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Mugen MTX-4R

Old 03-30-2008, 07:25 PM
  #1366  
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http://www.nitrokb.com/mtx4/

check all these point out here. i have heard that the 4mm chassis is a good fix also. i just replaced my pinion (metal) gears because they were rounded on the ends.
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:33 PM
  #1367  
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Originally Posted by kanai2racer
Today I stripped a 52T, 3 53T and 2 54T 2nd gears. Please help me with what to look for that might be the cause of this. I replaced several things on the car today and nothing helped.
first replace your 2speed housing if this doesnt solve the issue depnding on how your mid brace is the one over your fly wheel if the screws are lose or stripped out you will have to replace your rear bulk heads. If you want to be sure put your car on the starter box start it & bump the throttle a few times watching your motor to see if it rocks back & forth i assume youve checked your mesh
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:37 AM
  #1368  
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Originally Posted by Canuck
Anyone know how much vertical play is normal in the brake arm ? I must have around 3mm.
A brake caliper has left a groove on your brake cam, thus it is able to lift vertically 3mm. Just replace the brake cam and your problems will be solved.
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Old 03-31-2008, 01:07 AM
  #1369  
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Originally Posted by jfro6512
A brake caliper has left a groove on your brake cam, thus it is able to lift vertically 3mm. Just replace the brake cam and your problems will be solved.


I think the original mtx4's brake shaft has flaw design in regards to the contour of the lower portion of brake pads, so it allows the shaft to move vertically by 3mm or more.

The fix : buy kawahara brake shaft

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Old 03-31-2008, 03:18 PM
  #1370  
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Originally Posted by kanai2racer
Today I stripped a 52T, 3 53T and 2 54T 2nd gears. Please help me with what to look for that might be the cause of this. I replaced several things on the car today and nothing helped.
Set the gear mesh with the brace on.

I followed everything on the NitroKB site and I still stripped second. Then I found out my bulkhead was worn out(screws didn't stay tight). Also check the radio tray brace. The screw hole for the mid brace wears out too. I haven't been stripping gear since I started keeping an eye on these things.
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Old 03-31-2008, 06:07 PM
  #1371  
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Originally Posted by quietstorm76
Set the gear mesh with the brace on.

I followed everything on the NitroKB site and I still stripped second. Then I found out my bulkhead was worn out(screws didn't stay tight). Also check the radio tray brace. The screw hole for the mid brace wears out too. I haven't been stripping gear since I started keeping an eye on these things.
just how i found out
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:47 AM
  #1372  
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oh yeah about stripping gears make sure the throttle servo isnt pulling or pushing the motor back & forth
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Old 04-02-2008, 07:24 AM
  #1373  
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Originally Posted by asw7576


I think the original mtx4's brake shaft has flaw design in regards to the contour of the lower portion of brake pads, so it allows the shaft to move vertically by 3mm or more.

The fix : buy kawahara brake shaft

Thanks for the recommendation !
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:12 PM
  #1374  
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Originally Posted by Canuck
Thanks for the recommendation !
With the Kawahara shaft being stainless steel, as apposed to the mugen aluminium shaft, it should take a lot longer to wear out the bottom lip of the notch!
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:51 AM
  #1375  
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gear mesh-2speed spec'd-screws tight-4mm chassis-alum bracing-worn bearings-bent chassis-thr servo throw-worn pinions, etc etc etc

the mtx4 has a mind of its own when it comes to stripping gears, just spec out your car well, and keep it that way. a little tedious, but it performs when happy
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:44 AM
  #1376  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
gear mesh-2speed spec'd-screws tight-4mm chassis-alum bracing-worn bearings-bent chassis-thr servo throw-worn pinions, etc etc etc

the mtx4 has a mind of its own when it comes to stripping gears, just spec out your car well, and keep it that way. a little tedious, but it performs when happy
what happened ? got another stripping gear again ?
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:19 AM
  #1377  
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I use the 4mm chassis and I run my Mtx 4 since the release of the car ( I am not a hot shot driver) but i only strip 4 or 5 spur gears on all the mtx life with me. in other hand I mave some friends who have this problem. Is this a mistery??? who knows?
Here on Puerto Rico I have 3 friends that runs Kyosho and have the same problem and one is specific strip 2 or 4 on a club race. Don't know the problem's cause but I don't have on my car "thanks to god"
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:18 PM
  #1378  
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What would you guys suggest running for droop front and rear for a high bite fast flowing track? Also how do I measure it since I dont have any droop blocks
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:29 PM
  #1379  
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It has been a while since the Chronic Gear Stripping Syndrome become a topic again

I never strip any 2nd on a bone stock MTX-4 even being minor t-boned and some head on to concrete pole. yes I have a monoblock just for better fit of an engine I used to have. nothing else was added to the car. I am even running the softy 3 racing chassis, no problem

my only trick is the mesh the gear slightly closer but don't interfere with the drive train. DO NOT use the Paper method which you see in many instruction manual. They DON"T work. I suspect they included that method so you strip more gear and bring the manufacturer more profit
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:00 AM
  #1380  
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Originally Posted by Car Breaker
My only trick is the mesh the gear slightly closer but don't interfere with the drive train. DO NOT use the Paper method which you see in many instruction manual. They DON"T work. I suspect they included that method so you strip more gear and bring the manufacturer more profit
yeahh, the paper method sucks, I prefer to remove the 1st gear,then adjust the engine position only with the 2nd, then only with the perfect clearence I install back the 1st gear. posibly thats my scecret or I am a lucky Mugen owner
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