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Old 02-06-2009, 12:32 PM
  #2596  
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Originally Posted by staikosn1
Ok ill try! I wanted to replace yhe oneway with dif. The dif case with pulley seems to be larger that the space bitween the bulkheads. After 1 hour the dif was placed in bulkheads i couldnt put the carbon for suspensions!
Do you understand now?
When you install the pulley on the front diff. Make sure you are just using the one side and not attaching the plastic belt guide for the other side... That is only to be used for the one way or spool... this should solve your problem with the fitment..
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:33 PM
  #2597  
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Originally Posted by lil-bump
Make sure both bearings are all the way down onto the diff before you place the diff between the front bulkheads. I had the same problem.
This sometimes happens when installing a brand new diff housing.


Pass you soon...
Im sure i placed the dif and bearings correct!!! So lil-bump what i have to do?? I cant place the front bamper stay when i the dif is all way down! the space between the bulkhead is more larger!
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:35 PM
  #2598  
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Originally Posted by staikosn1
Ok ill try! I wanted to replace yhe oneway with dif. The dif case with pulley seems to be larger that the space bitween the bulkheads. After 1 hour the dif was placed in bulkheads i couldnt put the carbon for suspensions!
Do you understand now?
staikosn1,

Let me ask you this: When you built your front diff and put the front pulley onto the diff, did you use the separate ring (part #T0258B) as how you do on a Front one-way?

If your answer to my question is YES, then that is your problem. Take that ring off and it should make the front diff fit right between your your bulkheads.

You SHOULD NOT use that ring on a front Diff. That is why it is separate from the actual front pulley.

Good luck!
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:31 PM
  #2599  
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Originally Posted by Ron C.
staikosn1,

Let me ask you this: When you built your front diff and put the front pulley onto the diff, did you use the separate ring (part #T0258B) as how you do on a Front one-way?

If your answer to my question is YES, then that is your problem. Take that ring off and it should make the front diff fit right between your your bulkheads.

You SHOULD NOT use that ring on a front Diff. That is why it is separate from the actual front pulley.

Good luck!
You are corect Ron C. I didnt even thought about that... Damn.... Thank you Ron C!!!
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:52 PM
  #2600  
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actually, tire wear front vs. rear is something about the overdrive too. So for ex. when you use 24t pully with 1mm split, fronts will wear more than using 2mm split, because its dragging. and you also feel more comfortable with some overdrive at front. so, if you want your front tires to wear more equal to rears;
you can use less split,
use solid at front,
some softer tires at front, or harder at rear. maybe f37 r42. i havent tried this but makes sence since the car has understeer.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:57 PM
  #2601  
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I prefer driving a car with rear tire is rotating faster than front ( kind of 2wd ). I accomplised that by using 24T front side pulley and 20T rear center pulley ( pulled from MRX4 ). I use 40 shore rear and 37 front to minimise the chance of rear tire getting smaller than front's after 30 or 45 minutes final. This is also help to reduce understeering in my car.

In the past, I get sucks driving feeling after 20 minutes driving. I notice the problem when rear tires have same diameter as front's, eventhough I already start with 4mm split.

Last edited by asw7576; 02-06-2009 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 02-06-2009, 11:29 PM
  #2602  
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Originally Posted by musti72
actually, tire wear front vs. rear is something about the overdrive too. So for ex. when you use 24t pully with 1mm split, fronts will wear more than using 2mm split, because its dragging. and you also feel more comfortable with some overdrive at front. so, if you want your front tires to wear more equal to rears;
you can use less split,
use solid at front,
some softer tires at front, or harder at rear. maybe f37 r42. i havent tried this but makes sence since the car has understeer.
This does make alot of sense about the tire compound. But looks like i got conned at a LHS a few days ago. I was adament about getting 37f and 40r.. But the guy insisted it was the other way around. So I thought he knew better since im quite a newbie to this, but it just made basic sense to me, I may have not been with RC's long, but im a huge motorsport fan..

I think I maye just leave on the 40f and get a 42r to match it, and keep the 37r and get another 35f for spares.. I'll practice with the harder ones first..

Thanks all!
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Old 02-07-2009, 01:46 AM
  #2603  
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Originally Posted by xtopher_aaron
This does make alot of sense about the tire compound. But looks like i got conned at a LHS a few days ago. I was adament about getting 37f and 40r.. But the guy insisted it was the other way around. So I thought he knew better since im quite a newbie to this, but it just made basic sense to me, I may have not been with RC's long, but im a huge motorsport fan..

I think I maye just leave on the 40f and get a 42r to match it, and keep the 37r and get another 35f for spares.. I'll practice with the harder ones first..

Thanks all!
Hi..

Dont get fixated on this... different people run different tyres depending on many factors.

Run what you have and see what you think... If you are are inexperienced you probably wont be able to tell much difference and those tyres wont last very long at all anyway... about an hour of running is as much as you can expect.

I would say this however ...

I am sure that you, like most others, will eventually want to run the 24t front pulley.. the most effective way to do this is with a 2.5mm offset.

Save up for a tyre truer, Integy do a manual one which I believe is really cheap in the US (Under $100) It will be one of your best purchases if you get serious.

regards Pip
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Old 02-07-2009, 02:17 PM
  #2604  
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whats the difference in the two Acer bearing kits??? for the mtx4 and R
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Old 02-07-2009, 02:48 PM
  #2605  
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mtx4r-INCLUDES: Four 12 x 18mm bearings
Four 10 x 15mm bearings
Eight 6 x 13mm bearings
Two 5 x 10mm flanged bearings
Seven 5 x 8mm bearings
Two 12 x 5 x 4mm bearings
Four 10 x 6 x 3mm bearings


mtx4-INCLUDES: Four 12 x 18mm bearings
Four 10 x 15mm bearings
Eight 6 x 13mm bearings
Two 5 x 10mm flanged bearings
Seven 5 x 8mm bearings
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Old 02-07-2009, 09:41 PM
  #2606  
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so you get more for your money with the R kit? they are the same price right now
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:54 AM
  #2607  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
so you get more for your money with the R kit? they are the same price right now
They are the same kit check the website ....

http://www.acerracing.com/catalog/Mugen-21-1.html
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Old 02-08-2009, 05:43 PM
  #2608  
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yea i looked at the site, i was finding out why there is a R kit part number and a regular MTX4 kit number.
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:24 PM
  #2609  
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I use the Ceramic Nitride Pro Series on all of my car kits, they are the best on the market. If your not sure about the kit don't think twice, just get them and you want be disappointed!!!
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:53 AM
  #2610  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
yea i looked at the site, i was finding out why there is a R kit part number and a regular MTX4 kit number.
Good point .. maybe it was a marketing thing for when the car was first released or maybe it comes with R decals or something?
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