VA_Racer

iTrader: (21)

Ok this has gone on for a more than a few days now and it's getting kind of old. We all know who this is and should let it go for now. Guy please just chill, your excited about getting on the track and wanna talk some crap, thats fine but atleate wait till after the season starts to see if you can back up what you say. I think it would suck to do all this talking and show up at the track and be humbled. New guys need help as a matter of fact we all need help at some time or another and its easier to get help when your not getting a cold shoulder. This is just my opinion.

xtopher_aaron

Hey guys,

Aside from all the banter talk.. haha.. I was wondering what you guys think about putting on the front diff on my mugen. Im still new to the sport and this is my first car, so im not really sure what to do.

The guys at the 2 LHS's i go to have different opinions. At one store they say that the car really good as it is and not much needs to be done, just removed the lock at the front. The other LHS guys say that getting the front diff is better.

So far, on the wider track (titiwangsa, im from Malaysia if anyone knows that track) weve been using the front lock, and for the tighter track (Glenmarie HPC) we removed the front lock for sharper turns.

Any advice? Thanks!

olev

Front diff is a tuning option worth having. On a wet or just low grip track it is usually the best option.
I personally never run a front one-way, I just can't handle the no-brakes-issue. If not elsewhere, then at least coming to the pits I need brakes

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

What about a high grip track...?

xtopher_aaron

Thanks for the advice guys..

and to ^, I think the issue of having the brakes is the same. If you hit the brakes on any surface, the car is going in circles.

Stopping in the pits shouldnt be too bad, you dont hit the brakes as hard. Unless youre in a race i presume. Then again, looks like the front diff is a good option to have..

So thanks guys!

Ron C.

iTrader: (2)

Hey Aaron,

Our local track just put in a new layout where it became more tight and technical. A lot of fun by the way....

So far using a Front Differential with 100,000 diff oil has been the best way to go for most of us. It eliminated the "push" or "understeer" that a Front Spool gives yet still allowing you to use the brakes, when needed, without upsetting the car.

It sounds like it's worth a try for the Glenmarie HPC track.

gentleman81

iTrader: (2)

i agree with you

-wide open flowing track. one way, but if u need brakes
-little more technical, solid
-very technical, front diff.
-but the front diff can almost be made a solid with thicker fliuds.
driving style will decide it for you.
myself i doubt i will ever go back to a oneway after using the solid

FASASMUGEN

Whats up, just read some of you alls earlier post about the picco.
Just have a couple things to say. I run picco i'm not sponsored i paid 179.00
At 301 raceway, clinton Maryland I run 20.6 - 21.4 lap times. at the capitol classic thats held in June. I put it in the Amain until the last qulifier got bumped out ended up in the Bmain. Not bad for 179.00 motor thats slow

Drive then buy power.

also it could have been the car KYOSHO EVO maybe thats why i can go so fast with this so called slow motor.


Just kidding

gerry



becuase when you drive the best you will be the best!!!!!!!
KYOSHO WHAT!!!!!!!

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

You would have been in the main with a MUGEN......lol

SOLOARTIST 702

come on GERRY im sure CHRIS can get you the part # you know the one i mean T0060

asw7576

Where is hoboshop ??

He has very nice back straight theory to answer this

xtopher_aaron

Hey guys!

You know all those aluminium hop ups for the MTX4r, like those aluminium brake housing, the aluminium pulleys etc etc..

are those really necessary? should i be focusing on certain aluminium hop ups that actually make a difference? what about those stainless steel screws set etc etc..

Thanks guys!

olev

You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

Very true statement some hop ups don't help performance its just eye candy....

asw7576

This is my taste :

Kawahara Aluminium Wheel Hex
Kawahara Rear Stabiliser
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Front Plate
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Back Plate
Mugen Seiki or Tamiya Titanium Screws ( I prefer to use 4mm longer screws for holding plastic parts all together ).