taped UNDER the front body mount. he just carved out enough of the foam bumper so the transponder would fit. It's secure and actually looks pretty cool. A couple of other guys have theirs mounted directly in front of the fuel tank. They tell me fuel spillage doesn't seem to hurt it, but I'd rather not take the chance.


ah10-- you got a PM. THANKS BUDDY!!!!!!!!!

RAP66

iTrader: (1)

Fuel wont hurt it...

I too one of my transponders apart, and the case is filled with epoxy. Needless to say I killed a transponder, in the good intentions of "SEEing" what it's made of. All of the chips were cleaned of markings. I do know that it's a micro controller, along with an oscillator. A transmitter if you will.

If anyone is interested I can post pics of it.

OH ya - they say you can replace the wires, because its encased in epoxy, let me say that it's easier said than done.


Rich

Raw40

Has anybody had problems with the silicone connection pipe on the exhaust, ran the car for the first time today at the track. The silicone connector between the manifold and the tuned pipe keeps on poping off the pipe (larger Dia) anybody got any fixes.

Cartman

big cable ties or get an in line pipe