carpet_killa

those pics were for you. thanks alot guys for the info...

tekrsq

Nothing wrong with different opinions, it makes the world more interesting. I have nothing against the lola and other "wedge bodies", just they don't belong on a touring car. I just feel if I wanted to race a wedge, I'd buy a MRX3. And I think the spectators would get bored watching 4 or 5 classes that all look the same. Variety is the spice of life, lol.

Anyway, I run at Hobby Corner on Hull St. I've been to Debbie's a few times a couple of years ago.

RC Nitro

Quote:

I have nothing against the lola and other "wedge bodies", just they don't belong on a touring car. I just feel if I wanted to race a wedge, I'd buy a MRX3. And I think the spectators would get bored watching 4 or 5 classes that all look the same. Variety is the spice of life, lol.

agreed on the varity. Tired of the same old touring cars. Prefer muscle cars, but these bodys do not work well. Tried the vector, to much car for me to be honest

Quote:

Anyway, I run at Hobby Corner on Hull St. I've been to Debbie's a few times a couple of years ago.

Have a good one!

Ah10

You are very welcome! I mean it's sad to know you have to let go of your car!

carpet_killa

hopefully things will pan out soon, but as they say sometimes $h@t happens sometimes...i will be back though....

Ah10

I hope so! hope everything is under control and come back soon!

check on this forum from time to time! stay in touch!

hurhur

any of u have any tricks to repair dented tuned pipes? i only know of the ice expansion technique.....anyone has tried this and have other better methods of doing so?

VinDollar

The ice trick works well for a dent near the stinger and depending on how bad the dent is you may have to repeat more than once to get it back to form. The only down side is that if you get hit more than a couple of times. the technique will expand your diameter of the pipe bigger than it original size.

Tomek

During my 30 minute main I had a problem with my 2nd gear. It would not engage from time to time, the car would just slow down while engine was reving up. What happened and how can I fix it?

Thanks

Manticore

it is due to the failure of your 2speed oneway bearing. Dont ever clean or lube it by all mean. It doesnt require any maintenance at all. If you need to lube it, dont use heavy grease but very thin liquid base lube.

RC Nitro

Can someone enlighten me on the reasons to change the diff oil to heavy/lighter grease. The tracks I am running on are short and tight. I took the oneway out and installed a gear diff with 3000 oil. One of the other racers told me to run 30,000 in the front diff. Will this help me at all and why or why not?
Confused. I realize that the thicker viscosity will resist fluid movement and tend to be stiff.

Thanks

yokomoracer

If your front diff oil is too light, your car will tend to over-steer
and make it harder to control at speed. Using the heavier front diff oil will prevent the over-powering at the rear and make the car more stable ( more under-steer) and therefore easier to drive.

I talked to an ex-designer at Neo Racing and he thinks the rear suspension of MTX-2 makes the car tend to loose its tail or over-steer, and that's way Mugen spec 30,000 front and very light 5000 for the rear, to combat the tendency to over-steer...

Also, the stock rear springs are the softest and the front are the hardest, this dramatic setup is used to compensate having a loose rear end as well.

RC Nitro

Thanks for the info. I will try the 30,000 in the front. Toward the end of the day racing yesterday I was getting loose and it was getting progressivly worse in the main. Lots of oversteer. Thanks again

Manticore

I use a front oneway together with a solid rear axle for a medium but tight in field track. The setup works pretty good !

The setting of the car's performance is not partcularly depends on one or two settings. Try different setup such as shock position, springs, caster/camber etc.

I will not go for 30000 in front if i have to use diff !!

stefan

Guys,

my Kawahara diff locked up on me yesterday. I built it w/o the white plastic washers as people recommended here, instead I used the metal washers from Mugen.

I use white Lithium grease and it feels very smooth.
After it locked up, I worked it a little bit and became free again.

Everybody else had a problem like this?