BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

I wish it came with a 4 mm chassis

Then there wouldnt need to be any upgrades.......


Any other upgrades needed? Im getting a list together of what I need to be a nitro tard lol..... It was just to much fun

wallyedmonds

if you like try to get a kanack 4mm chassis but the kawahara is very nice.

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

How much are they?

I need a list of EVERYTHING you guys would do or want

I mean I will get the most important stuff first, But all the little things will get bought eventually......

Top things on the list is the 4R and the MR12 Ninja with the pipe and header

Roger

iTrader: (10)

Everything you need is in the kit. My car is completely stock and so are alot of drivers that use the MTX-4R in our area. Don't worry about what you think you need to be any faster. Your main focus is to get a MTX-4R, build it, and practice, practice, and more practice at your local track ( SpeedWorld ). Once you get familiar with the car and its driving characteristics, then you can make decisions on what to get ( IF NEEDED ). But, truthfully, the car is dialed out of the box.

Car fully rebuilt:

Roger

iTrader: (10)

It's not simple at all if you know what you're doing. I've helped many mugen users in our area about this so called " Issue ". Roenz ( baby serafin ) at VRC raceway stripped afew gears at his track, but after I showed him what was happening and what to do, he hasn't stripped a gear ever since . If you need help, let me know and I can show you. Get you kit first though

asw7576

Mine is bone stock, except : longer titanium screws, front CVD and alluminium lower suspension arm holder ( kawahara ).

Always start with original setup manual as starting point.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Read the "Stripping 2nd gear?" guide at my Web site and you'll be well informed about the issue.

If you take a hard hit, there is always the chance that the engine will move. That applies to any car.

Stripping gears is just a part of life. Everyone has a stripped gear now an then. Screws come loose, things wear, the engine shifts - anything is possible. If you take good car of your car, you reduce your chances for any problems.

On upgrades, Roger is right. You don't need to add anything to the "R" performance wise. You may want to consider getting (1) the original uprights (T0138-B), as the car drives slightly differently than with the newer uprights (T0164), so you can see what works better for your driving style, (2) the one-piece engine mount to reduce your chances of stripping a gear and (3) a front diff to run on tight technical tracks.

Hope this helps.

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

if yours is a "R", just need to build the front Diff, get T0138-B, thick shock tower and one-piece engine mount if you have trouble fitting your engine on stock engine mount like me,

alway mesh the gear slightly tighter, DO NOT use paper method. I run my car for whole year, hitting polls, walls, and have other car hit me at the engine shaft, no problem at all

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

How does the car drive with the different uprights? Is one more agressive on turn in?

Also, anything definite on the 4mm chassis/one piece combo that works and doesn't work?

JayL

completely stock eh Roger, wish my car came with ti scews and rear CF shock tower brace, hehe


Listen to Roger! He got my car shifting perfect as well, never one strip. You might want to look at what engine he runs as well

wallyedmonds

ya its an over priced jp mod im thinking out loud again

wallyedmonds

yes the different uprights make the car turn or corner better depending on the track.
and if you want a non slugy car the 4mm chassis is a must the 1 piece motor mount helps but the chassis is a much better thing.

Roger

iTrader: (10)

Did you ever get the parts I sent to ya ?

Yeah, an overpriced JP that I got practically got for free Im still waiting for my ninja motor Wally .

YBSLOW

iTrader: (9)

Roger you have PM.
Brad

Roger

iTrader: (10)

Thanks. Right back at ya bro.