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Old 03-29-2003, 07:48 PM
  #16  
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the long pipe is for a short track modeller.

and a short pipe a long striaghter track.

short pipe just moves the power up the rev range.
long moves it down the rev range.
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Old 03-29-2003, 07:57 PM
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Default Re: Re: Cutting the header for more top/low end?

Originally posted by tennessee
Is it a 1-piece or 2-piece pipe

What car is it ?

What plug are you using ?

What fuel are you using ?
It doesn't matter, shortening the total exhaust tract length will shift the powerband upwards, regardless of car, plug or fuel type/brand/etc.
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Old 03-29-2003, 08:00 PM
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the rule normally to cutting is to mark out an area about 70ft-80ft long, maybe longer.

time the car going between the 2 marks from a standing start, then cut about 1/8 each run until there is no improvement in time.

if your time goes backwards, pull the exhaust about 1/16 through the coupler and then time again.

repeat until done.
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Old 03-29-2003, 08:28 PM
  #19  
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Why not just have a pipe for long tracks and a pipe for short tracks

Most pipes are 1 piece these days spcificaly designed for long and short tracks

If you need more bottom end you might be able to fix that by adjusting you're clutch, top end change gears

Depending on what motor you run can have an effect on you're pipe choice also

Also engine tuning plays a big part

But hey if you want to goto the track and hack on a header while everyone else is running they're car then have at it
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Old 03-29-2003, 08:34 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Cutting the header for more top/low end?

Originally posted by Old Skool
It doesn't matter, shortening the total exhaust tract length will shift the powerband upwards, regardless of car, plug or fuel type/brand/etc.
Show me
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:54 AM
  #21  
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Originally posted by tennessee
Why not just have a pipe for long tracks and a pipe for short tracks

Most pipes are 1 piece these days spcificaly designed for long and short tracks

If you need more bottom end you might be able to fix that by adjusting you're clutch, top end change gears

Depending on what motor you run can have an effect on you're pipe choice also

Also engine tuning plays a big part

But hey if you want to goto the track and hack on a header while everyone else is running they're car then have at it
I've had a pair of pipes and manifolds before at the track. However, since I race on only one track, it was just 'testing' to see which suited my purposes best.
Also, the length of the pipe/manifold combo is like adjust the midrange needle on a carb, however, it is easier to do. It doesn't do much, but its something to exploit if you have the time. It doesn't affect the car when it first engages the clutch, but it slightly affects acceleration from corners (or however you want it to affect your car).

The advantage between a pretty good length and the perfect length is very minimal, but certain manifolds are plainly too long, and so you have to alter the length in order to have a combo that is 'pretty good'. With one piece pipes, though, they are already 'pretty good' (or quite possibly 'very good') in the respect of their total length.

The reason I stick with two piece exhausts as opposed to one piece units is that I am more comfortable and acclimated to them. I always fear a one piece will pop apart (even though I know it is very unlikely). I feel safer with my 5mm thick coupler and hoseclamps keeping my exhaust system together, then with three springs keeping a onepiece together.
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Old 03-31-2003, 01:08 AM
  #22  
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Are 'inline' pipes more likely to be damaged in a crash than regular pipes due to a (i assume) less flexible join? Also are different brand inline manifolds and pipes compatible with each other?
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Old 03-31-2003, 01:35 AM
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Im2Lazy:
I feel safer with my 5mm thick coupler and hoseclamps keeping my exhaust system together, then with three springs keeping a onepiece together.

WOAH, u got springs holding yours, like i only got a piece of rubber on the exhaust and then over onto the manifold,
now its meant to have cable ties, but the manifold is not flared, and it is no good trying to flare it as it will crack due to the fact it is cast iron,

lol
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Old 03-31-2003, 02:13 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by SHARP
Are 'inline' pipes more likely to be damaged in a crash than regular pipes due to a (i assume) less flexible join? Also are different brand inline manifolds and pipes compatible with each other?
Funny as it seems but from what I have observed, I have personally never seen a car equipped with an inline pipe come into the pits to repair the joint in a middle of a race.

More often than not, cars that I see a lot come in to the pits to repair their pipe joints are cars equipped with the conventional 2 piece pipe join by a silicone coupler...

It's a bitch for the pit guy to try and get the pipes to join properly again because the pipes are damn hot to handle to begin with. It is almost certain that you'll be out of contention if you happen to run a 5 minute heat...
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