Xray NT1
#4801
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Quick question guys... How do you measure your front/rear width with a caliper. I have a big one that measures up to 212mm, but I do not know if I should measure it on the lowest part of the tire, on the rear where the toe is taken into consideration, or on the middle where the nut is.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
But the best is the Hudy all in one setup which I currently have, makes it very easy to set trackwidth right to 200mm.
#4802
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Quick question guys... How do you measure your front/rear width with a caliper. I have a big one that measures up to 212mm, but I do not know if I should measure it on the lowest part of the tire, on the rear where the toe is taken into consideration, or on the middle where the nut is.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
#4804
Normally I measure car track width at the bottom of tires, 6 o'clock position, 200mm rear, 198mm front.
However, in some strict official races, I use 199mm track width ( because the officials use 200mm width template, and rear tires at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position usually won't fit into 200mm width template ).
However, in some strict official races, I use 199mm track width ( because the officials use 200mm width template, and rear tires at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position usually won't fit into 200mm width template ).
#4805
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
Oil Diff conversion rate?
Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???
Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.
Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???
Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.
Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
#4806
For those who want to put some weight at the lowest part of the car;
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/caprico...nt/#more-27932
It also helps cooling the engine.
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/caprico...nt/#more-27932
It also helps cooling the engine.
#4807
For those who want to put some weight at the lowest part of the car;
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/caprico...nt/#more-27932
It also helps cooling the engine.
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/caprico...nt/#more-27932
It also helps cooling the engine.
#4809
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Oil Diff conversion rate?
Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???
Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.
Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???
Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.
Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
#4810
The real interesting stuff is coming in march...
Im planning to do a big comparison between Lab-c01 and nt1 parts' weight, as well as building review with a track test.
#4812
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Well, I redid all the electronics today.
Kind of pleased how it turned out.
Only don't like the wiring of the balancer, but is was the only way to mount it on the rightside of the car.
Still have to make a carbonfiber shield which will be attached to the bottom of the receiver to protect the wiring.
Last year I ran the car without it but had some slight scuff marks on the wiring.
I'm also working on some other stuff I saw on the new MRX-5, currently doing some calculations and sketching in Cad. Hoping to have it made in the weekend.
Also really making progress on my own 1/10 car design.
Planning to use the NT1 (or Lab-C01) driveline and wishbones and uprights.
All the other stuff will be new and quite different.
Maybe I will post some renders this week when I finally get solidworks to work in a Mac.
Kind of pleased how it turned out.
Only don't like the wiring of the balancer, but is was the only way to mount it on the rightside of the car.
Still have to make a carbonfiber shield which will be attached to the bottom of the receiver to protect the wiring.
Last year I ran the car without it but had some slight scuff marks on the wiring.
I'm also working on some other stuff I saw on the new MRX-5, currently doing some calculations and sketching in Cad. Hoping to have it made in the weekend.
Also really making progress on my own 1/10 car design.
Planning to use the NT1 (or Lab-C01) driveline and wishbones and uprights.
All the other stuff will be new and quite different.
Maybe I will post some renders this week when I finally get solidworks to work in a Mac.
#4814
Well, I redid all the electronics today.
Kind of pleased how it turned out.
Only don't like the wiring of the balancer, but is was the only way to mount it on the rightside of the car.
Still have to make a carbonfiber shield which will be attached to the bottom of the receiver to protect the wiring.
Last year I ran the car without it but had some slight scuff marks on the wiring.
I'm also working on some other stuff I saw on the new MRX-5, currently doing some calculations and sketching in Cad. Hoping to have it made in the weekend.
Also really making progress on my own 1/10 car design.
Planning to use the NT1 (or Lab-C01) driveline and wishbones and uprights.
All the other stuff will be new and quite different.
Maybe I will post some renders this week when I finally get solidworks to work in a Mac.
Kind of pleased how it turned out.
Only don't like the wiring of the balancer, but is was the only way to mount it on the rightside of the car.
Still have to make a carbonfiber shield which will be attached to the bottom of the receiver to protect the wiring.
Last year I ran the car without it but had some slight scuff marks on the wiring.
I'm also working on some other stuff I saw on the new MRX-5, currently doing some calculations and sketching in Cad. Hoping to have it made in the weekend.
Also really making progress on my own 1/10 car design.
Planning to use the NT1 (or Lab-C01) driveline and wishbones and uprights.
All the other stuff will be new and quite different.
Maybe I will post some renders this week when I finally get solidworks to work in a Mac.
Btw, don't you worry someone might t-bone you from radio side ? ( I see you dont use the radio box ).
Last edited by asw7576; 02-10-2010 at 10:38 PM.
#4815
Tech Adept
Personal Transponder Mounting
DS Motorsport, really not the best way to mount your PT. It should be mounted horizontaly, there's a distinct possibility that you will get missed counts.